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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Revisiting basic transmission upgrades

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 2nd gen driveline into 1st gen

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Eventually, I plan on ending up with a full aftermarket transmission, but sticker shock is really getting to me, so I plan on doing some basic upgrades in the meentime.



Again, I'm not going to name names.



There are three specific things I'm looking for:

•Slightly better power handling

•Quicker, more positive shifts

•No more freewheeling when I let off the throttle



I've been told that a shift kit would get me the firmer shifts and better power handling, and that one of the aftermarket transmission control boxes would get rid of the freewheeling.



Do you guys agree with that?



I've been told that Trans Go shift kits are about as good as you can get... should I go with one of there units? Are there different types of kits or only one?



Typically, what kind of HP can the 47RE handle after a shift kit is installed? I'm hoping 300-350hp? That is my short term HP goal.
 
Chris,

Theres no substitute for an afternarket trans. A VB would be first IMO if you can't afford to do the trans at this time. I'm running one of Bills transmissions without the Billets (Just didn't have enough $$) & he doesn't recommend using any type of lockup device without the Billets... (Hub & Input Shaft)

300-350HP is like an EZ & DD II's +-... ... That might be a bit much for the trans. My brother in law was running an EZ & DD I's & was slipping his Torque Converter. Not sure what you gain with A Shift Kit but without increased line pressure (VB) as a minimum I think your gonna be SOL... . Just my 00. 2.



Good Luck!

Clay
 
No doubt, the aftermarket transmission is the way to go, and I do plan on getting one within a couple of years... but I was just hoping that I could find some simple upgrades I could do now so I can put a few more HP down without breaking the bank.
 
Check DDT, Bill Sites has instructions for raising the tranmission pressure, 3 turns maximum from stock. As I reacall about 10 psi. After you do that you have a good idea what the transmission looks like inside, then when you can afford it you can go with a upgrade Valve Body (VB).



JB
 
Trans

Chris,

Talk to Rip or Bob W. & see if they have a used EZ you could pick up reasonably. Also, ELI of the NW Bombers had a used VA Box for sale some time ago that may still be available.

Believe me when I say "I feel your pain"!! Paying for an AfterMarket Trans is a PAINFUL thing! When you do upgrade your transmission though, do it right! FULL BILLETS... . (Minimum Hub & Input Shaft) That way you can SAFELY install a Smart Controller & Exhaust Brake.

I only wish I would have had the extra money to do it all at once. I'll have to pay the additional R&R charge to have them installed when I can afford it.



Clay :{ :{
 
When I was in the same place I went with a DTT vb. It worked out well. It also stoped my slipeing for 60k or so. A smart controler would stop the freewheeling but if you use any device to do so may brake the stock input shaft. I have even broke a early billet shaft. Anyone that uses a lockup device and gets away with it is lucky. How lucky do you feel? You could just use a mystery switch but it is hard on the trans and may brake a shaft.
 
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I don't feel very lucky at all since the ATS TransCommand and PAC Brake tore my input shaft in two. Nobody said nuttin bout any shafts when they did my transmission. . . but were happy to take $1,700 for fixing it within a very limited number of miles. This is my cheap fix. . . rebuilding my brand new Cummins engine was my expensive fix. And now I'm having trouble with the transmission again. I logged every mile the rebuild transmission ran, can prove it didn't have 50,000 miles, truck sat in shop while I ran another to squirrel money away to fix the Ram engine. Warranty wasn't worth the paper it's written on in my case. Buyer beware. Will probably throw it away and see what Bill has to offer that works since I've had such a bad experience with this one.



Cheers,

OTRPU
 
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a Transgo kit will work wonders. It also increases line pressure to the locking converter. Stops converter drain back, (quicker restarts and go) provides for pump to work while in park. quickens shifts, firms up shifts . Allows you do hold any gear at any speed up or down. Best thing you can do for a torqueflite. I am also using Valvoline Max life fluid.



Got mine on ebay. TFOD/HD2 kit or summitracing 518/tfod has a vhs with it. (don't let 518 put you off. I called transgo, and that is the name)
 
hey robert

I also bought a transgo kit for my 98. 5 but have yet to put it in.

did you install yours and what size of holes did you put in the vb

the instructions give you a range but were a little vague on just what you will get at a certin size. I want a good firm shift but i dont want my head launched into the back seat. thanks Dirk



98. 5 CTD Black /Black 4x4 285/75/16 with some goodies
 
I did mine. These OD torqueflites now has a 3 piece valve body. sheesh. Makes putting the park rod eclip back in almost impossible. My 18 year old son had to do it as he has slender arm and small hands. It's a time consuming job, but worth it. It took me about 9 hours. end to end.



that hole in the cover for the line pressure I divided the baby. did a mid range hole.

without checking line pressure with a gauge, I just opted for a little bit more. I really need to put a gauge on it.



This kit is not like the old B&M shift kit. Not nearly so harsh, and none of the harsh engagement that occurred if you backed off the accelerator prior to a shift. They know this is shifting a 3 tone truck.
 
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