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Right Brake Pull.......possible fix

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Let me start by saying my brakes didn't start pulling badly to the right until 36,000 miles.
I do a lot of off roading and had just returned from a trip from Southern Nevada to the cold Northwest on very dirty, icy, filthy roads. I figured things had to be grimy before I started tinkering. Also from other post, I figured replacing a bunch of parts was not the answer, besides my warranty is gone. I figured something happened to cause the problem.
I took the calipers off and noticed the mounting bolts were dirty and the bushings had fairly deep scoring on them. I cleaned ‘em up and smoothed the scars with 320 wet/dry sand paper. I packed as much grease under the bushing as I could. The bore and rubber sleeve the mounting bolts go into were also gummed up. I cleaned and greased them. I haven't figured out why the metal bushings (on the Allen bolts) could be scarred so bad when riding in a rubber bushing? Dirt, I guess. I cleaned up the calipers and remounted them with out the pads to see if they would slide proper. At this time I noticed they had rub marks where they ride close to the mounting arm. The machining on these calipers is really crude so I used some 320 grit wet/dry and cleaned ‘em up. Good, now they slide easily, even when a lot of upward pressure is put on them. The manual says to put some grease here but I didn't. It seems the mounting bolts, bushing and rubber sleeve have lots of "give" and will easily allow the calipers to rub on the mounting arm. I swapped pads (right on left and left on right) and put it back together. NO PULL! I can let go of the wheel and it stops straight and true... ..... It's fun to drive again.
I think a combination of dirt, too loose tolerances in the mounting bolts and rubber bushing and very poor machining on the calipers combine to make for a sticky set up. Possibly as the brakes are applied, the rotor forces the caliper up into the mounting bracket, and with the poor machining the calipers bind on the bracket before the calipers can slide to exert equal pressure on both pads? Maybe it was just swapping pads? I don't know but it worked for me. It may be temporary but so far I am a Happy Camper!
Ron




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'99 Quad long bed, emerald green/driftwood, 4x4, 5speed, 3. 55 limslip, Rancho 9000/remote adjuster
Boulder City, Nevada
 
After over 25yrs of working on cars for a living,the one thing Ive learned is that the simple things can hurt you. A tech can spend hours looking for a major cause to a problem and overlook the small things. You have found a small but one of the major cause for brake wear-dirty brakes. This may not be a cure all but it is another thing that needs to be looked at when diagnosing a brake problem. By the way ,I dont think it gets that cold here in the Northwest at least in western Oregon.

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1999 2500 Cummins w/4spd auto,Quad Cab,SWB,4x4,Flame red ,all options less leather and radio controls on steering wheel,OEM color matched runningboards,DeeZee bedrails painted black,Power Vision Mirrors,OEM ventshades,Oem sill covers,OEM underrail bedliner
 
Ron,
I hope the grease you used to lubricate those caliper slides was a silicon based product. Normal bearing grease cannot hold up to the heat the brakes will produce. I cannot explain it, but I have swapped brake pads from side to side many times to resolve brake pull issues. It usually works!
Regards,

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98 SWB QC ISB A/T Metallic Red w/ tan cloth interior, 275 h. p. injectors, Monroe Gas Magnums, Armor Tuff spray in bed liner, Goodyear Wrangler ATS 285/75r/16.
 
I did the exact same thing to solve my pulling to the right problem, (cleaned everything up and, unstuck the caliper etc). I suspect swapping pads from right to left would also solve the problem because you are knocking the calipers loose in the process??
 
Ram-Kowboy,
I used some high heat industrial lube I got from work. I hope it holds up OK... ... .
Fitz,
These calipers are just plain crap. The only thing good about them is how easy they come off and the pads come off them.
Did you clean up the rough machining on the calipers? I am convinced this contributes to the problem. In fact I am convinced the calipers are causing most brake problems we hear about. Why do some guys get over 70K and some only 20K on a set of pads? Some have problems with pull from the get go and some develop with time and dirt? I think these suckers are constantly hanging up for a combination of reasons.
I am reluctant to post that my mileage has gone up 1+ mpg since I cleaned up the brakes as this sound rediculous, even to me. I use my truck a lot on a 45 mile round trip and the computer always sits at 17. 2 mpg (+or- . 01) all of a sudden it is climbing and now at 18. 2. Why? Hell, I don't know, I have over 37K on it and mileage has been consistant since 20K. Are sticky brakes contributing to some folks poor mileage? Who knows?
Ron


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'99 Quad long bed, emerald green/driftwood, 4x4, 5speed, 3. 55 limslip, Rancho 9000/remote adjuster
Boulder City, Nevada
 
Ron- When you say changing pad from Right to Left, can I assume you mean from the outside to the inside and visa versa on the same wheel? I have 31K and I have a little pull to the right.

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98 24V QC, AT 4wd,4:10 LSD,Driftwood w/leather. Boost, Pyro and Trans temp gauges. X-Line Bed liner. TC lockup switch.
 
Dusky,
No, they don't work that way. Put the right set on the left wheel and the left set on the right wheel.
As Fitz says, the trick may be in knocking the calipers loose. After taking the calipers off the rotor and removing the pads you have to open the caliper piston to get the assembly back on. I use a C clamp.
Good Luck,
Ron
 
My 99QC 4X4 came with brake pull to the right. My dealer refused to deliver untill they completed a very comprehensive DC mandated brake system check list with some special DC guages and specifications. After four hours and a new pad set, the truck stopped straight and well, and has since (4500 miles). If anyone is still experiencing the problem, could it be that the dealer is not aware of this document? I can get the document number tomorrow if it will help, or you can call Valley Dodge in Helena Montana at 406-442-9994, ask for Ron or Howard in service. Great people to deal with!
Peg Leg
Still dancin' and Dodgein'


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Pegleg
 
Ron-When I changed the brake pads on my 94 last summer I noticed that the silicone grease had become the consistancy of tar. Some cleaning and relubing helped brake performance considerably. This may be something to add to a maintainance schedule.
 
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