Rims

[GSP7]

Is this where you talk about Rims and tires?

I might get different later at tire buying time rims for my newest CTD Its got OE 2015 (I think) 18" rims on my 05.

I might go back to 17" because 18" tires cost alot more

Kinda like the Raceline Monster and then Raceline #888, 8 lug, but I dont need bead lock, Or Method 315 0r 305 .

 

[AH64ID]

You will likely find the 17” tires are limited in load capacity to 3195#, it may or may not be an issue for you.

Personally, I’d stick to 18’s. I’ve been much happier with 18’s (20’s too) than I ever was with 17’s.

 

[SnoKing]

You will likely find the 17” tires are limited in load capacity to 3195#, it may or not be an issue for you.

17" tires, the unwanted stepchild of modern tire line ups.

 

[GSP7]

17" tires, the unwanted stepchild of modern tire line ups.

???


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[Cummins12V98]

???


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LOW capacity tires!!!

 

[GrantP]

I think you'll be upside down for a long time if you buy new wheels to save a few bucks on tires. You may be able to pick up the OEM 17" aluminum wheels for much less. They are high quality and fit perfectly.

 

[Ozymandias]

Same here, switched from 17" to 18" because of the tires.

 

[GSP7]

Ive never had 17" rims. I have 16" with E rated tires on my '99 and '81 old trucks.

My 2005 came with 17" but it had 2015 18" OE rims on it when I bought it couple months ago

Never heard such a thing that 17" tires dont come in E rating 10 ply just like 16" or 18"

Just did a compare on 16"17'18" toyo AT III, Yes the 17" are a bit less weight max lb. load


16" 285/75/16 are E- 3750lb-

17" 285/75/17 are E- 3195lb-

18" 275/70/18 E 33.2" 11.0 -3640 lb -- on my new 2005-- less max than my 16"s
18" 285/70/18 E 33.7" 11.5 -3860 lb
18" 285/75/18 E 34.8" 11.3 -4080 lb

Slit different size ratings and max weight vary in each catagory 16, 17, 18

What size and brand tires are you-all running?----- ?

My '99 diesel I have Toyo AT ll, 33"- 285/75/17- E -3750 lb
Id go almost got Coopers, reviews said Toyos were little better ride, plus I know Toyos are excellent tires, have had Toyo on my other truck
My '05 came with Mickey Thompsons



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[Ozymandias]

These ABC... Ratings are outdated, what you are looking for is LI and the 17" are limited to 121 except some old tire models that have been grandfatherd in with at the highest a 125.
The 18" in the same size come with a 129 Index.

 

[GSP7]

ABC ratings? outdated? Geeeze ! always got to argue?

The same, "ABC Rating", (E) Max weight(lb) and tire size, are molded right into the side wall of the tire..

 

[Ozymandias]

Yes but every of these letters have at least 5 different LI in them and that's quite a difference then.
That's why these ABC ratings have been retired and replaced with the LI. Only reason why they are still on the sidewall is because they once made it mandatory. Like the R for Radial which is actually obsolete to except for some very special tires. Let's move on...

I had good results with NITTO tires, a brand from Toyo but more affordable.

 

[BigPapa]

ABC ratings? outdated? Geeeze ! always got to argue?

Ozy’s correct. Go to any tire website and look at the specs. Very few still list a C, D, or E load rating, they all list the Load Index number.

Seems you’re the one arguing.

 

[AH64ID]

ABC ratings? outdated? Geeeze ! always got to argue?

The same, "ABC Rating", (E) Max weight(lb) and tire size, are molded right into the side wall of the tire..

Yes they are still there, but as your data shows the load resting really tell the whole story. Load Index is the most important number.

To meet the OEM rating you need a LI of 121, but I have found that these trucks are better suited with a LI of 125, or higher.

Many years ago I bought a set of 19.5” rims and LRG LI 133 tires. They were great, but had 18’s been more popular I would have done just as good with 18’s and softer riding tires for what I did. 18’s are fantastic at supporting weight, and that’s what I’d stick to.

A quick search of 285’s showed that the 18’s were about $30/tire more, which isn’t bad and well worth it.

 

[slowmover]

Yes but every of these letters have at least 5 different LI in them and that's quite a difference then.
That's why these ABC ratings have been retired and replaced with the LI. Only reason why they are still on the sidewall is because they once made it mandatory. Like the R for Radial which is actually obsolete to except for some very special tires. Let's move on...

I had good results with NITTO tires, a brand from Toyo but more affordable.

L-I is just the way things are.

I run 17’s, but switched to a “commercial service” designated tire versus the shortbed Home Depot Daddy softer choices. Both of which have same L-I, but one is for heavily-laden most of the time versus being loaded heavy only on occasion.

Tires are not a simple subject.

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[Regcabguy]

Is this where you talk about Rims and tires?

I might get different later at tire buying time rims for my newest CTD Its got OE 2015 (I think) 18" rims on my 05.

I might go back to 17" because 18" tires cost alot more

Kinda like the Raceline Monster and then Raceline #888, 8 lug, but I dont need bead lock, Or Method 315 0r 305 .

You have the best rims money can buy. As mentioned the 18's have a much higher payload capacity. I have CJC Ram specific machined rims. The finish is coming off after 18 months. I never should have sold the OEM forged alloys.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Not that im cheap but im not a vain man and I do love a nice used tire and wheel set (take offs) for my 2500. If you just care about the rubber you could just get a take off set from marketplace. Plenty of people ditch the factory wheels and tires on pickups as soon as they get them home from the dealership and put a lift with aftermarket wheels on.

On the topic of fitment, majority of the take offs come on OEM wheels from 17" -20", its almost a sure bet they'll fit provided you don't have locking hubs on the front axle (if you're looking at the 20s or later model 18s).

After you're done with a set you could sell the wheels afterwards, I've done this a few times. Bought an aftermarket wheel set for my '91 accord with two new tires for $280, swapped the tires to my factory wheels and then sold the aftermarket set for $400. Seller didn't know what he had "they're wide, good tires, came off my accord"

I've got an 18" OEM steelie set with Transforces ($120) stashed away in my garage waiting until I finish the Toyo and Kenda set I'm currently running.

Just food for thought.

 

[Regcabguy]

ABC ratings? outdated? Geeeze ! always got to argue?

The same, "ABC Rating", (E) Max weight(lb) and tire size, are molded right into the side wall of the tire..

Keep the 18's. With my former 2200# popup Northstar camper and 285-75-17 Toyo AT's I still had sidewall squirm at 80 psi and every psi below that. I drove my friend's similar setup with some recently acquired OEM 18's and the same tire in an 18 and it was rock solid. I had a Hellwig swaybar,Kings and Carli airbags too.

 

[AH64ID]

Keep the 18's. With my former 2200# popup Northstar camper and 285-75-17 Toyo AT's I still had sidewall squirm at 80 psi and every psi below that. I drove my friend's similar setup with some recently acquired OEM 18's and the same tire in an 18 and it was rock solid. I had a Hellwig swaybar,Kings and Carli airbags too.

Agree 100%.

If I had known how much better 18’s were than 17’s I would have skipped my 19.5 phase. The 19.5’s were awesome, but not enough better than 18’s to justify the cons.

 

[Matt42]

Not that im cheap but im not a vain man and I do love a nice used tire and wheel set (take offs) for my 2500.

I've got an 18" OEM steelie set with Transforces ($120) stashed away in my garage waiting until I finish the Toyo and Kenda set I'm currently running.

Just food for thought.

How well are the Kenda tires working out for you? I need to buy tires soon. . . .

 

[Darkbloodmon]

How well are the Kenda tires working out for you? I need to buy tires soon. . . .

The Kenda's are the Klever MT KR29s, They were practically new when I got them and being a soft compound MT tire they had a lot of tread flex at operating temperature. This stopped a while ago, They run pretty well and grip nicely for this model.

I run the Kenda MT's on the rear axle at 45 psi and the Toyo Open Country AT's on the front axle at 55psi.

I'm not hitting the highest fuel economy numbers I could be with MT's and AT's but it was a good deal and I fill up the next state over where its cheaper. If you want to stay decent with mpgs I recommend sticking with HT tires.

Majority of the 2500 and 3500 take offs will be Transforce's which are solid tires through and through. I used to work for Bridgestone RSO a while back in college and Transforce's were the best selling tire for anything needing to move weight, the Bridgestone Dueler HT's were the top of the top but the price point pushed alot of people away from already expensive tires given the vehicle weight requirements.

I just took a quick glance on tires easy and boy..... rubber has gotten expensive. I'd be hard-pressed to recommend a decent brand by price point alone.

If you've got the time to browse try taking note of the tread pattern design on the higher priced brand models, Bridgestone, Michelin, Yokohama, Toyo, etc. and then finding a cheaper tire brand with a model that mimics that pattern with a comparable/"relative" mileage warranty.

Just in my quick search on tires easy I saw about 3 different brands with tires modeled off of a Michelin Defender LTX tread pattern.