Ring Break in Procedure...

[jelag]

So I'm looking at the break in procedure for new rings... and the package says to not idle the engine for over 5 min at any one time in the first 200 miles.... and to run the engine at 75-100% load for the first 75-100 miles and not to exceed 2000 rpm.... so I interpret that, if I tow, to connect a trailer and tow for those miles...

On the other hand the break in procedure for the cam shaft is almost the opposite, making sure that cam lube is used and of course to prime the oil system before the first start up... and then to not excessively load the engine but to run it through the rpm range....

Honestly I understand the idle issue.... and I understand the excessive rpm.. and it makes sense to me to run the engine through the rpm range... its doesn't make sense to load the engine for the first 100 miles to break in the rings....

I would be interesting to hear your thoughts...

 

[GCroyle]

Jim,

Whatcha working on? Thought you was fishing.

Still paying for your goofing off time.

Gary

 

[jelag]

Gary...

got my 5.9 apart... broken rings on 4 cylinders... I guess that I drove it like I stole it too many times... smile...

I've been out on the side by side in the desert.. just turned 400 miles this winter... not bad for an old guy spending all that money you pay into social security...

 

[JJPage]

Gary...

got my 5.9 apart... broken rings on 4 cylinders...

Wow, who would have thought...This was the problem the whole time?

 

[jelag]

JJPage

Had we rolled the engine in Spokane we would have seen the damage.... I just assumed that it had been done... I can't believe I didn't do it myself....

 

[GCroyle]

Jim,

Guess I missed the part about the symptoms and how your foot ? played a part in this project. Different thread?

 

[Bob V]

here is my opinion. For the most part, the cam brake in is when you first start it and before you drive it. The ring brake in is after the cam brake in and the first drive.

 

[Motorhead]

My ring break in procedure is to drive it moderately, accelerating and decelerating and not running constant speed. when I roll on the power, I roll it on at not too much more than 2/3rds throttle but don't baby it either.

 

[AH64ID]

I was told to vary the rpms lots during the first 500 miles, otherwise drive it normal. I have about 1500 miles on the motor now.

 

[JR]

Hey Jim,
How do you prime an engine with a gear driven oil pump? Just by cranking with a relay pulled to prevent it from starting?

 

[NIsaacs]

Maybe a remote system?

Nick

 

[sag2]

I think your getting a little too worried about the first start. As long as you used assembly lube you can't protect it much better than that. Pressurizing it is not going to spray it on the cam lobes like running the engine. The factory doesn't worry about it, they just start them and go. They still last hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

[BDaugherty]

Main concern will be cam break in. Use plenty of assembly lube and either break in oil or zddp addative in the oil. Keeping the rpms up help maintain plenty of oil pressure and lets the lifter seat to its lobe. The rings will be fine if you just follow their break in after the cam. Ive never seens any rings break after a rebuild but there are plenty of cams that dont make it.

 

[AH64ID]

I think your getting a little too worried about the first start. As long as you used assembly lube you can't protect it much better than that. Pressurizing it is not going to spray it on the cam lobes like running the engine. The factory doesn't worry about it, they just start them and go. They still last hundreds of thousands of miles.

Agree, there should be assembley lube everywhere and oil pressure still builds fast.

Do a quick idle to check for big leaks and proper pressure and roll into the cam break in.

Don't forget the ZDDP for at least a few oil changes if your using CJ oil.

 

[Shamp]

I work in a case tractor dealership. After I rebuild, resleeve or install a reman engine, the tractor gets an oil pressure check with a gauge off the oil galley and goes straight onto the dyno. By the time it is hooked up to the dyno that is the first 5 minutes of warming up. Next I run it about 30% load for 5 minutes or so to warm up. Next is about 75% or 5 minutes or so and then 100% load for about an hour. I know tractors are not trucks and are much easier to dyno because my dyno is driven off the pto, but the principal is the same. You warm it up a little and then load it as much as you can. Often I use cardboard in front of the radiator to help it heat up faster. All tractor services manuals and instructions that come with reman engines are essentially the same specs for breaking in an engine. Most every engine I do is a straight 6 diesel and a lot are cummins 5.9 and 8.3. Engineers change year to year and change run in procedures because an engineers job is to change things wither it needs it or not or they wouldn't have a job. But a diesel is a diesel and the ring/cylinder wall principals will never change. If you want a good seat you have to run it hard and load it. For most diesels that will be its last time it is actually used to its full potential ever again. To prelube the engine just crank the engine with the fuel shutoff unless you have the ability to pressure lube through the oil galley. If you don't already have a lube set up, then it is not worth your time so just use the crank method. Don't put your rings in upside down and don't line up your ring gaps. And not exceeding 2000 rpms is nonsense my engines get ran at rated rpm. I understand the optimal break in procedure will be hard to achieve with a pickup, but that how it is done in my industry and its principals still apply. Now you just have to figure out what to haul and where to haul it.

 

[RVTRKN]

Good wisdom there, back in the day when I assisted in rebuilding gas engines, it was common practice to use a heavy lube, don't remember the name, but it was used to thicken up oil on weak engines with loose rings. Everything was coated with that additive as thick as honey (thats what it really was) and then start the engine with the valve covers off proving oil pressure at the rockers then would adjust them for sound at the hydraulic lifters. Then the normal process of breaking in a new engine, never drone a rebuild and never exceed 3/4 power until the first 500 miles, and at 1500 miles change the oil.

Of coarse that was almost 40 years ago. :-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf:-laf