Rip Rook exhaust w/ long turbine housing

[dshockley]

I am getting ready to order a 14cm2 exhaust housing, a banks intercooler, and was hoping to use Rip Rook's exhaust. Has anyone used this exhaust with a exhaust housing with the extension. I emailed Rip and he could not provide clear guidance (though he was very helpful with my other questions). Just so I am clear here is what I plan:



-gauges(pryo, boost, trans temp, tach)

-pump(more fuel, more rpm)

-exhaust

-14cm2 non-wastegated housing

-k and n filter

-banks intercooler



Any comments?



Just as an aside, currently there is a long dwell at the 1-2 shift point. What is going on?



Thanks for your input.

Dan

 

[Philip]

A long dwell in the 1 to 2 shift is a band out of adjustment most of the time. The second gear band adjustment is done from out side of the case. It is located just in front of the shift linkage on the trans. Break the lock nut loose. Turn in the stud till it bottoms out. Apply 15 inch pounds of torque to the stud. The back the stud out 3 turns. Retighten the lock nut down with out turning the stud.



The reverse/ (manual first) band is located inside the trans pan. The same spec's are used for the adjustment of it. It sounds like its time for a full trans service.



My truck has all stock exhaust. So I can't help you on the other goodies. I am thinking about a 14 cm2 housing for mine.

 

[Old Smoky]

Rip and I installed his exhaust on my rig a while ago. The downpipe is 3", and the exhaust is 4", so you can slide the downpipe in as far as you will need to. It looks like with the longer housing the downpipe will have to be up against the black cover on the firewall. I’m sure that it would get hot and melt if they touch. Maybe some high temp insulation would do the trick? I don’t know if the downpipe hanger will be in the correct location after the pipe has been pushed back. You may need to modify the hanger for it to work. Let us know how it turns out.



Mike

 

[hdm48]

No disrespect to Philip but, the K/D band (2nd gear) should be set useing a 5/16" spacer placed between the K/D piston and the lever. Bring the adjuster bolt to zero with the spacer in place and lock it down. This needs to be done with the pan OFF. Remember to remove the spacer when your done. The line pressure needs to be checked at this time also. You need to locate the line pressure adjuster for this one. Set it at 1. 250" measuring from the inside of the spring plate. If your not sure where this stuff is, talk to a transmission shop and I'm sure they will show you it in a manual. Then adjust your K/D cable. Have someone hold the throttle to the floor(engine off) and bring the cable adjuster up till it just stops against the throttle.

I'm not sure I'm being clear enough on this. If I'm not, I'll try to be clearer next time.

And since your in there, now is a good time to do the filter. And just to really blow your mind. subsitute 2 quarts of transmission fluid with 2 quarts of 30wt engine oil. it'll help it when it's warm and will not effect cold temp performance.



-dave-

 

[Philip]

hdm48



I'm not offended one bit. The way you tell to adjust it is the way the shop manual shows if I remember right.



The way I told to do it is the way it was done at the transmission plant when they were assembling the 518 series trans. I have been thru on a couple of open houses and observed band adjustments on the assy line. The only thing I didn't like about the open house was I could not find the table with the free samples. :{



Now there was one thing I forgot to add. The three turns out was for the course thread adjuster screw. If the trans had a fine thread screw. It needed to go 4 1/2 turns out. I can't remember at which point they switched to the fine thread screw.



dshockley

If you have any dought about which thread pitch adjuster screw you have. Then use a gage block.