Rip Rook Rules!! ... and the stock muffler sucks BTW...

[Cummins Corvette]

<< That's me after I finished off my 4" exhaust with the help of Rip Rook. I was worried that the Allied muffler would be too noisy, but as Rip said, it is not. That thing sounds sweet. I took his advise in positioning the muffler and no drone, no worries. Peak boost went from 47 psi to 50. Egt... still pegged in a couple of seconds though. But the exhaust is sure sounding. Rip is a cool guy to deal with!

Chris

 

[illflem]

Why do you want to run your boost so high?

 

[Snow man]

He has a KSB1,most of them have the wastegate bolted shut,so boost really isnt adjustable.

 

[chuck3]

Nice guy that Rip.

 

[Cooker]

With all the other stuff you had on your truck I can't believe you still had the stock muffler.

 

[Cummins Corvette]

Originally posted by illflem

Why do you want to run your boost so high?

What snow man said. The ksb1 is ridiculously expensive for what it does. I would bet the same amount of money as the b1 costs that I am still hitting over 2000 degrees easy. The pyro gets pegged so fast it's not even funny. I've got the slowest pyro too: Dipricol. It hits 1500 just as fast as that little needle can move. I'm not saying that any other turbo is better because this is the only one I have tried other than the stock one. I can say that I saw no change in how fast I can peg it when I swapped turbos though. All I have gotten so far with the B1 is more lag. At least it hasn't broken yet. It has had a very small amount of sand go through it already. I had a guy from a turbo shop look at it and he said that it was just fine though. I want my hx 35 back. :{ I liked that one better.



Cooker: The stock muffler was the reason I haven't posted anything about the b1 so far. I have kept the stock muffler so long because I was afraid of making it louder, but this isn't too bad. I might end up adding another one if I want it to be whisper quiet again. If the B1 offers a 400-degree egt drop, then I must have been hitting something like 3000 degrees before. The only real test I have done so far is seeing how fast I can go up Parley's canyon at 1300 degrees. Before the b1 I could go almost 100, now I can only go 90. Oh well. Hopefully it is just this cruddy pump.

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by Cummins Corvette

What snow man said. The ksb1 is ridiculously expensive for what it does. I would bet the same amount of money as the b1 costs that I am still hitting over 2000 degrees easy. The pyro gets pegged so fast it's not even funny. I've got the slowest pyro too: Dipricol. It hits 1500 just as fast as that little needle can move. I'm not saying that any other turbo is better because this is the only one I have tried other than the stock one. I can say that I saw no change in how fast I can peg it when I swapped turbos though. All I have gotten so far with the B1 is more lag. At least it hasn't broken yet. It has had a very small amount of sand go through it already. I had a guy from a turbo shop look at it and he said that it was just fine though. I want my hx 35 back. :{ I liked that one better.



Cooker: The stock muffler was the reason I haven't posted anything about the b1 so far. I have kept the stock muffler so long because I was afraid of making it louder, but this isn't too bad. I might end up adding another one if I want it to be whisper quiet again. If the B1 offers a 400-degree egt drop, then I must have been hitting something like 3000 degrees before. The only real test I have done so far is seeing how fast I can go up Parley's canyon at 1300 degrees. Before the b1 I could go almost 100, now I can only go 90. Oh well. Hopefully it is just this cruddy pump.

If its ridiculousy exspensive for what it does, why do you still run it? It provides more usuable boost then you had before, it is more durable then the one you had. What is it "not" doing for you? Are these results before or after your injection pump problem? Its not as simple as changing a turbo, you gotta look at the overall airsystem of each truck... in and out. The KwikSpool B1 will NOT drop temps 400&deg;! The regular housing might. On my truck I could peg the gauge (1600&deg; ) with PDR HX35, when I went to the regular housing B1 I couldn't peg it anymore, it would go above 1450&deg; but it would immeditly fall back. When I went to teh AT-4, I got my temperture problems back, with everything maxed I can get it hot again (512hp). I'm awaiting arrival of another B1 for my truck. Hopefully by then I can have my drive pressure gauge hooked up and I can judge the AT-4, regular B1, Kwikspool B1 on drive pressure.

 

[Jetpilot]

I have a like new HX-35 I will trade you for your B-1 if you want Chris... ...



Doug

 

[Snow man]

Chris,id gladly swap you to,I have a nice hx35 sitting here. Id gladly swap for that crummy B1 you have LOL.

 

[Cummins Corvette]

Your offers are honestly tempting. If I can ever get another pump, and I still have these egt issues, you're on. Yea I got 12 pounds more boost, but that is just a little number on my gauge. The only difference I noticed was an increase in lag. That's it. :{ I was expecting more top end. I really wish ATS hadn't insisted on keeping my hx-35. I would really like to get another one back on there to see if anything really changed (other than lag).

 

[Todd T]

Chris, you really need to sit yourself down and think about the bridges you burn. your truck doesnt run right because you dont think about what you are doing. like Kat said, its the total package. your truck is half baked at best. how can you give advice to others with a truck jacked up as bad as yours? hows that no plate idea working out? MAYBE (BTW this is the correct spelling of the word, you should note it) that's your EGT/spool up problem. what about your pump? did you get one that has been calibrated on there yet? why is everything, someone elses fault with you? all you have to do is pay the core charge and you could have your turbo. quit making buddy deals and then wishing you hadnt. (out loud on here) there is a saying, "live within your means" that comes to mind.



get it tuned up by a professional and padlock the hood shut. your safest bet

 

[Cummins Corvette]

Todd- you're absolutely right. I need to get this messed up pump off before I say anything more about Kurt's or Bill's products. Everyone needs to understand that Kurt has been awesome to work with in this whole deal. He is one hellova kool guy. Bill is a good person as well, but I disagree with how he handles himself sometimes. But looking at the whole picture, I'd say that Bill is definitely a good person.



My idle screw came loose and got stuck at 1200 rpm yesterday. This changed the shift points and the transmission worked a LOT better. I am going to talk to Bill tomorrow and ask him about some ideas that I have to make it shift the way I want it to. The lag was less, smoke was less, and it moved off a bit quicker. I'm sure that it was partially due to the power braking affect of the increased idle, but the shifting was better too.



I need to do some tuning. Until then, I won't say any more about the products on my truck because Todd has a good point.



One good thing about this is that I will learn quite a bit as a result of fixing all this.



Chris

 

[Todd T]

Right, as well as the rest of us--- if you let us help-- i know we are now heading off topic here so Chris PM me if you'd like.



you brought up a good point. you have talked quite a bit about your shift points, i believe your TPS is out of wack as well as you TB cable. you have said in the past it barks the turbo when it shifts, this could be why.



start here, take a reading of your TPS voltage as it sits. let me know what that reading is (just curious). keep in mind the truck will idle without it. so set your idle with the linkage off. then put the linkage back on and set (tweak) the TPS until you get a rock solid 1. 2volts at idle and it returns to there each time you release the throttle. adjust the linkage, until you have this. now you have an accurate reading on the TPS (which controls lockup via the PCM)



next lets address the TB cable. chances are with the adjustments of the linkage it is now out of wack. adjust it so you have an 1/8th inch of pull to place it on the ballcock.



lets go for a ride



lets us know how it is



BTW if you dont know how to meter the TPS, let me know.

 

[Cummins Corvette]

Thanks Todd. I have called Bill and adjusted the cable per his specs: 1/16" of play measured at the lever on the trans. I haven't messed with the tps since I was at Bill's shop. I'm gonna play with it today and I'll let ya'all know how it comes out. I am pondering modifying the tps to get more voltage all of the time by putting a resistor in parallel with the tps. I'll call Bill and see what he recommends.



thanks

Chris