Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Rmv'd the head and trans, need advice

[GAmes]

Yesterday I pulled the head. It has been apparant for some time that the engine had more than the advertised 130k when I bought it. I wanted to see what the pig in the poke looks like. Turns out the cyl walls do not have very much crosshatch left. No cracked pistons, but some have a lot of carbon and some are virtually clean. I'm taking the head to a machine shop tomorrow for a valve job. I'm trying to decide what to do about the injectors. They pop tested good when I installed the engine last march (100k ago) and the irregular carbon patches on the pistons makes me think they are about shot. Thinking about either DDPs or using the PDR215s from my old engine, but they have roughly 350k on them. So, another set of 215s, DDP 1s or DDP2s? I am not looking to upgrade to another turbo at this time. I have a PDR HX35. Rebuilding my original engine has taken a higher priority.



Second, I thought I had a rear main seal leak, and I knew my release bearing was shot so today we dropped the trans. Now I don't think the seal is leaking, that the oil is from a bad tappet cover gasket (will tackle that next).

Here is a pic, what do ya'll think? The backside of the flywheel is so dry it has rusted.

 

[Piers]

No signs of rear main seal leaking there. DDP 1's will give you the best upgrade in power/fuel mileage without taxing the EGT's too much. .

 

[Cosmo]

Was your head gasket leaking at all into the clean cyls?

 

[NIsaacs]

Just curious, but what were the suspicious symptoms or gut feeling that made you pull the head? Usually carbon deposits are oil related. Also is there only 100k miles on the throwout bearing? Rear main seal looks good but since you are so close..... unless the plan is to rebuild and use your original engine soon.



Nick

 

[GAmes]

I pulled the head to inspect the pistons and see how much life was left in the engine. I have been procrastinating on the rebuild, but now I don't have an excuse. This engine, judging by the cylinder walls, has over 500k on it. It is possible it was leaking oil into two of the cylinders because the carbon buildup was at the ouside edge of the hole, on the oil gallery side (intake side) of the gasket.



Yup, the throw out bearing only has 100k on it. It was making a squeaking sound, like a bad bearing in a fan motor (which is what I thought it was at first). I isolated it by putting just a little pressure on the clutch pedal, and the noise would go away. The bearing assy was in two pieces, the seal and part of the inside snap ring laying on the bottom of the bell housing. I'll post a picture of it later.



Unless someone can assure me that my turbo can support DDP2s, I'll be ordering DDP1s later today.

 

[NIsaacs]

Good catch on the bearing, that would have been an expensive on the road repair. Hopefully the bearing failure was an isolated incident or maybe it is one brand to stay away from?



Nick

 

[hsmith]

Gary, I'm running the DDP II's with the Super B. Really like the setup, but can still get a bit warm towing hard.

 

[GAmes]

Good catch on the bearing, that would have been an expensive on the road repair. Hopefully the bearing failure was an isolated incident or maybe it is one brand to stay away from?

You would think so, but circumstances required me to put another 6700 miles on it before I could get home. Other than losing all the grease the bearing is in good shape, all things considered. It still spins freely, but is noisy. I hope it is an isolated case, it is a SBC bearing.

 

[GAmes]

Gary, I'm running the DDP II's with the Super B. Really like the setup, but can still get a bit warm towing hard.

How do you think they would be if you still had the PDR HX-35?

 

[SRadke]

The miles could be accurate if a poor air filter was used.

 

[NIsaacs]

Wow, that bearing looks ugly. It almost looks like it was on the dry side from the get-go. I would think there would be some evidence of grease somewhere. How does the clutch look, or is it still bolted up? I think I would be scared of a new replacement SBC bearing. Looking at that it will make you loose confidence.



Nick

 

[hsmith]

Gary, I'm thinking my setup with the HX35 would be hard to control egt's. We have to remember though that my pump is set up by an amateur, (me), as compared to yours.

New SBDD going in today. It is a new concept for our application being real user friendly. Hope so.

Also have a set of very low mileage PDR 215's I might consider parting with.

Sorry about your tough luck with the engine swap. We just never know when to believe what we are told about condition, etc.

 

[GAmes]

I'm replacingthe clutch and PP. After 160k it had started to get difficult to back up trailers. A new bearing came in the kit, I'm confident of SBC parts.



Smitty, the new Con-O has a different spring setup than my old one. I guess Peter just can't be satisfied with quality.



I decided to make a trip to Austin to have my two sets of injectors tested. How about PMing me the $$ amount for you to part with the 215s:-laf

 

[hsmith]

The reason I made the clutch decision was the same problem you were having. Almost impossible to back the RV comfortably. Peter fixed me up with this DD, and I am pleasantly suprised. This baby is smooth and quiet. Need to hook up the RV and put it to the test.



I'll PM you about the sticks.

 

[GAmes]

Well, I think I found the cause for the premature failure of the throwout bearing while cleaning the inside of the bellhousing. This little, very high priced doo-dad, is called a bearing retainer. It's real job is to support the throwout bearing and clutch fork. It was slightly worn when I last had the transmission out, but Standard Transmission had just replaced the front bearing and put it back on, so I figured it was OK. No one told me it is supposed to have a light coat of grease. :{

 

[NIsaacs]

Yes, it is used up and needs replaced, however I don't think It would cause the bearing failure. How does the pilot bearing feel, or do you have a bushing?



The clutch looks to have about 50/60% lining left. With 160,000 miles thats good. If you can get the little things fixed and made to last, I see a 300,000 mile clutch in your future



I am a little uncertain as to why all the rust. You obviously don't have any internal oil leaks. I wonder if you wash your truck too much?:-laf



Nick

 

[GAmes]

I measured the thickness of the clutch plate. It is about . 010 thinner than the new one I bought. Standard trans did shave . 007 off the flywheel though. There is a possiblity that I could get more miles out of it, but I was getting some chatter (another reason I thought the rear main was leaking) so I don't see reinstalling it. I might put something on the PP to keep it from rusting and store it with my other spare parts though.



The pilot bearing was OK, but I replaced it too.

 

[Cosmo]

Well, I think I found the cause for the premature failure of the throwout bearing while cleaning the inside of the bellhousing. This little, very high priced doo-dad, is called a bearing retainer. It's real job is to support the throwout bearing and clutch fork. It was slightly worn when I last had the transmission out, but Standard Transmission had just replaced the front bearing and put it back on, so I figured it was OK. No one told me it is supposed to have a light coat of grease. :{

At least you can replace it. . If the snout that the throw out rides on gets worn on a Subaru trans, you have to replace the case.

 

[GAmes]

At least you can replace it. . If the snout that the throw out rides on gets worn on a Subaru trans, you have to replace the case.

Heck, a Subaru case probably costs less than the bearing retainer. Dodge only part... ... ..... bend over.

 

[GAmes]

I made the plunge and arranged for my original engine to get rebuilt. With the transmission on the floor and all the stuff disconnected to pull the head I was 75% to pulling the entire engine. It makes no sense to install a rebuilt head on a less than acceptable short block. Still thinking about those DDP1s though. The injector shop in Austin said the PDR215s are still serviceable, but 30 bar below new.