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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Robert Patton-How Quiet Is Quiet?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Mad-Hytec Drain Plug

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Robert,



Usually I skip anything in the TDR that doesn't have to do with the 24v trucks, but your sound-deadening article in the 6. 7 HPCR section caught my eye. When you say that you didn't learn your lesson and you tried again with a 99 truck, did you use Advanced Thermal Products engine compartment kit? The reason I ask is because I've been toying with the idea, but I can't bring myself to spend $1800 for a kit that will only reduce the cab noise by 0. 4-dB.



Thanks for the reply.
 
lots of info on quieting a cab down.



I have got a 3db reduction. I have not used the atp kit. send me a pm on what your budget is and i will point you in the right direction. $200 can make a big difference.



search for noise reduction there is a 17page post on it



Also here for atp kit comparison https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ions/17912-noise-levels-99-dodge-cummins.html



I've read that review before. When I called ATP, the guy on the phone quoted me $1800 for the whole kit, and that is WAY out of my budget, and I find it ludicrous that insulation would cost that much, no matter how good it is. I can turn the radio up and drown out the noise... . besides, who doesn't like Lynyrd Skynyrd:-laf:-laf
 
lead is best

3 ways to lower sound

  1. block- lead or mass loaded vinyl
  2. absorb- foam
  3. add mass to change resonance -- butyl asphalt ( dynomat, brown bread, peel and seel)



lots of people used soundstop foam (you can buy from JcWhitney), and lead



lead is quite expensive now $4. 00 a pound, it is much better than dyno-mat as it adds mass and blocks sound. MLV--mass loaded vinyl is much cheaper and I would recommend it as it is probably easier to install too and no bad health benefits.



Start with the back wall as there is no insulation there and it is very easy to access. adhesives people use are liquid nails, the stuff is heavy.



I already tore out the cab and put lead, foam and fatigue mat. the fatigue mat smells a little, maybe something else would have been better. My next step is to make a heatshield for the BHAF or go back to stock.
 
I just completed my “sound deadening project” on my 07 5. 9. I bet I spent close to 40 hours doing it. I installed 100 sq feet of B-Quiet and 40 sq feet of Second Skin Damplifer. If I had to do over I would use the Second Skin stuff exclusively. It lays down much nicer, is slightly thicker, was rated better in a performance test, and most importantly is not nearly as messy. Cutting and handling the B-Quiet caused my hands, truck paint, truck carpet, etc to become spotted with tar stains. It comes off easily with “waterless hand cleaner” but is a pain. I pulled out all of the seats, carpet, door panels, and trim. I installed the B-Quiet/Damplifer over all of the outer door skins, inner door skins, floor pan, behind rear seat, cowl area, and front wheel well area. On the floor and rear wall I installed Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro (3/8” thick dense foam with dense vinyl like layer). I wrapped the Luxury Liner up around the toe kick area of the drivers and passenger side. I also installed some under the wheel well near the area that the front door hinges attach. I also installed about 50 sq of thin 1/8” sound foam behind the trim pieces and between the headliner and roof. The wife thought I was nuts because “the truck wasn’t that loud to start with”. We went for a ride yesterday and she was “blown away”. She said she couldn’t believe the difference. I don’t have a DB meter but we are both convinced that it is quieter than our Mercedes. I have the Smarty on #9 that causes a good bit of timing rattle. I can still hear the engine when I get on it but the road noise is gone At 80 mph you only hear the slightest wind noise around the window. Overall it is a fantastic improvement and worth the effort and cost (about $600). I imagine that the insulation factor will be a nice benefit as well.
 
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