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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Rocker Tower Torque Specification???

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Can anyone tell me that the proper torque specifications for the 18mm and 13mm bolts that hold the rocker towers? I am changing to the 60lb. springs and my "cheap" manual doesn't specifically list these two values...
 
3 Star,

From TDR issue # 17 'Exhaust Valve Change':

13mm Positioning bolt to 18 ft lbs.

18mm Head bolt to 120 ft lbs.


How is the swap going?



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-10-2001). ]
 
Thanks for the QUICK reply...

The swap is currently underway (even as we speak so to speak) and is going really well!

I thought it was going to be something to be really "scared" of but in fact, except for getting my rather "large" frontal area section up to do 5 and 6 there are no problems at this time...

I am going to torque the bolts and lash the valves shortly and will keep everyone posted!
 
How many lashes are you giving those valves, 3 Star. I hope no more than 12! #ad
#ad


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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.

[This message has been edited by radixr (edited 03-10-2001). ]
 
Originally posted by 3 Star Z27:
Can anyone tell me that the proper torque specifications for the 18mm and 13mm bolts that hold the rocker towers? I am changing to the 60lb. springs and my "cheap" manual doesn't specifically list these two values...

Seems to me that a later TDR said to mark the head bolts with paint so that they could be torqued back to the same value. That's what I did anyhow when I changed mine #ad
.

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1998 2500 Quad Cab, 12V, 5spd, 4x4, HD Transfer Case, 370HP Diamond B Injectors, #4 TST, 16cm2 Housing, AFC Spring Kit, BD Governor Spring Kit and other governor modifications, Walker Muffler, 285/75-16 BFG AT's, Stainless Steel Tube Steps, Reese Fifth Wheel Hitch, Leather, CD, LSD Dana 80 Rear, 60 Front, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, ATS Exhaust Manifold, Psychotty Air Induction, BD Exhaust Brake, Enterprise Engine Delivery Valves
 
As of Saturday evening it's running AGAIN!!! The spring change went very well with 5 being the toughest due to cowl clearance but even that wasn't all that bad.

I didn't "clock" the install time but I think it took longer to install the brake than change the springs. With the $200 to $300 I was quoted to just change the springs I am really glad I decided to to it myself.

Again thanks to all who helped as my "library" of TDR's only started with issue #31.

Jim
 
RE-Rocker tower Torque #'s

I have read these post and issue 17,-- But there was an article later that stated something to the effect of marking the bolt, tighten to this mark and then add a little more ????? Does anyone remember what value on a re-torque? I am going to install some new socket head screws to adjust the valves and I will have to remove the pedistal to do this.

Marv.
 
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You are probably refering to the factory torque-turn method. You would torque the bolts to 60 then 90 (I think) and then mark then some how then turn to 90°. It works but it's been some years since I have done that.



When I last did that, the new head/new head gasket blew right way. Maybe it was the boost ;)
 
dieselburner said:
Seems to me that a later TDR said to mark the head bolts with paint so that they could be torqued back to the same value. That's what I did anyhow when I changed mine https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//biggrin.gif[/img



OK here it is-------Issue 20 Page 91, right margin, by Mr Patton/Cummins.

Remove [U]one tower[/U] at a time, Mark with paint, [B]before removal[/B] do your spring replacement etc. Replace the tower, [U]tighten guide bolt to spec[/U] 18 ft llb, and [B]hand tighten the head bolt [/B] [U]snug[/U] and then tighten down to match the painted mark on the pedestal.

Refer to the article if you have more question. Also read Kevin Camerons article in the same issue on torquing and stretching of bolts, they go hand in hand.

Marv.
 
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