Rod's Pods Gauge Mount

[storm'in]

I would like to install a Rod's Pods mount with DiPricol EGT, boost, trans temp, and fuel pressure gauges w/ black face. Is anybody running this setup and do you like it???

 

[NPloysa]

Check out the search option and look for "RodPod Install". Schu777 did an excellent install thread with pictures and such. There are plenty of others also!



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=83137&highlight=rods+pod



Enjoy! I want to put this in my truck also.

 

[2broke2smoke]

i've got the exact setup you mention with autometer gauges ...

i love it

 

[storm'in]

Thanks for that link NP! That will come in handy for reference when I do my install. Gauges will be here next week.

 

[DLausche]

Originally posted by storm'in

I would like to install a Rod's Pods mount with DiPricol EGT, boost, trans temp, and fuel pressure gauges w/ black face. Is anybody running this setup and do you like it???

I've got the exact setup you describe. I love it! I am very pleased with both the DiPricol gauges and the Rod's Pod.



The only minor issue was that one of the gauges came with lower wattage bulbs and was noticeably dimmer. Easy to fix once I found the right bulbs at Fleet Farm.



-Deon

 

[DLausche]

Forgot the pic...

 

[storm'in]

DP, Thanks for the response. When did you do your install? I'm hoping the bulb problem is worked out by now. Also, I'm looking at your pic trying to figure out the order left to right of your gauges. Are they as follows: trans temp, EGT, boost, fuel press?

I thought about running mine like this: EGT, boost, trans temp, fuel press. Anything in the dash that would prevent this? Where did you get the paint for your Rods Pods? It looks like a perfect match! I too ordered a MH DD pan and RR diff. cover. I figured I'm approaching 30K miles and would the gauges, trans, and diff at the same time.

 

[DLausche]

I did mine Nov. of last year (2003). You are right on the order I have my gauges. I chose this order becasue there was more room for the tubing in the right two locations. The boost and FP are mechanical gauges. You will have to experiment with the boost in the 2nd from left to see if there is enough clearance in the back for the tubing hookup. It may not be too bad to get that to work out ok.



The paint came from the local Dodge dealer. Just needed the interior paint code and they looked it up no problem. It was a special order item at my dealer.



One thing I'd do differently if I had to do over again is to forget the FP isolator and just run fuel right to the gauge.



-Deon

 

[storm'in]

Deon,

Why not run the FP isolator?

 

[DLausche]

Originally posted by storm'in

Deon,

Why not run the FP isolator?

Well, I think it was more problem than it was worth. At first I had bubbles in the line up to the gauge and the reading was inaccurate. Took me a while to get all the bubbles out. Then there was the mounting the isolator and all. Not that I mind doing that type of work on my truck, but I just don't think it was worth it. If I did it again I'd just run the nylon/poly tubing that came with the gauge right from the fuel filter to the gauge, with a larger diam. nylon tubing over the top to protect the smaller tube.



Now that I think about it though, there is one thing I like about the FP isolator... After changing the fuel filter, I can just open the vent screw on the FP isolator to get all the air out of the filter and line.



I think you would be fine with or without the isolator. Maybe some others will chime in with their thoughts...



-Deon

 

[Rman]

my brothers truck had horrible pulsing sounds from the gauge, we experimented with tape and needle valves and got it reduced but it still was annoying, once the isolater was installed things have been eliminated.

 

[storm'in]

Thanks guys. I did purchase the 18" fuel line from Geno's and if I recall it screws into the shrader valve and the isolater, so I too like the idea of having the vent screw. Last ff change it took forEVER to get the air out of the system. Anybody else have comments on the isolater???

 

[JPLB22]

I too run diesel all the way to the back of my Di-Pricol gauge. When I first installed the FP gauge, I installed the isolater with it. But the gauge always showed 5 psi no matter what, it even took about 5 hrs. for the preesure to go back to zero after the truck was shut off. So I removed the isolater to see if that was the problem, and it was, so I just left it off. I have been running that way for about 23,000 miles.



At first the FP gauge buzzed and vibrated like crazy. So I read about installing a needle valve, so I installed it, and it did what it was supposed to do, stopped the buzzing. But then about 6 mo. ago I installed the Wildcat Max Flow Kit. At first I left the needle valve on there, and WOT pressure was about 9 psi. Then the valve developed a leak, so I took it off and reattached everything with out the needle valve, and guess what, WOT pressure went up 2 psi to 11 psi. I'm pretty sure that the valve was open enough, for it being too tight, to not be a problem. But after removing the valve the buzzing was back . So I removed the stainless braided hose from the fuel filter to the VP44 ( my FP port is at the VP44 ), and replaced it with a rubber 3/8's fuel hose. The rubber fuel hose absorbs the vibration and the gauge is silent once again, only this time the FP reading is completely accurate. The only possible problem is that without the valve I have no way of shutting off the flow of fuel if I have a leak.



Sorry for the long story !



Jeff