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Rokktech installers- help!

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i have tried for 2 days now, and absolutely cannot even come close to budging the allen screw on the OEM sensor. i am actually to the point of breaking the wrench! i stopped today when pieces of the OEM sensor were breaking off around the head of the screw. the electrical connector came off ok. if it truly is this difficult to remove, im not going to proceed with the mod, because if i end up breaking off the head or breaking the stock one, then ive got a really large lawn ornament. any advice would be great! thanks a bunch!
 
I like to use Aerokroil as a penetrating lubricant--it is trully amazing stuff.
They have a really good deal going on right now too.

Link here to check it out--http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

ps--I am in NO way affiliated with Kano Laboratories; simply use their products
 
I had no unusual difficulty when I removed the OEM sensor to install my Rokktec. Whole job took 10 minutes. It sounds like someone used high strength loctite on yours, you may have to resort to heat (and destroy the OEM sensor) to get yours out! If I found the screws that tight, I would want to remove and replace in my garage rather than wait and face it as a failure in the field!
 
take a punch that's smaller than the allan bit and strike the bottom of the set screw this will relieve some of the tension on the set screw. hope this helps
 
Mine was easy. My neighbors 05 was tight and took some grunt and a "snap" then came out. I'd try some PB Blaster and then the next day a little heat.
 
i've tried it hot and cold. sprayed a little WD40 on it, then let it set a day, nothing. i have effectively given up on this mod for now, as i am actually concerned that i may do more harm than good, and my mileage has actually seemed to pick up a bit now that i have towed a heavy trailer a few times this year, and am approaching 40,000 miles. the last thing i need is to move the OEM to a position that actually retards the timing even more than the factory position, and decreases mileage! and in my last bout with the allen screw, i broke off the black plastic that surrounds the metal "ring" on the upper portion of the OEM.



and actually, what the heck is the difference between the OEM and the aftermarket one? is it a magnetic or electrical pulse that affects the timing? they are identical looking pieces???
 
i've tried it hot and cold. sprayed a little WD40 on it, then let it set a day, nothing.



Seriously, when you get around to it again, try the AeroKroil that I mentioned above. WD40 is NOTHING compared to it, and the AeroKroil really DOES work wonders with frozen parts.
 
Some of the material is removed on the round portion of the sensor that allows you to shift the position of the sensor for more advance. More advance will increase mileage.
 
Seriously, when you get around to it again, try the AeroKroil that I mentioned above. WD40 is NOTHING compared to it, and the AeroKroil really DOES work wonders with frozen parts.



x2. Kroil has loosened stuff some stuff for me that I thought only heat would do.
 
Yup AND theres a real good deal right now and the link posted earlier in this thread.



sounds good, i think i'll order some asap. if it works, awesome. if not, i've still got 2 cans of spray lube for squeaky hinges and doors:)



did you guys order over the phone or on-line? with this the beginning of a long weekend, i wont be able to speak to a representative until tuesday. just wondering what may be faster delivery.
 
:eek::eek::eek: Uhhh. DUH! how about trying to turn the allen screw the right way dummy! Got it guys, I am soo embarrassed!



so anyway, i have the rokktek sensor on now, truck starts fine, i will drive it in a bit. it is installed almost identical to the OEM, what is this turning or rotating the sensor that i have heard about? i only see one way to install the sensor, due to the location of the hole for the screw. if anything, the sensor is pushed "up" a little, because of the slight variation in sensors. there is clearance with the gear on the engine side, so that isnt going to hit.



thanks again.
 
You twist/pivot the sensor "around" the screw, which essentially changes its position on the tone ring a small bit... 2 degrees isn't much.



You want to push it up if I remember correctly, towards the machined clearancing on the sensor.
 
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