"Rokktech mod" should be a DIY

[JKloppe]

If you know how to use a file, then you can do the mod yourself. The sensor is made out of plastic that is easy to work with. Precision machining is not required to get desired results. Now I know it is a very cheap mod, but I only spend money on things I can't build, fabricate or modify myself. I'm posting this just to encourage other people on the fence to pick up their file.



Jordan

 

[p-Bar]

I kinda like the idea of carrying an extra one in the glove box in case of failure. But you have a point.

 

[nickleinonen]

or you can just remove the tone ring/wheel and file the dowel hole to rotate it to accomplish the same timing advance. that costs you nothing but a few minutes of time. .

 

[driverno8]

Explain this filing the dowl pin thing. How easy is it. What's it do and will it work with or screw up the advanced timing the TST does. Any codes? Pros/con?

 

[DBond]

or you can just remove the tone ring/wheel and file the dowel hole to rotate it to accomplish the same timing advance. that costs you nothing but a few minutes of time. .

I was planning on doing the tone ring mod, but the crank sensor mod seems quicker and easy. I just have to what spot on the sensor to file, and how deep.

 

[doppx006]

I am very interested to see how to do both of these DIY mods, can someone please share how to do this? Thanks much

 

[Okey0]

look through this, has all the info you need:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140265&highlight=rokktech

 

[madduck]

Once my truck gets here plan on putting some miles on it efore I buy the rokktech sensor. I can/could do the tone ring mode my self, but don't want to have anything permanent for DC to find. Can just see DC blaming a driveability issue on it. How long do you think until DC learns of this mod and they advise techs to look for "enlarged" dowel pin holes on the ring?? With another sensor I can just change it back to stock.

 

[nickleinonen]

How long do you think until DC learns of this mod and they advise techs to look for "enlarged" dowel pin holes on the ring??

probably not all that long, but you would need to disassemble the front of the crank to see the tone wheel to see if it has been filed down. so serpintine belt off, vibe dampener off, and see the tone wheel. the most you will get out of the tone wheel is about 2°-2. 5° unless you start filing down the 4 holes where the dampner's hold down bolts go through. . heck, there is about 1° of play in the original dowel pin hole, it isn't a precise fit... you could loosen the dampener bolts and clock it as far CW as you can without filing anything, and that would be like a "tune up". . if you were to bore the dowel pin hole out with a drill bit, it would end up being round instead of oval, and could look like a manufacturing defect.



they could also tell if a sensor has been changed out by the cleanleness that it is if the engine is all dirty and a clean sensor is sitting on it, something is up. .

 

[doppx006]

SO can someone if possible post detailed directions to do the tone ring mod? THanks

 

[nickleinonen]

SO can someone if possible post detailed directions to do the tone ring mod? THanks

- remove serpintine belt

- unbolt crank pulley/vibe dampener assembly [15mm socket required]

- remove tone wheel

- on work bench/vise, position tone wheel with dowel hole at 12:00 position and file down ±1mm on the left side of dowel hole [this will allow you to rotate it clockwise when put back on the end of the crank]

- position it back on the crank and clock it as far CW as possable with the amount filed down

- put dampener/pulley back on and torque to 30lbs/ft + 60° [torque/turn method]

- install belt

- start engine and visually check everything is ok [watch your fingers]



enjoy

 

[driverno8]

Pics Pics Pics



Don't have a clue what a tone wheel is. Also, how does this with the TST? Am I going to get codes?

 

[nickleinonen]

Pics Pics Pics



Don't have a clue what a tone wheel is. Also, how does this with the TST? Am I going to get codes?

when using the ring mod or sensor mod, they are not recomended using when a timing box is used [pressure & duration are ok though]



i don't have any pictures... but over on the DTR, member "superduty" has some pictures in his gallery there

 

[NavyDood]

- on work bench/vise, position tone wheel with dowel hole at 12:00 position and file down ±1mm on the left side of dowel hole

I heard it was 1/8". It takes an 1/8" to get the 2° of advance.

1/8" = . 125in where 1mm = . 039in

 

[nickleinonen]

I heard it was 1/8". It takes an 1/8" to get the 2° of advance.

1/8" = . 125in where 1mm = . 039in

you won't get quite 1/8" of extra travel without grinding down the 4 mounting bolt holes too...



and from what i have read [mostly on the DTR in this thread (post#131 has the calculations, and they seem correct to me)] by those that have done the calculations, 0. 036" materal removed yields 2° timing advance

 

[DBond]

you won't get quite 1/8" of extra travel without grinding down the 4 mounting bolt holes too...



and from what i have read [mostly on the DTR in this thread (post#131 has the calculations, and they seem correct to me)] by those that have done the calculations, 0. 036" materal removed yields 2° timing advance

Both are right. It is about 0. 125 inch at the OUTSIDE of the tone ring, which you can get with about 0. 036" at the dowel pin radius.

 

[DRussell]

Some have claimed increased fuel efficiency and more power. My experience was not the same.



It is my opinion that the Rokktech timing sensor is a waste of money. I bought one a month ago and tried it for a couple weeks. The first week was at the full 2 degree position. Over the next week I retarded the timing in 1/4 degree increments with each show slightly better mpg ratings. But all setting was worse than the stock sensor.



The engine was noisier and I could not tell there was any increase in power.



With the Rokktech set at the full 2 degrees advance my MPG dropped by +-1. 2 mpg on the highway and +-. 5 around town. With the stock sensor I average 15. 8 @ 80 mph, 16. 4 @ 70, 17. 8 @ 65 with my best being 18. 8 @ 60. All tests were done on the same 160 mile round trip between Greensboro and Charlotte and hand calculated after filling to the top at the same station.



It starts to drop below 60. Around Charlotte (NC) I average 14. 8 in stop & go traffic running between 35 and 50 mph.



I also spent 2 hours installing Rokktech's vibration dampening kit. It was a bigger was of money that the sensor. The kit contains some spring, flat and rubber washers and a dozen pieces of angle that is strapped to various hoses. All of these materials can be bought at your local hardware store for less than $15. I couldn't tell any difference at any rpm.



Sometime over the Christmas holiday I'll be putting the sensor on Ebay.

 

[DBond]

...



With the Rokktech set at the full 2 degrees advance my MPG dropped by +-1. 2 mpg on the highway and +-. 5 around town. With the stock sensor I average 15. 8 @ 80 mph, 16. 4 @ 70, 17. 8 @ 65 with my best being 18. 8 @ 60. All tests were done on the same 160 mile round trip between Greensboro and Charlotte and hand calculated after filling to the top at the same station.

I like having detailed data like that.



Have you run a control with the stock sensor after reinstalling it?



I suspect that this 2 degrees would be of more advantage in the 04. 5 and later engines that have the tougher Nox requirements. Retarding the timing is a way to reduce Nox.

 

[DRussell]

Not yet. Will be driving up to Greensboro later this week. Will top off the tank and make the round trip with the cruise set at 70 and top aoof again at the same station.