Rotary Brush or Sickle Mower?

[Matt400]

I have an area of about 5000 sq feet that is rocky uneven terrain at 3500 feet elevation I need to keep a handle on.

In the past we have used a powerful weed eater with heavy line but that’s a big job carrying that around the field plus it won’t cut heavy brush. I have a saw blade for the weed eater but it’s time consuming to change out and really doesn’t work that well.



So I was thinking about a DR field and brush mower for the larger area and the weed eater for the steep bank. Then I was looking at the Sickle type mower and it looks lighter and more maneuverable while cutting a wider path.

The DR product mulches which is nice where the Sickle just lays it down.



My question is- who has used these machines and how well do they work? I am afraid of tearing up the DR by hitting dirt and rock clumps I cant see where the Sickle might be more forgiving, dunno. Which one is better for traction and such?



Due to the terrain I would rather walk behind a powered mower than ride something, I have been out there on a Kubota tractor and felt I could easily roll it in many areas.

#ad


#ad


#ad

 

[cojhl2]

With rocks and uneven terrain I'm not sure it's a place for a sickle mower.



It's kinda pretty,, why not let it grow?

 

[Matt400]

It's kinda pretty,, why not let it grow?

Thanks, it doesn't look too bad at the moment but its not always green and fire danger is high in our area. The County is enforcing a 100' clearance ordinance.



Up on top of the bank on the left is our yard which we keep nice with lawn, last year we did a deck off the lawn to make the yard feel bigger and now I should also keep under the deck free from fire danger too.

 

[vinconco]

I have a very similar, but larger area that had heavy brush and I bought a DR Brush and Field mower http://www.drpower.com/TwoStepCateg...ome&Name=FieldBrush2Step&BC=0:Home&LinkType=2



I had a sickle bar mower but the main problem with it was it wouldn't cut stuff over about 3/4" and it left the cut brush on the ground to foul the blades when mowed again.



The brush mower will cut up to 2" thick stuff and it will grind it up so it rots quickly. I have used and mostly abused mine and I cannot say enough good things about it. It will absolutly kick the s*** out of that hillside you showed in the pictures. The only problem you will have is that it will be over with quickly and you will have to wait for it to grow back to use this excellent machine again.

 

[FordCummins]

x2 on the rotary brush mower. We dont use a DR mower, but we run its bigger brother, a Gravely tractor. Ive never personally run a DR, but they look like they do a pretty good job, and considering you cant buy a new Gravely walk behind tractor anymore, I think it is your best. A sickle mower will get beat up too easily, and not to as good a job I dont think.

 

[DBogo]

could you go up and down it on a tractor not across

 

[Ggg]

Definitely a rotary mower, sickle will clog too easily since you are not picking up the cuttings. I know nothing about DR but I would personally look at other brands only because if I see a infomercial for a product I will not buy it, period.

Another thought is to get in there with the Kubota and remove the rocks/dirt piles and more or less smooth it out and then mow with a brush hog attachment on the Kubota.

 

[Matt400]

I bought a DR Brush and Field mower

It will absolutly kick the s*** out of that hillside you showed in the pictures.

I like that idea, what model did you get?



I called DR and they suggested the 13hp OHV was plenty up to the job.

It is a single cylinder Briggs where the 15hp Pro and 17hp Commercial are V-twin Kawasaki's.

All 3 are electric start and the same weight and cut a 26" path.

The 17hp 30" wide unit they don't feel would maneuver as well in mountainous terrain plus it weighs 20 lbs more.



One inch stuff is all I will see but maybe the Kawasaki is smoother and more quiet?



DBogo- No, not a good idea for me, years ago we did contract a fella to do that on a track type tractor which was more safe. The lowest part of the area is very uneven.

 

[Rotty]

I have the DR 11. 5 hp and it is a dream for dealing with the ultra heavy grass and small < 1. 5" brush/saplings. It will cut that just fine, the sickle bar will shread itself after the first rock.

I have found out that I use the second speed of a four speed transmission and just lightly hang onto the handle and it doesn't beat you up. I have hit stumps and rocks with no problems.

It does and absolute number on berry bushes too. :-laf



i now only use the Dr in tight quarters when the kubota tractor with bush hog is too much trouble.

 

[vinconco]

The DR also offers a optional grass mower deck that will fit the brush mower. I have been using the same one since 1998 on 5 acres of hills and around buildings. I have beat the s*** out of it and gone through 2 (tehcumseh) motors (which DR does not use anymore thankfully) I have a Briggs motor on it now.

This machine will do everything in the infomercial and do it every day for YEARS and YEARS.

 

[RKerner]

DR alternative

I use this on for mowing paths to my deer stand. It works pretty good.



Billy Goat

 

[Matt400]

I use this on for mowing paths to my deer stand. It works pretty good.



Billy Goat

Thanks for that link, impressive video they have.

But what about that rear discharge deck? That sounds scary in the even I send a golf ball sized rock at speed to the ankle

 

[vinconco]

I just watched the video and it appears the mower deck discharges in a similar manner to the DR. I have never had a rock or projectile exit the rear of the machine (DR)



Having spent a lot of time behind the DR I would have to say that the Billy Goat's transaxle is a huge improvement over the DR system. Also the adjustable deck helps as well.

 

[Matt400]

the Billy Goat's transaxle is a huge improvement over the DR system. Also the adjustable deck helps as well.

Why do you think that? The sales folks at DR says it has a locking differential which sounds good for nasty areas and the cutting height on the DR is adjustable also.



I priced out a Billy Goat 13hp Honda e-start model at 2600 so the price is about the same. A local Billy Goat dealer claims the deck metal is more heavy than a DR yet the DR out weighs the BG by 45 lbs.



snow blower attachment on the DR looks interesting and I could possibly put that to use maybe a couple times each year for really bad storms but wouldn't buy it if its spendy only because its really not that necessary for me.



For maneuverability I kinda like the idea of the 45 pound weight savings on the BG.

 

[vinconco]

Matt400;

I have completely rebuilt the transaxle on the DR twice (with upgrades provided by DR free of charge) and while the system works it is really low tech, which isn't always a bad thing. It does need constant lubrication and adjustment which it doesn't always get. Since I haven't used the Billy Goat's limited slip differential I can't really make a definite comparison but the limited slip transaxle sure sounds like a much needed improvement.



One thing I have to say about DR is that they have a customer service tech hotline that has always been there and is very helpful, even on Saturdays. They do not sell you the machine and then set you free (like DC). They have knowledgeable techs that have a history of you and your machine at their fingertips and they never play dumb or brush you off. This company sets the standard for standing behind their product.

 

[JSellers]

One thing I have to say about DR is that they have a customer service tech hotline that has always been there and is very helpful, even on Saturdays. They do not sell you the machine and then set you free (like DC). They have knowledgeable techs that have a history of you and your machine at their fingertips and they never play dumb or brush you off. This company sets the standard for standing behind their product.

I agree with DR's customer service excellence. They have been very supportive since we purchased the All-Terrain Mower.



If you can afford it, I'd recommend gettting a model with the Kawasaki twin cylinder. It's a great engine, and runs very quietly.



The only issue I've had with the DR - it will drop a drive chain sometimes. I think mine has always come off when the master link security clip gets brushed off (possibly from running through thick stuff?). When that happens, it won't be long before the link comes apart, and you're stuck with either putting on a new master link, or you've got to push the machine home. And that's not easily done! I've started keeping extra master links on hand. This problem might not happen as frequently if I would keep the chain adjusted - the tension needs to be checked at about every session, especially just after installing a new chain. But, it's only a 5-minute adjustment.



My mother-in-law also has one of the string trimmers from Country Home Products, and it's a great machine too. While I don't have a need for some of the stuff they sell, they have some very useful goods available. And, as I said before, their customer service and support is among the best available.



Hope this helps,

John

 

[Matt400]

I am glad I posted on this, all good info from everyone.



On the DR I like:

• 2" taller tires than the BG
  
• Pivoting deck for better traction
  
• Availability of a smoother running twin cylinder
  
• Electric blade clutch
  
• Locking differential
  

On the Billy Goat I like:

• Modern differential with limited slip
  
• Proof of durability from rental companies
  
• A more open view without the DR's dash board
  

Since the Billy Goats are rented commercially I may try one out this season on a rental first before buying.

 

[Matt400]

Oh what the heck. . I bit the bullet and ordered a 15hp DR, got a blade with it too for 100. 00 off.

I won't have it for 2-3 weeks and the field will probably be too dry (fire danger) to cut but there is fall. Thanks again everyone for letting me bounce this one around even though its not Diesel related.

 

[Willys]

Well, it appears I'm a bit late to this thread, but maybe I can give my 2 cents in case someone else is in the market for a brush cutting machine.



I cut brush for a living- and have been doing this full time for about 10 years. My walk behind mower is an older model of billygoat's brush mower- which has been updated many times over the years. I like how they continually improve the product. My old transaxle is great, but is open. It would slip on steep hills if I hit a stump or rock(until I installed tubes in the tires, and lowered the tire pressure enough that it 'grabs'). A limited slip and knobby tires is probably a huge improvement over my open axle and tractor style tires. Mine is an 11 hp Honda, which has run very well, and is a '98 or '99 model IIRC. I've cut 2-3" pine saplings with this, no problems, though I had some cracking on the deck some time back- just a quick welding job. I HAVE abused the mess out of this thing since new, fulltime. I can only speak for the old DR mowers which had bicycle style tires, and ruled the steep ground with tire chains(owner installed).



For big lots I use a Kunz acrease behind a Bombardier traxter. A great setup! I don't have time at the moment to sing its praises, but I'm definitely a happy customer. Go to www.kunzeng.com

 

[Matt400]

Well, it appears I'm a bit late to this thread, but maybe I can give my 2 cents in case someone else is in the market for a brush cutting machine.



I can only speak for the old DR mowers which had bicycle style tires, and ruled the steep ground with tire chains(owner installed).

Glad you posted cuz I got a set of tire chains with my DR for winter and forgot I could use them in the dirt too for added traction if needed.