2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rotor question

[Berrigan]

My front pads are due to be changed. For about the last six months or so when the brakes are applied and still cold they dont pull and no pulsation is felt. Then after they get warm, the truck will pull to the right when applying the brakes and a pusation can be felt. I plan on rebuilding the calipers when I do the pads. My question is do you all think I need to turn the rotors. If they were slightly warped I would think they would pulsate whether hot or cold. Im assuming the pull is due to a caliper sticking a little.



The reason for this question is that I can only find dealers who can turn the 4wd rotors on the truck. When brake shops hear its a Dodge 4wd they all say they dont have the equipment to turn them on the vehicle. Any advice would be appreciated. Bill

 

[rrl989]

I paid to have my rotors cut on the truck at DC (1 hr. @ $75) All was well for about 2 weeks when the symptoms returned, The rotors are crap, save yourself the aggravation and just get them replaced now by a local shop, don't bother with DC as they only change out the whole Hub / rotor assy. costing well over $1000 for both sides.



Ron

 

[JoshPeters]

If you dont' mind using some elbow grease (if your gonna rebuild yoru calipers you can do this) Replace the rotors yourself. The tricky part is getting the hub out. What I have found works the best is this. There are 4, 14 or 15mm(don't remember) 12 point bolts on the back side of the spindle. Take them 3/4 of the way out, but don't remove them. Use a hammer and a good punch and in a star pattern hit them. This will push the bearing/hub out from the back side, so you don't ruin the bearing. Once it is removed you can take a hammer or my prefered an Air hammer and pop the studs out. The Rotor comes off the back side of the bearing/hub assy. On my dually (spacers) it takes about 2. 5-3 hours. It's a bit time consuming, but much much cheeper than bringing it in. And like FF said... the dealer will sell you the hub and bearing saying that they will ruin the bearing when they remove the hub.



Josh

 

[IMunro]

I agree with the others. I have never had a satisfactory experience with having the rotors turned. They always pulsed afterwards. After they are turned the rotors are thinner than they were and therefore more inclined to warp again. On a 4wd I have no idea how to replace them, but the advice above looks to be good.



Good luck,



Ianonhercules

 

[Berrigan]

I hear what you guys are saying and it makes sence. Any advice on the hot/cold rotor pulsation? Ive been doin my own brakes for 25 years and have never had a rotor pulsate only when hot. If the rotor had warped it would always give the pedal pusation, hot or cold.



Im almost ready to gamble and just do the pads and calipers, then re-evaluate the rotors afterwards. whatdoyathink. Bill

 

[rrl989]

I should have stated earlier. Exactly the problem I had (cold / Hot), Start out ok, get heated up, pulsing back. Eventually, gets real noticable. Makes driving the truck real annoying.

 

[Dane]

The rotors are warped when hot. Turning them will not fix the problem. Buy new rotors. I would get rebuilt calipers and pins too.

 

[GAmes]

I hear what you guys are saying and it makes sence. Any advice on the hot/cold rotor pulsation? Ive been doin my own brakes for 25 years and have never had a rotor pulsate only when hot. If the rotor had warped it would always give the pedal pusation, hot or cold.

I've had this problem. The caliper on the side that pulls after it gets hot is sticking. Rebuilding or replacing it should cure that problem. I agree about getting the rotors turned, not worth the money or hassle. Replace them if they are warped. Reuse them if not.

 

[WBraico]

Does any one out there know where to get the [/U]Raysbestos Super Stop RotorsI believe they come cross drilled and grooved?

I'm in the So cal area. Thanks :WALT.

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98. 5 Ram 3500 4x4 sport autometer,sport comp pyro,trans,boost,electric fuel press. w/snubber,warning light/chime. edge comp drag box,2nd VP-44 inj. pump,dual fltr. amsoil. allum trans pan, Bilstien shocks,westin bars,push bar custom 5" exhaust, silencer ring fell out

 

[Jschafer]

I chased this problem on my 2500 4x4 for a long time then I turned the drums on the rear and it all went away. My drums were out of round from day one. I would do the front brakes and the next time I got on the brakes hard the shake was back.

Also if you do turn the rotors and I have with success, you can take the whole hub assembly to the auto parts store (carquest, Napa ect) and they can put the whole thing in the brake lathe and turn it, I didn't have to remove the rotor from the hub, keep in mind mine is a 2500 not a dully I don't know if that makes a difference.

When I do my front brakes I always clean the pins and re-lube and I push the piston in and out 3 or 4 times, it seems to help with the front end pulling one way or the other.

Maybe this will help.

 

[Regcabguy]

I replaced my stock rotors with Napa premium cross-drilled and slotted rotors and experienced worse stopping power than with stock rotors. One theory is that you have removed about 9% rotor area. These warped in 10,000 miles. One option is Powerslot rotors available from 4WD Parts Wholesalers complete with Hawke performance pads (complete set,both front wheels) available for your truck for about $235. 00. Slotting only sweeps gases from rotors while only decreasing braking surface about 3% they claim. It's worth a try!

 

[diesel DOG]

modern pads don't need out gassing anymore. Forget drilled and slotted they are less durable and may crack easier.

 

[CSnyder]

am I missing something here?

I just replaced my front rotors and pads yesterday with Carquest parts and I didn't have any trouble getting the caliper brackets loose to replace the rotors without taking my bearing hub off or knocking out my lug bolts. I thought it went real easy with a minimal amount off tools. Is there a difference between my 2000 and some of the trucks you are talking about in the brakes? Also does anyone know an easy way to rebuild these calipers? I popped a seal on mine when I used a channel locks plier to squeeze them back in. Now it leaks brake fluid when I depress the pedal. What a pita! thanks in advance for any help!

 

[diesel DOG]

You can get a seal kit from the dealer but not the pistons. I have 68,000 on mine and the rotors look like new with the exception of a few spyders. I have used 2 OEM sets and and two PFC sets of pads from Autozone which are warrantied for life. After 15,000 mile I just return them and they give me new ones. Oo.

 

[Hvy-DCZ]

On the rotors: I replaced mine (old ones had heat fractures) not too long ago. I picked up a pair of Brembos (not crossdrilled) online for only $70-80 each. I replaced the calipers w/ napa lifetime pre-loaded for ~$75 each, too. I did the oversized rear wheel cylinders at the same time. WOW what a difference. The Italians are pretty good at various endeavors: Super cars, espresso and brake parts... what else could you ask for?



Hvy-dcz (dcz=decaf zombie, but I drink reg too)

 

[Jschafer]

CSnyder

Yes the brakes on the older trucks are different I am not sure what year they changed 99 or so I guess. i use a c-clamp and the old pad to push the piston back in that way you can push in the middle of the piston

 

[JPike]

In my experience, I haven't relied on rebuilding calipers. I purchase loaded rebuilt calipers. Last set from Cold Air Distributors for 96. 00 a side loaded. and rotors for 85. 00 a side. Add new bearings and seals and all is well. I new Parts Plus and Discount Auto also carry. but I'm not sure of the prices. BTW my inner pads were shot all the way to the rivets but outers looked like they had 1/2 life left. So be sure to check inners when rotating tires

 

[DESL PWR]

My $. 02 on this topic.



My truck had a terrible pull to the left under braking. I bleed my braks on regular intervals due to the fact that Brake fluid is very susceptible to comtamination. That contamination can lead to eventual seal and piston failure. A simple brake bleeding job cured my problem. In the bleeding process I discovered a lot of air in the system. I suspect that has to do with a leaky master cylinder where it mounts to the hyd booster, but thats another story.

 

[ramman]

FYI removing rotors the easy way

A tip from a friend that works,I removed the rotors/hubs today. Loosen the 4 hub bolts leaving 3-4 threads remaining,remove axle nut now with a friendly helper around have him start the truck while you place your socket and short extension on the bolt head have him turn the wheel until the extension contacts the axle housing thus using hydraulic pressure of the power steering to push the hub/bearing out /straighten wheel and move to the other side in the x pattern turn wheel again and push. My need to push from all 4 bolts and presto . No beating and cussing required. Hope this is uderstandable and helps some one else. It worked great for me today both hubs on the floor in less than 30 minutes. One more tip is to stick a long screwdriver thru the u joint to keep from pulling it out of the carrier when removing the hub/rotor from the truck,after removal shimming the end of the axle up may prevent seal deforming from not being supported and centered with the hub removed. Good luck

 

[SMorneau]

I chased this problem on my 2500 4x4 for a long time then I turned the drums on the rear and it all went away. My drums were out of round from day one. I would do the front brakes and the next time I got on the brakes hard the shake was back.

Also if you do turn the rotors and I have with success, you can take the whole hub assembly to the auto parts store (carquest, Napa ect) and they can put the whole thing in the brake lathe and turn it, I didn't have to remove the rotor from the hub, keep in mind mine is a 2500 not a dully I don't know if that makes a difference.

When I do my front brakes I always clean the pins and re-lube and I push the piston in and out 3 or 4 times, it seems to help with the front end pulling one way or the other.

Maybe this will help.

As said make sure it is not the rear brakes. I and a few others have been fooled into thinking the problem was in the front.



"I replaced the calipers w/ napa lifetime pre-loaded " NAPA told me they no longer do lifetime warrantee on brakes calipers or other brake parts. The replaced a failed one once and told me that was it for that caliper.