2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rotor warped-replace or machine again

[icarus33]

I have at least 1 rotor warped. I think excessive heat has caused this since I suspect my calipers are not releasing entirely. Last set of pads only lasted 13k miles. I have a rebuild kit for the calipers and once done with that need to deal with the rotors.



Both rotors have been turned now twice. Can they be cut again and would this now accelerate further warpage due to the thinning disc? I could not locate the minimum thickness stamp on the outside of the rotor.



I'm leaning to just replacing the rotors this time around. I've read both the good and bad on pulling these things off without damaging the axle seal.



Any thoughts welcomed of those that have been down this path.



ic

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Don't bother cutting the rotors again. They will just warp. I got new rotors from AutoZone for $45 each.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

The rotors on my '91 warped badly twice due to poor trailer brakes forcing the truck to do the stoppng for both vehicles, were turned, and the last job lasted for 70,000 miles with no further problems...

 

[Bhale]

I'd suggest replacing them. If you think they've been hot recently, hot enough to warp them, it's time to flush the fluid also.

 

[inarush76]

rotors

May be time to replace. In the future be sure if your rotors are to be turned that the shop that turns them uses an indicator to indicate them to minimum runout BEFORE they start cutting. Lessens likelyhood of rotor warping again. My . 02.



James

 

[illflem]

I wouldn't have even had them turned the first time if it was due to warping. Once a warp most always a warp, it comes back. The price of turning vs. quality $50 rotors also makes it a waste to turn. If your rotors are getting scored and need turning either you are running too hard of pads or letting them wear down too far. 120k on stock rotors, no turning, on my 3500, 160k on replacement rotors (I let the pads wear down too much) on the 2500. These rotors don't need to be turned every time the pads are replaced, just sand off the glaze. Removing the bearing from the rotor is easy, just pound out the studs, the hard part is if the axle stub is frozen to the bearing. My 2¢

 

[raiste]

I thought I read somewhere that our rotors have to be turned "on the truck"? If true, how do you do that?

 

[djgwinn]

I just went through the same thing. My rotors had been turned once after they had developed a warp on the second set of pads. This time I had the shop replace the rotors even though they said they could be turned again. Stops staight and without any steering wheel jockeying from the old rotors.

David

 

[icarus33]

First rotor turn was during a warranty brake pull issue at around 32k miles. Left rear axle seal leaking and soaked shoes. For dealer to warranty work for 12k/1yr I was told I would need the rotors cut on the truck, replaced pads at that time.



Second cut was my fault around 65k miles. During routine tire rotation, saw that I had less than 1/8" of pad left on an outer pad, squeeker gone. Had ordered new pads from Peterson a day or two before 9/11 and then the whole world stopped for several days. Pads had just started to score one rotor by the time I received pads and could change them, so cut again.



Now I have warpage from what I believe to be due to a lack of caliper release. The rotors had never warped before the last 4k miles.



Of all the vehicles I've driven, I have never been into disc cutting like this. It's now become more important to check the pad thickness every 6k miles than changing the oil. This is getting way expensive.



The rotors have been turned on the truck. I have only found the Dodge dealer in ABQ equipped to do this so far.



Thanks for the replies, looks like a rotor swap is in my future.



ic

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"I wouldn't have even had them turned the first time if it was due to warping. Once a warp always a warp, it comes back. "



NOPE! That word "always" gets seriously overused...



Like I posted above. warped mine twice in about 50,000 miles, had them turned twice, when I sold the truck recently with 120,000 miles, rotors were straight-arrow and stopped perfectly!



Watch that "always"...

 

[BigPapa]

Hello there! I'm new to the TDR and this is my first post. I'm wondering where you fellows are getting these $45-$50 rotors. I'm in need of front rotors for my 2x4 and the best deal I've found is at a dealer that gives me a discount on parts. They're $126. 68 each and come with bearings. Auto Zone wants $164 plus bearings, Advanced wants $110 plus bearings, and my old parts house wants $111 plus bearings.

 

[illflem]

You're not going to find rotors for a 2wd for $50, they run about twice as much as 4wd. Cheapest source I've seen is www.tirerack.com Click brakes at top right. Your prices are competive.

 

[Maximus]

A couple of months ago I replaced my rotors. I purchased them from Kragen Auto Parts (http://www.kragen.com). I had a choice of $55 or $75 rotors (I went for the $75. The price difference was in the quality of the rotors).



The hub nut should be 1-11/16 and the 12pt bolts holding the bering on is a 14mm 12pt socket.



Remove the hub nut, washers, retaining clip, and bering. Take out the 12pt bolts on the back side of the backing plates which hold the bering/hub assembly on. Hopefully its not rusted on the axle housing. You need to figure out how the break it loose with out damaging anything (I had no problems but some people do have lots of problems).

After you get the bering/hub assembly off you need to drive the wheel studs out. I recommend using a extra stock style nut and spinning on the wheel stud 5-6 turns so when you drive the wheel stud out you won't hurt the threads on the stud. After driving out all 8 studs you will be able to seperate the rotor from the bering/hub assembly.

After putting the new rotor on I recommend greasing up the wheel stud threads and using another stock style nut to pull the wheel studs back through (put the nut on backwards). I recommend using an impact wrench but it will still work if you don't have one. Then reassemble the rest as it came apart.



Good luck!

- Maximus

 

[icarus33]

Thanks for the tips gang. I checked around at Autozone and NAPA for the rotors on the truck and both places were at $90 each. Checked the tire rack and they had the standard rotor at around $60. I ended up ordering the slotted, not crossdrilled rotors they had available for $103+$12 shipping each. Thought I'd give this setup a try and see if these rotors have any benefit on these trucks.



ic