Rounded off a bolt on the transmission pan on my wife's jeep-now what!!

[EArp]

I was going to service the transmission on my wife's '04 Jeep Grand Cherokee today for the first time, and while trying to remove one of the bolts it rounded off! I guess somebody either impacted it down too tight or it was cross threaded at the factory. I tried everything I could think of to get it out, including vise grips and one of those attachments for your drill that backs out broken screws. Nothing worked. So I went ahead and just buttoned it back up with the old fluid still in there. I'm wondering what to do now? Her jeep has 80k on it now. I'm thinking that rather than dish out big time cash for someone to remove the mangled bolt, I might just let her drive it til it blows. Who knows, with the way she drives it, I might get another 50k or more out of it. I don't know, what do you guys think?

 

[ScottLewis]

You could try cutting a slot in the head with a Dremel to remove with a screwdriver or hand driven impact driver but if it's that tight it may just sheer off. Then, of course, you could drill it and remove the remains with an EZ out.



Dan

 

[Matt400]

On those I will usually use a sharp chisel & hammer. By striking it sideways the chisel digs a grove into the side of the bolt and makes a ledge to further work the bolt counter clockwise.

If its cross threaded you may have to drill and tap it out however if its not leaking maybe just get a machine flush and leave the filter in there for another 30K. Those filters are not that fine of material anyway and you will get more fluid out with a machine.

 

[mickeyblueyes]

Its been a long while but can you disconnect the cooler line to the radiator put it in neutral and start it up it should pump out all the transmission fluid? I believe you has to cap off the radiator while you are doing it. Then refill.

 

[Hoefler]

Take the next size smaller 6 point socket, ( try a S. A. E. socket since the bolt is metric ) drive it on with a hammer. You should be able to get it out.

 

[Wiredawg]

go to Sears/NAPA etc... and get a bolt extractor. You drill the center of the bole, screw in the bolt extractor (reverse thread bit) and it will back out.



Wiredawg

 

[BHanna]

I've never had good luck with bolt extractors. In my experience if the bolt head wasn't strong enough to remove a bolt, an extractor probably won't be either. I've had them break off and then you're really screwed because you can't drill the things. They're just too hard. If there's still a head on it, I'd say hammer on a slightly smaller socket and try an impact gun. If that breaks the head off, then drill the rest of the bolt out. You can use a heli-coil if you can't avoid damaging the threads in the case (or if they were damaged from a cross-threaded bolt).

The thing that works best on most stuck bolts is a little heat but that's tricky in this situation. I don't think I'd put a torch to my trans pan. Anyone know a good way to get some good focused heat on a bolt head in a place like that?

 

[EArp]

I tried the EZ out and it broke the end off the EZ out. I also tried to drive on a 7mm which is the next size smaller, but no such luck. Another thing that makes things difficult is that the bolt is surrounded on both sides by the trans pan on one side and the lip of the pan on the other, so it's hard to get tools in there. I think the EZ out could have worked better if I could get at the bolt more easily. As it was, the head of the drill was rubbing on the bottom of the trans pan and the EZ out would just barely reach the bolt.

 

[EArp]

Here's what I'm dealin with...

#ad


#ad


#ad

 

[MustangDiesel004]

If you have access to a welder you can try welding a nut to whats left of the bolt head. I had to do that to some suspension bolts on my mother-in-laws Dodge Stratus.

 

[Bob4x4]

They make sockets to deal with that issue. I would go with the snap on version but I hear the craftsman version is almost acceptable quality.

 

[BHanna]

I tried the EZ out and it broke the end off the EZ out.

That's why I don't like EZ Outs. The way that bolt head looks, I'm not sure it's still strong enough for a socket to do any good even if you could drive it on. I think the earlier idea of grinding a slot in it, then using a handheld impact driver is worth a try.



I also like the idea of welding a nut on there. That would heat up the bolt and that may help break it loose too. If you have a reusable rubber gasket, the heat may ruin it.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Take a pretty broad headed center punch and hit the bolt between the head and the flange in the un screw direction and I bet you can then just reach up and un screw it with your fingers. I have a set of those drive on sockets but it looks like there is not much head left on the bolt. bg

 

[Wingate]

That bolt will come out... its still in pretty good shape. Sounds like what has happened is just due to the fact that aluminum and steel really don't like each other and they REALLY don't play well together.

Take the biggest flat nosed punch you have and a 2-3lb hammer, put the punch right in the middle of the head of the bolt, shock it several times with the hammer. As others have suggested, get the standard equivilent socket in 6 pt. configuration, (I like to use impact sockets for this due to them being heavier walled, but slightly softer metal) and drive the socket ALL the way up on the bolt head, put a long handled ratchet on the socket and un-screw the bolt.

I have vise grips, but NEVER use them on bolts, (or open ended wrenches) due to if they slip, they shred the corners off of the bolt head.

Good Luck!

 

[MKinner]

Not sure if you have tried these easy outs, but I've had good luck with them. . Craftsman 14-piece Bolt-Out Set with Case

Good luck!

 

[ScottLewis]

Being basically cheap, I don't know if I'd spend $50 for tools I would seldom, if ever, use again. Harbor Freight has a similar set, much cheaper, that might work. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

[Hoefler]

Being basically cheap, I don't know if I'd spend $50 for tools I would seldom, if ever, use again. Harbor Freight has a similar set, much cheaper, that might work. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I have a Snap-On box full of tools. I would say over 10% of them are specialty tools designed for 1 specific purpose. I guarantee you, if you buy the cheap imitations of them, they will not perform as you expect. With that said, I would not hesitate on the name brand premium tool. In a situation like this. When the cheapy fails, it can and usually does, make the matter worse.

 

[Dieselnut59]

I have a Snap-On box full of tools. I would say over 10% of them are specialty tools designed for 1 specific purpose. I guarantee you, if you buy the cheap imitations of them, they will not perform as you expect. With that said, I would not hesitate on the name brand premium tool. In a situation like this. When the cheapy fails, it can and usually does, make the matter worse.

EXACTLY! I have all "name brand" tools, made in USA, Germany or Japan. Most are S &K, Snap On, MAC, Matco or Craftsman. Avoid the cheap stuff... there is a REASON it is cheap!

 

[ScottLewis]

In defense of being "cheap"

I often buy tools from Harbor Freight, especially if it's unlikely they will ever be used again. I've generally had good luck with them by choosing carefully. I do have a number of Snap-On, Proto, Craftsman tools as well.

If I was using them professionally or more frequently it might be a different story.



My frugality over the last 60 years has managed to allow me to live in a 6 year old house, nearly paid for. I drive a nice late model car and truck, and a fifth wheel I bought last year, all paid for with cash. I made a trip to Europe last year and travel throughout the US and into Canada whenever I want to. I have no debts other than my home and live a fairly comfortable retired life, all because I carefully evaluate where my funds are spent.



It works for me, quite well thank you. I hope your method works as well for you.



Dan

 

[Dieselnut59]

I often buy tools from Harbor Freight, especially if it's unlikely they will ever be used again. I've generally had good luck with them by choosing carefully. I do have a number of Snap-On, Proto, Craftsman tools as well.

If I was using them professionally or more frequently it might be a different story.



My frugality over the last 60 years has managed to allow me to live in a 6 year old house, nearly paid for. I drive a nice late model car and truck, and a fifth wheel I bought last year, all paid for with cash. I made a trip to Europe last year and travel throughout the US and into Canada whenever I want to. I have no debts other than my home and live a fairly comfortable retired life, all because I carefully evaluate where my funds are spent.



It works for me, quite well thank you. I hope your method works as well for you.



Dan

I live in an old restored farm house on 36 acres of land with a 4500 square foot shop I built 3 years ago. I owe 8 years on my mortgage and all the equipment I have listed in my sig is paid for. I have NO made in china tools, do not shop at cheap places like wal mart or harbor freight and am 36 years old. It is my firm belief that if we do not support our country and its manufacturing jobs, who will? I figure I am still young enough that if I ever need a tool again, I want it to work like when new. I shop by quality, not price. It pays off in the long run. That is what works for me!