Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I installed my RS9000 shocks today and also an RS5000 steering stabilizer (RS5404). I got the fronts on this afternoon and had to leave before I could get the rears on, the difference in the ride even with just the fronts changed was amazing! 
#ad
I finished the install tonight and drove it around town but I'll get a better feel tomorrow because I'll be going up the same bumpy rode I was on tonight and I drive it all the time. Plus I'll be off-roading heading out to put up some tree stands for bow season.
On to the install tips, this is on my '98. 5 2500 4x4. First thing I did was spray some penetrating oil on all the bolts and then started putting the shocks together so it had time to go to work.
Starting with the front shocks, first put the shock on #1 and pull it all the way out, then put it on #5. Then put the boot on - it just slides right on. I put the boot down on the shock far enough that the drain holes in the 2nd rib were at the top of the shock body. If you just put the boot down until it's tight water and crud will collect inside the boot and won't be able to drain out. I also pointed the drains towards the front and rear so that stuff would drain when parked on inclines (I park far more often on an incline or decline than leaning to one side). I personally set my shocks so that the adjusting knob was pointing to the rear of the truck on the front. They are a little more difficult to adjust that way but they are better protected from debris when off-roading and also salt spray during the winter (you make your own choice). I then put the zip tie on and put it so that the bulky part of the zip tie would be on the inside where you wouldn't see it. Then I put the sticker on so that it would be facing out.
For the rears it's a little harder to put the boot on. Put some liquid dishwashing detergent on the top eye and around the ring at its base. Then you have to force the boot over it. Then wipe off the dishwashing detergent. I also put the drain holes to the front and rear on these. Then decide which way you want the shocks to face. I pointed my knobs towards the axle (rearward on the passenger side and forward on the drivers side) - that seemed to be the most protected spot, but again harder to adjust the setting. Then put the sticker on, I recommend the driver's side sticker face to the rear and the passenger's side to face to the front (mine face's to the rear on the passenger side and you can hardly see it).
Then I put two coats of a good carnuaba wax on the shock tubes. Once they are installed you won't get the chance to do it again and it will help keep the finish looking good (again salt concerns - rust
#ad
).
Then the actual install, I started with the fronts because they are the hardest. I started with the passenger side and loosened the top nut on the stock shock (just using a socket and extensions). Then loosened the bottom bolt, the nut is a flag nut so you don't have to worry about a wrench for the back side. Next, I removed the 3 nuts from the shock tower and pulled the shock tower out of the way (just lay it to the side in the engine compartment). Then you have to get the shock out. Some may come easy, others you may need to pry. I used a large flat blade screw driver and pryed between the lower coils and the shock tube, alternating between front and rear until it released. Then just pull the shock out from the top. Now take the bottom bolt and make sure the sleeve will fit (in mine there was only one and it did fit). Then put some grease inside the bushing and on the outside of the sleeve, put the sleeve into the bushing by hand, and then use a c-clamp to drive it in the rest of the way. Then put a dab of grease inside the sleeve on the side you are going to put the bolt in through (or put some grease on the bolt), and on the sides of the bushing. Put one of the washer's on the top of the shock and then one of the red bushings. Put the shock on #1 so it's easier to move and drop the shock into the coil - mine fit in pretty easily. Slide the bottom bolt in and put the flag nut on the back side, just finger tighten it. Then put the shock tower over the shock and loosely install the three nuts on the shock tower. Then put the other red gromet on the shock shaft and then the other washer and finger tighten the nut. Tighten the lower bolt to 100 ft/lbs. Then tighten the shock tower nuts to 55 ft/lbs. Lastly tighten the nut on top of the shock - just tighten it down until the bushing sits even with the side of the washer. You also want to center the bushings in the hole in the top of the shock tower, wiggle it around as you tighten it until you drop into that.
Next was the driver's side, basically the same procedure as the passenger's side except it's a little tighter. There are clips on the hard lines running right by the fuse box that you can undo easily to make it easier to get a socket and extension on the top nut of the shock. After you get the top nut off of the shock you need to compress the shock as much as you can and use zip ties or safety wire to keep it collapsed. Then you can do the rest of the stuff and the shock will pull right out. Collapse the new shock down and install the same as the passenger's side. Don't forget to reconnect the clips on the hardlines if you undid them.
Then the rears, I removed my spare tire which gave me a lot of extra room - makes the job much easier. In the rear it's simply a matter of unbolting the old one and bolting in the new. On the passengers side you get the top bolt from outside the frame rail with an extension. The top nuts are flag nuts so you don't have to worry about getting a wrench on them. On the driver's side the axle vent is clipped right above the flag nut, just pull it off (it slides right off - no lock) and lay it to the side and then reconnect it when you're done. The rear shock bolts should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs.
Lastly was the stabilizer. You simply unbolt the old one and bolt in the new just like the rear. On the boot I put it on very far down so that when turning the wheel all the way to the right it doesn't pop off of the top of the stabilizer. I put the drain holes pointing up and drain and I also cut an extra drain hole in the last rib before the shock body. In my case only one of the sleeves that came with the shock fit the bolt so I used the sleeve that wouldn't fit to drive one of the sleeves out of the stock shock with a c-clamp and a socket.
That's all I can think of. Hope this helps you guys with your installs.
P. S. I also installed a brite box today and put the jumper on the fog lamp relay, so now I can have high and low beams plus fogs on at the same time. It's great#ad
- just like driving during the day now. I also detailed my interior getting ready for next weeks Scheid diesel rally, spent 13 hrs last saturday detailing the exterior!
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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, Prime-loc, SW fuel pressure gauge, boost & pyro gauges, muffler eliminator, polished valve cover, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Mag Hy-tec rear diff cover, Permatech liner, Grizzly SS nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's
[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 09-17-2000). ]
#adI finished the install tonight and drove it around town but I'll get a better feel tomorrow because I'll be going up the same bumpy rode I was on tonight and I drive it all the time. Plus I'll be off-roading heading out to put up some tree stands for bow season.
On to the install tips, this is on my '98. 5 2500 4x4. First thing I did was spray some penetrating oil on all the bolts and then started putting the shocks together so it had time to go to work.
Starting with the front shocks, first put the shock on #1 and pull it all the way out, then put it on #5. Then put the boot on - it just slides right on. I put the boot down on the shock far enough that the drain holes in the 2nd rib were at the top of the shock body. If you just put the boot down until it's tight water and crud will collect inside the boot and won't be able to drain out. I also pointed the drains towards the front and rear so that stuff would drain when parked on inclines (I park far more often on an incline or decline than leaning to one side). I personally set my shocks so that the adjusting knob was pointing to the rear of the truck on the front. They are a little more difficult to adjust that way but they are better protected from debris when off-roading and also salt spray during the winter (you make your own choice). I then put the zip tie on and put it so that the bulky part of the zip tie would be on the inside where you wouldn't see it. Then I put the sticker on so that it would be facing out.
For the rears it's a little harder to put the boot on. Put some liquid dishwashing detergent on the top eye and around the ring at its base. Then you have to force the boot over it. Then wipe off the dishwashing detergent. I also put the drain holes to the front and rear on these. Then decide which way you want the shocks to face. I pointed my knobs towards the axle (rearward on the passenger side and forward on the drivers side) - that seemed to be the most protected spot, but again harder to adjust the setting. Then put the sticker on, I recommend the driver's side sticker face to the rear and the passenger's side to face to the front (mine face's to the rear on the passenger side and you can hardly see it).
Then I put two coats of a good carnuaba wax on the shock tubes. Once they are installed you won't get the chance to do it again and it will help keep the finish looking good (again salt concerns - rust
#ad).
Then the actual install, I started with the fronts because they are the hardest. I started with the passenger side and loosened the top nut on the stock shock (just using a socket and extensions). Then loosened the bottom bolt, the nut is a flag nut so you don't have to worry about a wrench for the back side. Next, I removed the 3 nuts from the shock tower and pulled the shock tower out of the way (just lay it to the side in the engine compartment). Then you have to get the shock out. Some may come easy, others you may need to pry. I used a large flat blade screw driver and pryed between the lower coils and the shock tube, alternating between front and rear until it released. Then just pull the shock out from the top. Now take the bottom bolt and make sure the sleeve will fit (in mine there was only one and it did fit). Then put some grease inside the bushing and on the outside of the sleeve, put the sleeve into the bushing by hand, and then use a c-clamp to drive it in the rest of the way. Then put a dab of grease inside the sleeve on the side you are going to put the bolt in through (or put some grease on the bolt), and on the sides of the bushing. Put one of the washer's on the top of the shock and then one of the red bushings. Put the shock on #1 so it's easier to move and drop the shock into the coil - mine fit in pretty easily. Slide the bottom bolt in and put the flag nut on the back side, just finger tighten it. Then put the shock tower over the shock and loosely install the three nuts on the shock tower. Then put the other red gromet on the shock shaft and then the other washer and finger tighten the nut. Tighten the lower bolt to 100 ft/lbs. Then tighten the shock tower nuts to 55 ft/lbs. Lastly tighten the nut on top of the shock - just tighten it down until the bushing sits even with the side of the washer. You also want to center the bushings in the hole in the top of the shock tower, wiggle it around as you tighten it until you drop into that.
Next was the driver's side, basically the same procedure as the passenger's side except it's a little tighter. There are clips on the hard lines running right by the fuse box that you can undo easily to make it easier to get a socket and extension on the top nut of the shock. After you get the top nut off of the shock you need to compress the shock as much as you can and use zip ties or safety wire to keep it collapsed. Then you can do the rest of the stuff and the shock will pull right out. Collapse the new shock down and install the same as the passenger's side. Don't forget to reconnect the clips on the hardlines if you undid them.
Then the rears, I removed my spare tire which gave me a lot of extra room - makes the job much easier. In the rear it's simply a matter of unbolting the old one and bolting in the new. On the passengers side you get the top bolt from outside the frame rail with an extension. The top nuts are flag nuts so you don't have to worry about getting a wrench on them. On the driver's side the axle vent is clipped right above the flag nut, just pull it off (it slides right off - no lock) and lay it to the side and then reconnect it when you're done. The rear shock bolts should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs.
Lastly was the stabilizer. You simply unbolt the old one and bolt in the new just like the rear. On the boot I put it on very far down so that when turning the wheel all the way to the right it doesn't pop off of the top of the stabilizer. I put the drain holes pointing up and drain and I also cut an extra drain hole in the last rib before the shock body. In my case only one of the sleeves that came with the shock fit the bolt so I used the sleeve that wouldn't fit to drive one of the sleeves out of the stock shock with a c-clamp and a socket.
That's all I can think of. Hope this helps you guys with your installs.
P. S. I also installed a brite box today and put the jumper on the fog lamp relay, so now I can have high and low beams plus fogs on at the same time. It's great
#ad- just like driving during the day now. I also detailed my interior getting ready for next weeks Scheid diesel rally, spent 13 hrs last saturday detailing the exterior!
------------------
-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, Prime-loc, SW fuel pressure gauge, boost & pyro gauges, muffler eliminator, polished valve cover, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Mag Hy-tec rear diff cover, Permatech liner, Grizzly SS nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's
[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 09-17-2000). ]
