Rust Protection?

[LRDG]

I will take delivery of my truck in June. What's the ex-factory rust protection like on these vehicles? There's a lot of steel underneath and I'm wondering whether what you get ex-factory is any good or whether doing some extra on this is worth it (especially in the NE where road salt is an issue)



Do people use Waxoyl in the States or is there something newer / better ?

 

[rbattelle]

I did not get the factory rust protection, but am paranoid about rust. I have applied my own special rust protection. I painted parts of the underbody with Duplicolor truck bed coating, and the remainder with Rustoleum. I spray WD-40 periodically into the frame rails and the vent holes on the body. I apply white lithium grease to all the door hinges, and petroleum jelly to some of the crimped seams around the door edges. I inspect for new rust at every oil change, and re-spray flat-black Rustoleum on any spots that develop (I have several new ones since winter that need to be repaired). I painted most of the factory-unpainted front axle ends with Rustoleum. I did not paint the transmission case or driveshafts, so both are coated with a layer of rust. The transfer case has a heavy coating of oxidation, since I never painted that either. During oil changes, I wipe down the trackbar, tie-rod, drag links, and front/rear diff covers with an oily rag.



Is the factory system any good? I don't know, but usually I think it's just a big profit-generator for the dealer.

 

[NSperduto]

I don't know about this truck or if it helps or not, But I live in NJ and I have a 98 4X4 Dakota that has seen outside daily duty, snow, etc since Dec of 97. It has 165k on it and there's not a hint of rust anywhere on the body. And being I have a lift, I am always checking out the body from underneath.

I think the new cars have come along way with rust protection.



Nick

 

[Iguide]

Rust proof

When I bought my 03 one year ago I quickly came to the realization that without proper preventative preparation I would expense pitifully poor performance of lack of long life of the truck. The motor will last the longest with proper maintenance. So to help the rest of the truck last as long as possible rust proofing was one answer. Since I live in NH , which is notorious for excessive SALT. I checked into rust proofing. I plan on keeping this truck for a very long time & I can't afford to keep up with the "Jones" by trading and buying every couple years. I learned that rust proofing does not affect any body warranties. With proper inspections and touch ups it will make a serious difference if you plan to keep the truck long term. For me that means more than 10 or 12 years. Most likely much longer. They will last that long and someone ends up owning it, so why not me keeping my own well maintained vehicle for it's life. So why not take care of it. Studies have shown the cheapest way to own a vehicle is to by it new do regular scheduled, and preventative maintenance and you will spend much less money than any other approach. Personally I think I have as perfect a vehicle for long term investment and use as one can get. I got Tuffcoat. However I found out that rustproofing is something that is going out of style, there aren't many place's left that do it. the reason for this is two fold. first is that in this day and age most people only keep their vehicles on an average of 3 to 5 years. Second due to advances in metallurgy rust usually can be kept at bay for that amount of time. Where it used to be that people often kept vehicles longer than 5 yrs. and metallurgy was not so advanced and therefor rust was more evident.



It basically depends on what your intentions for your vehicle is. I kept my first ram 7 years before my wife was forced off the road while driving it which resulted in it being totaled. After 4 years it started showing little sings of rust which I treated with oil & grease, that kind of sort of kept it at bay. due to that learning experience and the fact I plan to keep this one as long as possible I got it undercoated. I don't need new bells & whistles every few years & I really like this truck. That's why I have done so many things for longevity. like changing all fluids over to Amsoil synthetics. It make a difference. Oo.

 

[midlife crisis]

Hold on, your gonna get opinion after opinion on this one. Here goes my . 02. I would not dream of having a new car and not taking it to Ziebart, and most importantly, HAVING IT DONE PROPERLY. No doubt, the newer cars have come a long way, and factory rust proofing hada hada hada... but I spent over 32K for this truck. I plan on keeping till one of use dies, so, another 350$ for the added protection, sound deading, better looks, and piece of mind is a no brainer. One rust spot repair at a quality body shop TODAY is easily 350$. 10 years from now it will be double that. Resale value should you decide to sell is another item. Now, all you nay sayers, go ahead and flame. But remember, this aint my first rodeo. I have seen this stuff work on personnel, municipal, work & beachgoing (daily) vehicles. Disclaimer: not affiliated in anyway with the aforementioned business.

 

[WM-300]

I had my truck Ziebart'ed on Dec 15 2003 when I bought it. I was under the truck today and its a rust bucket. transmission, drive lines, axles, rust in weld areas. For $45K I would think at least parts exposed to the road would have protection. The Ziebart is peeling in places. The Ziebart was done in Indiana, I live in NY so going back to the dealer and complaining is not an option.



Due to heavy rust on the above mentioned parts, paint will not stick well. I am going to use Rustoleum Rust Reformer and hit everything now covered with rust. Rest Reformer in gallon size can be bought from Graingers at an attrqctive price.



wm-300

 

[rbattelle]

I own one vehicle that was Ziebarted. The only thing holding it together is the paint. I have seen many vehicles on the salty salty roads in New England (where I'm from originally) with body panels falling off and a Ziebart sticker in the window. I offer no opinion about Ziebart... just those 2 objective facts.



Now comes the opinion. In my opinion, the best rust protection I've ever seen was a system called "Auto Armor", which was applied (not sure if it still is) to GM vehicles. I have seen vehicles with Auto Armor stickers that have some rust on them. But more often than not, I see cars with Auto Armor stickers and no rust. I'm talking cars from the '80s, not modern cars. If I could have purchased Auto Armor for my truck, I would have no question.

 

[midlife crisis]

Okay, we agree to disagree. Saw it coming. I can counter with many stories of known cars & trucks with positive results. I have also seen those that rusted with stickers in the window. Its these trucks I submit were NOT done correctly. Beyond the cleaning, and rust issues there PRIOR to application, it seems the job goes sour because the sprayer only shoots in a upward direction. Because the truck is on the lift, and lighting is poor, it is perceived as a completed job. I have repaired trucks from Cincinnati that lived their entire life in a parking lot with a plow and spreader on the back. Ziebarted when new (94) it was very rusty when I got it. Once the truck was torn down, it was obvious why. The tops and insides of the frame as well as wheel well lips were missed. Body panels were replaced from collision and never resprayed, touchups in other places that required. . never done. I still have my other 93 F150 in the barn. This was done in the fall of 92 by a retiring bodyman, and myself. The truck is in mint condition. I am cool with not everyone having faith in something I have had luck with. Just like so many other things in life. . if something works for YOU, than stick with it. If it doesnt, move on. I do wish you all good luck with whatever route you take.

 

[Yo Hoot]

A friend of mine some how sprays oil into the cab corners and tough rust areas every so often. Always had good luck with that.



I bought a couple of spray cans of Loctite Extend Rust Reformer. It's clear and works great on all the factory rust. I go over all the spots on the frame and suspension, making sure to spray inside all the welded on suspension brackets... scratched areas and obvious surface rust areas. I also sprayed all the spots on the axles and pumpkins. They missed a lot of spots.



Afterwords... I'll be spraying the axles with Duplicolor truck bed coating like rbattelle uses. I like all that stuff under there at least staying somewat rust free.



I haven't decided how to handle all the internal body cavity areas that are rust prone.



I used to wash my vehicles with a quart of kerosene in the washwater. This helps maintain a protective petroleum film in all the nooks and crannies that water naturally lays in.

 

[DGFoster]

Last time I had rust protection,I though I really had something til I took the door pads off to put in new speakers and there was one spray line across the middle of the door,I was p!ssed,I had to take it back 3 different times before they got it right.

 

[rbattelle]

I really want to believe that the rust protection systems (such as Ziebart) do work. I think they probably do, but the installation must be done carefully. Lack of consciencious work on the part of the installer is precisely the reason I don't like taking my truck to anyone else for mechanical work, so I stay away from the rust places too. If I could find someone who does it right, I'd go there. Midlife... do you work for a place in Cincy?

 

[midlife crisis]

Now that I agree with!! No, my bro in law is a fraud investigator for CinnFinn. Take care-

 

[nickleinonen]

krown rust control products... . works real well

 

[LRDG]

Thanks guys - divided opinion on Ziebarts but some good tips.



I guess Waxoyl isn't available or popular in the States... . Has anyone gone as far as doing chassis and axles with POR15 or is that overkill?



All I know is Land Rovers - bodies are aluminium so no worries there - but the chassis will rust like a barsteward given a chance - Waxoyl and POR15 are the only things I know that do the trick and they're both a bit of ***** to work with...

 

[OHale]

The body paint on my '95 has held up extremely well but I have been fighting rust on the frame, axles, shock towers, etc. for years. I have been in a salted winter road environment for the last 7 years.



I have used POR-15 on my '95. It is the best I have used. I was getting a lot of rust on the frame and it was visible from the wheel wells.



I had been wire brushing the rust and using Loctite Extend. There would be a rust conversion and I would spray paint over it with enamel Rustoleum. The rust would be back in a year or two.



The POR I applied to the frame and shock towers a few years ago is solid. It is expensive and I recommend you buy the POR prep chemicals too. POR is one more reason I chose a black truck. I am getting a few body scratches and chips here and there that rust in the local salt environment. The POR matches the color and stops the rust.



I also used POR on the rear differential and the cover of the front. The price really isn't that bad when one considers the treatment is going to last years. Just my 0. 02, adjusted for inflation.



The POR is very toxic, especially if you spray it. There are handling instructions and cautions that come with it. I painted mine on with a sponge brush, outdoors. The little bit I got on myself took about a week to wear off. If you spray it you will need respiratory protection.

 

[rbattelle]

I have used POR-15 and find it to be of very very high quality. Haven't used it on this truck because of the extensive prep work required. Plus the stuff is really "runny"... hard to paint upside down.