2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rust!!!

[EdK]

I have a good size rust spot coming through the lower portion of the driver's side front fender, just in front of the door on my '99. I'm always careful to flush out between the door and fender liner (door open) when I wash the truck.



Is there a drain possibly plugged that I don't see? Passenger side seems OK.



Ed

 

[SRath]

I don't have an answer to that, Ed, but I sure understand the concern. My driver side door bottom did the same thing while my passenger side remained pristine.



I can speculate that it might be due to better or worse coating during production.



I spent the bucks for a CounterAct corrosion control system this past fall. I also removed all interior panels and sprayed a ton of waxy rustproofing into every nook, cranny, and seam I could. Then reundercoated with some pretty darned tough Marhyde rubberized undercoating.



I paid for a full Ziebart treatment right after I bought the truck, but I'm doing all I can short of not driving it at all in the winter to preserve my Dodge. I must drive it in the worst conditions; it is my plow truck.



So far, given what I and the heavy salt and liquid sodium chloride treatment they use around here has put it through, I must say that this Dodge is the most corrosion resistant vehicle I have ever owned.



What I liked about the CounterAct sales pitch was how it should even help preserve the fuel and brake lines, which I have read plenty of members have problems with rusting out. It will also protect those inner seams where no topical treatment can reach, if their claims are true. And it will supposedly slow existing rust way down.



Did I waste $300? Only time will tell. But I do know it is worth a shot since I intend for this Dodge to be my last truck. I spent far more than that on Ziebart, and they are now defunct.



Sorry to have nothing but speculation and a suggestion to maybe check out the CounterAct and decide for yourself.



By the way, CounterAct, though electronic, is NOT the same thing as a cathodic system which works well on ships, pipelines, and other things constantly exposed to moisture, but does not work well on vehicles. Same principle, but a different, and supposedly more effective, approach.



Good luck with stopping the rust.

 

[abranz]

Found a product which I applied to all my vehicles named Fluid Film which is a lanolin liquid wax you apply with a spray gun. It's very inexpensive, applies easily, and I have no rust anywhere, not even the driveshafts/axel tubes, tie rods, etc. in spite of the salt treatment all winter long. Do a search on yahoo for it, you will be impressed.



Anthony

 

[BudPhoto]

I live a little north of where you are. Could recommend body shops up here that are good, but you have plenty of those in your neighborhood. After the body work is complete, you may want to have the truck oil sprayed. There are two in the Akron area that I know of and many more that a simple google search may find. oil spray - Google Search
This one is for Akron and your area may show closer ones. Have been having this done to my vehicles for over 20 years and found it to reduce rust. My 2002 truck does not have the rust on the doors that a lot of them have.

Good luck

 

[Signal73]

Found a product which I applied to all my vehicles named Fluid Film which is a lanolin liquid wax you apply with a spray gun. It's very inexpensive, applies easily, and I have no rust anywhere, not even the driveshafts/axel tubes, tie rods, etc. in spite of the salt treatment all winter long. Do a search on yahoo for it, you will be impressed.



Anthony

How often do you have to apply? Does it wear off after driving in a few rainstorms?

 

[RHestand]

I also have some questions re. undercoating on my 06. Next winter I will be living in N. Wi.

(This might be a one time thing. ) Anyway as far as I know I don't have any factory or dealer inst. rust protection.

I don't see any, and I didn't pay for any.

I would like info. on a good system that can be applied effectively on a truck that is not factory new and clean on the under-side. It's never been in snow and only a little bit of mud, so it's not too bad.

Thanks for any info on this.

Ray

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Hee's how I take care of lower body and door seams:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...3-heading-off-rust-along-door-body-seams.html



All the lower door edges and seams of my '02 are still virgin and pristine! :-laf:-laf

 

[Houser]

Had the same problem on my 02. Started getting rust bubbles just in front of the drivers side door. I think it was caused by battery juice being washed down the inside of the fender. Cost me a grand to get the fender replaced. Thought I was the only one.

Houser.

 

[SRath]

That Fluid Film abranz recommended sounds very impressive on their website. Their test results and accredidation with the military and NASA and aircraft companies says alot. I'll be stopping by a local dealer to get some to try (on all kinds of things!). I hope to find someone other than John Deere to buy from, though ($$$$).



I have in mind a great set of torture tests for it on certain parts of my semi which I have to spray, lube, and/or grease daily just to keep the corrosion from making my job tougher. Parts that are constantly hammered by salt spray, sand, road grime, water, you-name-it. If it can hold up on those parts, it will be the first and only thing to do so.



It's amazing how despite technology and great advances in synthetic materials, including lubricants, some of the best stuff is still the old-fashioned natural stuff. Fluid Film is lanolin (wool wax) based, and supposedly outperforms all the high-tech synthetics according to the testing by NASA and such. When it comes to winter socks, coats, gloves, clothing I still believe in wool over most any other insulator since it still insulates even when wet. Few, if any, modern insulators can claim that. Gotta love those sheep... :-laf (did I actually say that?!)



Thanks for the tip, abranz!



Gary: That Chain Wax really is great stuff, too. We have used it on our dirt bike chains for years and nothing we've tried penetrates, stays, or protects and lubes better even with the frequent mud races and powerwashings. I never thought of using it for rust protection on sheet metal until you suggested it, though.

 

[CochranD]

rust fighter

Amsoil sells this called heavy MP. It comes in large cans and goes on easy. Ive bought a case every year for about 8 years now and spray it on the frame and everything else. My 97 has no rust at all anywhere.

Here in PA , there really put a rediculus amount of salt down. #@$%!

 

[SBall]

New recipe for Fluid Film

I had been reading previous posts about Fluid Film and started a program last fall where I applied it to the underside of my vehicles with a paint sprayer to fend off rust and corrosion. I found that if the Fluid Film was warm and stirred up somewhat, I could apply it with my Sears paint sprayer, (compressed air source).



While also being challenged with rust issues, we have been plagued with rodent issues as well. Over the years the mice have chewed through my wife's Passat fuel line near the catalytic converter where when under pressure, nearly set the car on fire! The mice have also chewed the wiring in my truck and Miata setting off the CHL at times. They've chewed my sound insulation under the hood, and the ground hogs have been chewing off my undercoating! (caught in the act)#@$%!



My wife then told me about how mice and squirrels hate cayenne pepper and this got me to thinking..... :-laf I thought if I could only make my vehicles, (the underside undercoating, the wiring, and the sound insulation blanket), taste unappealing, it might deter the lousy pests. I just needed a carrier agent to apply and hold the pepper. I thought of my Fluid Film.



My recipe consisted of my warmed up Fluid Film (which smells sweet by the way) and a few tablespoons of my wife's fine-grained cayenne pepper powder. She assured me that I didn't need too much. I mixed it thoroughly and sprayed it on. For the hood liner, I sprayed just enough to dampen the material and it dried to the touch over the next couple of days.



So far there appears to be no further rodent damage, but time will tell if this solution works so stay tuned. I haven't tasted the vehicle s as yet to see if they're a little too hot for my preference, but it definitely changed the way it smells during the application. In fact, if you attempt this, you must wear a respirator as the airborne pepper will definitely irritate your lungs.



This should qualify as one of the most whacky ideas of the year, but ... ...

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

This should qualify as one of the most whacky ideas of the year, but ... ...

Not at all - sometimes the "whacky ideas" are the most practical and valuable - in this case, just ask someone who also faces expensive rodent damage to wiring and other vehicle areas... :-laf:-laf

 

[MFalkinham]

That Fluid Film abranz recommended sounds very impressive on their website. Their test results and accredidation with the military and NASA and aircraft companies says alot. I'll be stopping by a local dealer to get some to try (on all kinds of things!). I hope to find someone other than John Deere to buy from, though ($$$$).

Here's where I buy mine online (by the gallon).

Fluid Film - Lawn Mower Parts

 

[SRath]

Thanks for the good info, guys!



I have a '69 Camaro stored in my garage and the mice and me are at war! That pepper and fluid film combo just might be the answer to my storage problems. I'll check out that Lawn Mower Parts seller, too.



And groundhogs?! The devil's own pets!#@$%!



Last summer, I was looking like Bill Murray in "Caddyshack" as I battled with groundhogs undermining my shop, chewing right through the wall, and destroying everything it/they could sink their incredibly long and sharp teeth into (Until they bit into a live 220 volt cord it appeared). What a mess!



Finally, while raking leaves in the fall, the neighbor kid was over helping my boys, and his stocky little 25 pound mongrel dog somehow got ahold of groundhogzilla next to my shop. It was bigger than he was, but that mutt is all heart and tough as a Marine. All h*** broke loose in an instant!



My Golden Retriever jumped in, then thought better of it (a wussie, but a smart wussie).

So I jumped in.

In one split second, a lightening fast slash of those wicked razor teeth laid my jeans leg open about 9 inches like tissue paper and I jumped right back out, understanding clearly how "misguided" I had been in trying to stomp it's head! Only my wellington boot holding the pant leg away from my skin saved my leg from the same treatment.



Finally my son grabbed a rifle and we made a good groundhog out him. That little mutt would not let go the entire time, even after it was dead, and dragged the darned thing 1/4 mile to his own home as a "gift" for his "dad", my neighbor and buddy... :-laf



But that groundhog almost cost that pup his eye, missing it by a fraction of an inch as he bit completely through the tough little guy's eyebrow and cheek. That little dog accomplished in a few furious seconds what I had been unable to with traps, snares, guns, poison smoke bombs, and sincere cursing and threats all summer. I later came across this photo of a groundhog skull...



... Evil incarnate?

 

[SBall]

And groundhogs?! The devil's own pets!#@$%!



... Evil incarnate?

SRath,

At the risk of hijacking this thread on rust, I wanted to share my recipe of Fluid Film and rodent control. After reading your post, I'm certainly glad I did, as I really enjoyed reading about your exploits with that ground hog. I nearly busted a gut laughing!



I hope the recipe works for you.



Steve

 

[Jetson]

There is a fender bolt at the bottom of the fender in front of the door. If you take that bolt out, you can get all kinds of crap out of the bottom of the fender that gets trapped there.

 

[stg2500]

My truck also has the infamous rust on the doors. I guess the winters in New England take their toll on vehicles even when we baby them. With 198k it's time to do some repair work on them. Anyone tried the repair panels from LMC truck? If so how was the fit? Any pictures of the repairs or advice?

 

[Signal73]

Anyone tried the repair panels from LMC truck? If so how was the fit? Any pictures of the repairs or advice?

I used the rocker panel's from them and the fit was horrble.....

 

[abranz]

Some follow up for everyone. I buy the gallon size of fluid film for about $25. It takes about 1 or 2 quarts to completely cover the underside of a full sized truck. The trans dept heavily applies salt to the roads at least three times daily where we live. I have no visible rust other than exhaust clamps and our truck is driven daily. It does not wash off and it should be applied every one to two years. There is very little prep. Just hose off the bottom, let it dry and apply. I use a cheep 30 dollar spray gun I originally bought for primer. Over the past 8 yrs I've used por 15 and rust bullet with not so good results, especially on hitches/painted steel. Those products pale in comparison to what I'm seeing with fluid film. Furthermore there are no harmful solvents when spraying/applying and it's far less expensive. This summer, I plan on removing the door panels and applying it inside the doors similar to what many european vehicles have. I am in no way affiliated with the company, I just utterly hate rust! It kills far more vehicles than anything else and I love my vehicles. So far I'm very impressed! Hell, there is not even rust on the diff cover/drivelines/tie rods/calipers/backing plates/hitch/wheel rims/lug nuts which always rust fast.

Anthony in ID

 

[abranz]

Just another note. I did not intend to bash/be-little other rust prevention products in my post. I applied "rust bullet" on the entire inside of my trucks and it has held very well with no signs of rust. The paints just have not held up very well on the outside/underside very well. And yes I prepped the metal surfaces properly as rec. prior to application. Salt is just very corrosive and this wax/oil/lanolin product is working well.

Anthony