2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rusted brake line replacement

[vahunters]

Today I replaced my rusted steel brake lines with Fedhillusa brakelines. I am a newbie with brake lines and this was not as difficult as I thought it would be.
This project started due to my rear brake line rusting through and rupturing under the driver seat area. I found out while inspecting the broken line that this line was spliced by the previous owner with brass plumbing fittings and unflared brake line. :-{}
I am glad that my brake lines broke before camping season so my family was not in an unsafe vehicle.
I decided rather than dropping the gas tank to route the one piece section to the rear fitting above the frame rail. I have also wrapped the line in rubber tubing to keep it from wear and tear.
Fedhill brake lines are so easy to work with and their flaring tool was so easy to use. Fedhill will rent the flaring tool for $25 so you dont have to buy it. If anyone is considering replacing their brake lines you should consider Fedhillusa because the brake line can be bent by hand, at extreme angle without kinking, and will not rust. Thanks to TDR member Dave who had the brake line fitting sizes documented which removed a lot of the brain pain for me.

 

[SDrake]

Today I replaced my rusted steel brake lines with Fedhillusa brakelines. I am a newbie with brake lines and this was not as difficult as I thought it would be.

This project started due to my rear brake line rusting through and rupturing under the driver seat area. I found out while inspecting the broken line that this line was spliced by the previous owner with brass plumbing fittings and unflared brake line. :-{}

I am glad that my brake lines broke before camping season so my family was not in an unsafe vehicle.

I decided rather than dropping the gas tank to route the one piece section to the rear fitting above the frame rail. I have also wrapped the line in rubber tubing to keep it from wear and tear.

Fedhill brake lines are so easy to work with and their flaring tool was so easy to use. Fedhill will rent the flaring tool for $25 so you dont have to buy it. If anyone is considering replacing their brake lines you should consider Fedhillusa because the brake line can be bent by hand, at extreme angle without kinking, and will not rust. Thanks to TDR member Dave who had the brake line fitting sizes documented which removed a lot of the brain pain for me.

I needthe fitting sizes but there are a bunch of Daves. Do you have more info or a link. I visited the Fedhillusa site and like what I saw.

 

[kenny61]

While your checking / replacing lines check em by the left front fender well between the frame mount points and the master cylinder.

 

[vahunters]

Drake, Dave E is the member who wrote up the fitting sizes. I know my 2nd Gen had both double flares and bubble flares- mixture of metric and standard fittings. I did have to reuse one or two fittings which were in good condition because I did not have new ones. Another way is to check the fittings with box end wrenches and write down what they are. Tim at Fedhill will have a good idea of what you need.

Kenny, good call. I replaced the lines from the master cylinder down to the ??distribution block? no idea what the smaller blocks next to master cylinder is and then to the front and rear split. No leaks so far. This job took me , a novice, about 8 hours but I was taking my time and trying not to make any rookie errors.

 

[SDrake]

What kind of situations did you run into as far as attaching clips? One frustration with some jobs I light into is other stuff breaks, and I have to improvise something to complete the job so so I can get on the road. . . subtracts from the anticipipated job satisfaction.

 

[vahunters]

Drake,
I knew going into this that if anything broke it was going to be ok and the end result will be much better than what I had. I get frustrated too as we must have the same luck. It all starts with fixing one thing and end up breaking something expensive happens to me most of the time.
The tools that really helped me to complete this job, Pb Blaster, FedHillsusa-flare-line and fittings, air compressor-impact wrench, dremel tool, 3/8", 7/16",11mm,12mm open end wrenchs and a few others sizes.
Regarding clips; The rear brake line was originally run on the inside of the frame and had clips that were also attached to the fuel lines. I made the decision not to drop the tank but to route the brake line in one complete section to the rear brake fitting. I have wrapped the brake line in a split ( razor knifed) rubber hose that will cover this brake line to keep it from rubbing or contact with anything else. I am then plastic tie-ing the brake line to fittings along the frame rail. The toughest part for me was the short brake lines with a ton of bends and angles from the master cylinder and junction box. I just took my time and only had one snafu when i flared the line and forgot to put the brake fitting on. A dremel tool comes in real handy for cutting. The results are significant as my braking has improved and is not as spongy as it was. Plus with the money I saved I also removed the old rear original shocks and put two news one in today. Next project is to replace the front shocks. I am thinking I might want to put in a leveling kit in the front. I need to do some more research on the benefits of a leveling kit and then which ones are best and most user friendly to install.

 

[vahunters]

Drake,
I forgot to mention. what really got me working on this project is that the dealership wanted $500 dollars to fix ONE brake line. I had already shelled out $1,400 to the dealer ship to fix my front end and felt like I got worked over. so I decided to turn the wrench myself and to save some dough and to test myself and get a chance to buy some new tools.

 

[SDrake]

Drake,

I forgot to mention. what really got me working on this project is that the dealership wanted $500 dollars to fix ONE brake line. I had already shelled out $1,400 to the dealer ship to fix my front end and felt like I got worked over. so I decided to turn the wrench myself and to save some dough and to test myself and get a chance to buy some new tools.

I did T-steering for about 400, Ball Joints and front u-joints a few years ago for pocket change, on and on it goes. If I had the money a dealer would have charged for most of the repairs I have done i could pay cash for a new truck. Another that comes to mind is the the $600 transmission fluid tubing was done with about $50 dollars in hydraulic hose and fittings. Larry -B fuel shutoff solenoid kit, the starter kit on and on it goes with dealer expensive beyond belief yet parts available elsewhere for very little.



I appreciate your extra response to my questions about clipw etc. I always enjoy doing a job much more when I am prepared to do some improvising such as you mentioned about the tubing, ties etc. One reason I need to be self sufficient on the brake lines is when the day comes that the ABS brake stuff cant be fixed. I will just plumb the brakes back to standard and dump the ABS. I have heard that the sensors are not available etc,

 

[vahunters]

My truck has a unique component-called a brake valve height adjustment?- the dealer didn't even know the name and struggled to find it in the system. The part is $530 to replace it. Luckily it is not broke but if it did I am changing the rear brakes out to disc. A sense of humor is definitely required when working on these trucks.

 

[kenny61]

Are you talking about the part that goes on the rearend that adjust rear braking in proportion to the load?

 

[ChrisOlson]

My truck has a unique component-called a brake valve height adjustment?- the dealer didn't even know the name and struggled to find it in the system. The part is $530 to replace it. Luckily it is not broke but if it did I am changing the rear brakes out to disc. A sense of humor is definitely required when working on these trucks.

VA hunter

that do hickey is called a porportioning Valve It is supposed to add more back brake as more load is applied to the bed of the truck, a large source of conversation and heartach here for the 2nd gen owners Please keep us advised as to your rear brake conversion Please, The rear brake conversion, new Brake lines, and a DExcelerator will be my truck upgrades this year, I will find some info for the Porportioning valve and post it for you.



Chris

 

[vahunters]

Thanks Chris. I was wondering what it was called and what it did. The porportioning valve is mounted to the frame above the rear axle and although my frame is not hardly rusted the PV is totally rusted and corroded. Dodge used some really cheap metal on that item and the brake lines which is disappointing. I wonder if I need that Pvalve if I change the rear from drum to disc brakes?

 

[SDrake]

Thanks Chris. I was wondering what it was called and what it did. The porportioning valve is mounted to the frame above the rear axle and although my frame is not hardly rusted the PV is totally rusted and corroded. Dodge used some really cheap metal on that item and the brake lines which is disappointing. I wonder if I need that Pvalve if I change the rear from drum to disc brakes?

My 94 doesn't have that valve. Perhaps that is because it has the ABS option. If so then I just realized I may not be in good shape just replacing lines to the ABS pump (when it fails) with lines directly from the master cylinder to the brakes. I will need the proportioning valve. More to learn about.

 

[The patriot]

Are you talking about the part that goes on the rearend that adjust rear braking in proportion to the load?

The rod that was attached to mine all but fell off. I wire tied the valve in the up pos.

They work better.