2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rusted brake lines

[dward]

My 50k mi 02 was an Iowa farm truck and has a lot of rust on the underside.
I'm chipping away at getting her back to looking and running good.
I'm not having any problems, but I'm sure its just a matter of time before the badly rusted brake lines spring a leak.
I would like to replace all the steel and rubber lines and probably go ahead with new calipers, rotors and pads.
I did a search and it looks like there are a couple of companies that offer factory replacement lines. EPA looks like a good option?
Also, and companies for rotors and calipers to go with or stay away from?
I'm debating having the work done if the price is right, or I feel confident its something I could do since I don't need the truck and can have it apart as long as needed.
Is it a straight forward operation replacing parts and bleeding the system or is there procedures or equip needed that I'd be better off paying to have it done?

 

[Joe Mc]

Back in 06 the line along the frame rail, back to front, rusted out. I replaced with steel line in my driveway, was able to fish out the old line and bend up a new one with a tubing bender and the old line as a template. I tie wrapped the new to the old as I bent and got lucky enough to fish new line back in place. About a year ago same line blew again. This time I used Ni-cad (pretty sure that's what it was called) line it's rust resistant and a bit softer so easier to work with and OEM compliant. Picked it up at NAPA, cost is between their steel and stainless line and uses same as stock fittings. Going forward this is the only type of line I'll use.

 

[The patriot]

Yea, I remember that line. I dropped the fuel tank to do that one.
I've used the nickel/copper lines exclusively.
They're a little more $$$ but they're easy to work with and more importantly,,,,they LAST!

 

[turbo torque]

N/C The only way to go. Easy to work with & never do it again. Well worth the $$$

 

[RHulette]

Try sstubes.com. I just did my 99 quad cab with the rear line in stainless. Pre-bent and fit perfectly. Stainless is the way to go!

 

[Joe Mc]

No, no, N/C is the way to go...LOL Whatever floats the boat. For me bang for the buck.

 

[gcorron]

Put me in the nickel copper category! I had never seen them until I bought an old Volvo 240, it's what Volvo uses OEM and they are fantastic!!!!! Easy to work, and never rust.
The rear brake line, between the tank and frame, blew on me a few years ago in a "pressure" situation, think 25 ton tandem right in front of you, pedal went right to the floor! Ruined BVD's, bit hole in seat!!
Luckily, former training made me grab the emergency brake handle and pump the pedal and got it stopped.....barely.
It's a known issue categorized as 'poor engineering'.
I learned to replace brake (and fuel) lines long ago. you need a bending tool, and a double flaring tool for brakes. I've found bleeding to be fairly easy, but I don't have anti-locks.

George