Rusty Bolts Pyro install

[GMills]

I plan on installing a pyro pre turbo and have taken a look at the manifold to turbo bolts. Very rusty! Any tips on getting them out without twisting off the heads and then being f..... ed. When I start and 'easy' job like this it usually turns bad.

 

[BillGotthelf]

Try using a good penetrating lube-but why are you taking it off? You can drill and tap the manifold right on the engine. Use a vacum and put anti-seize on the bit. 99% of the metal will be sucked up in the vac and stick to the drill bit. Then coat the tap with anti-sieze and tap the hole. I have installed dozens of egt probes this way and never had a problem. Any metal left in the manifold passes through without harming turbo. Much less of a problem than breaking off a manifolb bolt in the head.

 

[illflem]

I've never had a problem with the bolts although one head is a little hard to get at.

Use good penetrating oil and you won't have a problem.

After personally knowing of three turbos getting ruined by a loose chip wedging in-between the housing and turbine, stopping it dead then heat warping it I would never consider anything other than removing the turbo. Also talked to a couple of guys who decided to remove the turbo after the magnet and greased tap method, both said they found missed chips. That's why all the pyro manufacturers say to remove the turbo, so their butt is covered if you are the one out of a hundred souls who isn't lucky.

 

[Paychk]

PB Blaster and follow the directions on the can! This is the best penetrant that I've found in 28 years of wrench turning. IMHO

 

[Briar Hopper]

Alan is right, that PB spray penetrant is great stuff, but man does it stink. Pee-Yew. We use a lot of it at the shop. WalMart, K-Mart, Auto Zone all have it on the shelf.

I've drilled and tapped more than 70 manifolds for pyro probes, never a problem to this date. On two occasions, I removed the turbo afterwards, and didn't find enough chips to worry about.

 

[bighammer]

Also they look intimidating when viewed from the top--All rusty and nasty. When I replaced my turbo, I found out they're studs and the nuts come off the bottom pretty easily.



I drilled and tapped for my pyro with grease on the bit and used a magnetic pick-up tool to sort of "sweep" the inside after. Clearances on the exhaust side of the turbo are not as close as the intake side, and any small bits would get blown out before it's spinning fast.

 

[TowPro]

I did not remove the turbo to do mine. Drill slow using a good shop vac to suck away any drilling chips I also used greese on the drill bit to catch some chips and kept cleaning it as I went.



Then i use a magnet through the hole to pick up any chips that the vacuum missed.



Use plenty of greese on the tap and keep backing it out, cleaning and applying more greese. Clean the hole again with the magnet and vacuum.



I know I am not the only one who has done it this way.

 

[CRSmith]

I also vouch for pb blaster. It looks like snake oil, but really works. To drill for my probe, I removed the turbo to manifold bolts and just spaced the turbo away from the manifold about an inch. Then I put a piece of cardboard in front of the turbo inlet. After I was done drilling and tapping, and the probe was in, I started up the truck, revved it a few times, and blew all the metal chips out between the crack. Thats my ghetto way of doing it.

 

[illflem]

Beware of PB Blaster

It's good stuff but I found out the hard way yesterday that it also removes paint very well.

 

[Hohn]

Yeah PB is great stuff and smells FANTASTIC! Kroil is also some great penetrating oil.



The PB is my personal favorite-- nothing else smells as good.



You want to be careful of anything that will make styrofoam dissolve and sizzle



Hohn

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

I did mine almost exactly like TowPro. I didn't use a vacuum, though. Put a little grease on the bit, drilled a little, cleaned off shavings, repeated numerous times. Cleaned off bit again just before going all the way through. Then used a magnet through the hole to clean up any possible shavings inside. It worked, or I would have had a good excuse to get an HX-40.



Jim

 

[cmckinney]

I too did the non removal method.



I placed a magnet next to the drill bit so it picked up the shavings as I drilled. Stoped drilling half way through cleaned the magnet and bit. Then drilled through and cleaned out the shavings on the inside.



Very easy and no problems to date.



-CM

 

[Bandit1]

i second what towpro did, jsut installed my dual setup the other weekend and i couldnt get the bolts off, all is fine.

 

[wlowe]

Vacuum, grease and magnet for me too. Worked great! Don't forget to put some anti-sieze on the pyro probe threads.

 

[d90boy]

PB Blaster is good oil but I really think Kroil is the best. I haven't tried any of the specialty ones such as Amsoil's or Royal Purple's etc. Finding Kroil in a store is like finding treasure.

 

[Hohn]

Eastwood Co. has Kroil in both 16oz aerosol and gallon containers. The stuff is awesome.



HOHN



www.eastwoodco.com

 

[NETim]

Lubriplate Chain lube spray

Kinda sorta off topic but penetrating oil has been discussed some here already.



I needed some chain lube for my bike and my local industrial supply house directed me to the Lubriplate shelf. I've always been a big fan of Lubriplate products so this was an easy sell.



This stuff is sold as a spray lube. It is also billed as a penetrating oil and a good tapping/drilling oil. It came in handy the other day when a stubborn front brake rotor wouldn't come off on my wife's LHS.



It's off to a good start and it doesn't stink either.



Tim

 

[illflem]

I use gallons of Lubriplate liquid graphite on ag equipment roller chains. Even though the chain manufacturers recommend oil type lube I just can't stand the sound of the grit and dust attracted by the oil crunching though the gears. The graphite has worked great with a once a year application.



I used 100% pure Teflon on my bike chains, came in a large syringe. Like graphite it doesn't attract grit and won't wash off. Last time I tried to get some they told me it wasn't made anymore.

 

[Hohn]

Gotta love the EPA. Same reason you can't get the REAL LEAD additive 104+ used to sell just a few years back. My old Mopar LOVED that real lead additive.



HOHN

 

[NETim]

Kroil

I've never used it but Kroil has found favor amongst shooters as a barrel cleaning agent, particularly if moly coated bullets are used. Kroil can be purchased from Midway Arms and Cabela's to name but two. So it can be had!



Tim