2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rusty Brake Line

[Joe Mc]

Recently installed Vulcan Draw StrawOo. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/servlet/StoreFront and while the tank was down I noticed the brake line to the RWAL unit was totally rusty:{, not to the point of leaking - yet. So I was wondering if anyone has ever changed the line that runs between frame rail and tank with the tank in place as I'm sure you can imagine I'd hate to take the tank "back" out.

I could get the correct length, or darn close, @ NAPA and make the bends. Or, I could buy the factory part. I've been wondering if replacing the lines with larger diameter ones would improve the rear braking?

Any advice/additional thoughts/experiences welcome.

 

[Joe Mc]

You're kidding me? Nobody?

 

[Joe Mc]

So tell me Joe Mc, how's it going? Like a tea and crumpet maybe? How's your mum?

So I guess I'll fukure this one out/up :-laf on my own - probably just best to get new line from NAPA and pretzel it in there.

 

[tp0d]

I`ll throw out an answer... heh



If the lines are sammich'd between the tank and frame, the only way to do it right would be to drop the tank. You should maintain close to the same length and size, as the proportioning valves are setup this way. Brakes dont need a large diameter to work better, its all on pressure.



Napa lines are all ya need, the others are just overpriced. Hit em with a little rubberized undercoat before resetting the tank, and no more rust.



good luck



-j

 

[Extreme1]

If the lines are sammich'd between the tank and frame, the only way to do it right would be to drop the tank. You should maintain close to the same length and size, as the proportioning valves are setup this way. Brakes dont need a large diameter to work better, its all on pressure.



Napa lines are all ya need, the others are just overpriced. Hit em with a little rubberized undercoat before resetting the tank, and no more rust.



good luck



-j

Pretty much ditto. If the fuel level is low enough (below E a needle width on mine) it's fast and easy to drop the tank. I have a flat plate attachment for my floor jack which helps.



Do the fuel lines while you're there too, they're next.

 

[Joe Mc]

Thanks guys - I kind figured the best to do was just replace w/same as stock but, if you don't ask you don't find out if anyone's tried something else. The scarry thing is I wouldn't have seen the rust if I wasn't upgrading the draw straw, as the lines are fine except between the frame rail and the metal fuel lines (at least the stock ones remaining anyway) are fine - go figure. I remove the tank to upgrade fuel system and those lines are OK, however, in doing so I notice something else that needs to be fixed. Sometimes it don't pay to get outta bed.

Thanks again

 

[rowilson]

Sure you can do it. This happened to my brother in law's truck on the way to IRP. Ralph's brake and muffler shop near Indy did this without removing the tank and bled the brakes in under and hour.

 

[Joe Mc]

Cool! Thanks for the moral support.

 

[SFrey]

i have the same problem with my 97, all the brake lines are rusty, in fact when i did mt steering column bushing i hit the line coming up to the master cylinder. i have a complete set of s. s. factory pre-bent coming from a supplier i deal with. it includes all the hardlines on the truck, sells for $215. 00



scot

 

[sstefanini]

S. S. prebent for $215? Who or where are these sold. I had to piece my rear line back together w/ 3 five foot lengths of 3/16" tubing, and add 6 new double flare joints to 1 line. I was ready to replace this monstrosity the minute I finished it.

 

[PRattenbury]

If someone's selling lines in SS prebent, I'd sure like to know who it is. I need to replace all my crusty lines.

 

[jmorse]

I have a 99 3500 cab & chassis that I had to replace the the brake line going to rear axle. I did not remove the tank and was able to snap it in the original plastic clips on the frame rail. I used a long pry bar to reach the clips behind the tank and unsnap the line. I installed the same way.

 

[SFrey]

i have them avalible, they are cnc bent to factory specs, don't have all the years covered yet but working on it. takes about 3 weeks.



scot

 

[Joe Mc]

i have the same problem with my 97, all the brake lines are rusty, in fact when i did mt steering column bushing i hit the line coming up to the master cylinder. i have a complete set of s. s. factory pre-bent coming from a supplier i deal with. it includes all the hardlines on the truck, sells for $215. 00

scot

Oh do tell who your source is, I'd rather do em all once (seal the lines with ???) and be done with them "FOREV VERRR".