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RV batteries: 12v or 6v?

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"Heavy" Towing

Changing axle/transmission oils etc...Question?

I typically get about 3 years from a set of 2, group 29, 12V batteries. Is that an average life for deep cycle RV batteries?



When I had my Lance camper, which had only one deep cycle battery, it also only lasted about 3 years.



george
 
I believe an inverter is the opposite of a converter. It changes DC (12v battery) to AC so you can run your electric shaver, TV, toaster, etc.



I think your correct on our TT we have the ability to hook up to our solar panels and it will charge the batteries and we can run 110v appliances in our trailer. To do this away from the panels it would take more batteries than I have room for but at home its nice to charge and use 110v
 
I typically get about 3 years from a set of 2, group 29, 12V batteries. Is that an average life for deep cycle RV batteries?



When I had my Lance camper, which had only one deep cycle battery, it also only lasted about 3 years.



george



The life of a flooded battery(s) is dependent on many factors including the amout of times it is depleted, how far down it is depleted, how quickly it is recharged, and on the converter maintaining the battery(s).



I replaced my Wal-Mart battery last year after 7 years on the first one. I replaced the dealer installed Group 27 Interstate battery with the Wal-Mart Group 31 battery when I bought the camper new in 2003. I kept the plates covered with electrolyte and never had a problem with electrolyte boil over and/or battery terminal corrosion.



Bill
 
The life of a flooded battery(s) is dependent on many factors including the amout of times it is depleted, how far down it is depleted, how quickly it is recharged, and on the converter maintaining the battery(s).



I replaced my Wal-Mart battery last year after 7 years on the first one. I replaced the dealer installed Group 27 Interstate battery with the Wal-Mart Group 31 battery when I bought the camper new in 2003. I kept the plates covered with electrolyte and never had a problem with electrolyte boil over and/or battery terminal corrosion.



Bill







Thanks Bill. I try to do proper maintenance on my batteries, but I know I don't do a very good job of it. I get corrosion and I did let the plates get exposed. I do use distilled water and I do keep the trailer plugged in to AC for prolong non-use times, however I still get boil over. If I unplug the AC, the batteries will get drawn down in about a month. I know, I need to learn proper maintenance.



george
 
Thanks Bill. I try to do proper maintenance on my batteries, but I know I don't do a very good job of it. I get corrosion and I did let the plates get exposed. I do use distilled water and I do keep the trailer plugged in to AC for prolong non-use times, however I still get boil over. If I unplug the AC, the batteries will get drawn down in about a month. I know, I need to learn proper maintenance.



george



Griz,



You need to replace the single stage converter with a three stage converter. The converter is overcharging your batteries. Your single stage converter keeps charging with a trickle charge even though the batteries are fully charged. Many RV manufacturers install single stage converters, but not the more slightly more expensive three stage converters. With a three stage converter, you can leave your trailer plugged in to AC and not have "boil overs" resulting in corrosion, a mess in the battery tray, and exposed plates.



Your batteries are slowly drawn down when you leave your trailer unplugged by the CO detector, LP leak detector, clock in the radio, maintaining the radio presets, etc. If you have a battery disconnect, use it when unplugged; however, you will have to reset the presets in the radio and reset the clock each time.



The other alternative is to plug in/unplug your trailer every few days, and closely monitor the electrolyte level on a regular basis. Add distilled water, as you mentioned, as needed.



Bill
 
So you leave your 5TH wheel plugged in with your shore power cable? My BRO IN LAW does that I dont like having that converter/inverter in the trailer on all the time. I installed a battery isolator switch from a boat shop that cuts off all battery power to the trailer then the Battery Tender just charges the batts with no connection to the trailer.



yes, the charger and batteries are hot all the time 24x7x365.
 
yes, the charger and batteries are hot all the time 24x7x365.



The post on 25 is what I have been told about using the shore power on all the time. It Over charges batteries unless like Bill said you have the rite converter. I have been using the Battery Tender for quite awhile and have never had any problems like boil over or overcharging because it charges the Batt's to a ceratin voltage then stops when it drops below a preset voltage it charges again. We just have started using our solar panels to charge the batt's and so far They seem to like it, not boiling or anything. I have also been told by Many RV people that are far more it tune with this than I and all have said not to run your batt's down below 50% AT ALL most have said stay at a 30% discharge then recharge and the Batt's will last much longer. So far so good with that plan of attack. The batt's that I use (Trojan) are kind of expensive so I pay attention to them.
 
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Griz,



You need to replace the single stage converter with a three stage converter. The converter is overcharging your batteries. Your single stage converter keeps charging with a trickle charge even though the batteries are fully charged. Many RV manufacturers install single stage converters, but not the more slightly more expensive three stage converters. With a three stage converter, you can leave your trailer plugged in to AC and not have "boil overs" resulting in corrosion, a mess in the battery tray, and exposed plates.



Your batteries are slowly drawn down when you leave your trailer unplugged by the CO detector, LP leak detector, clock in the radio, maintaining the radio presets, etc. If you have a battery disconnect, use it when unplugged; however, you will have to reset the presets in the radio and reset the clock each time.



The other alternative is to plug in/unplug your trailer every few days, and closely monitor the electrolyte level on a regular basis. Add distilled water, as you mentioned, as needed.



Bill





Thanks Bill, I'll get a three stage converter. How difficult is it to install myself. Is it just a matter of replacing the converter or is there something else I should know?



George
 
Griz,



You can do the change yourself if you know the basics about electrical systems. If you buy a replacement for the converter you have, the instructions should illustrate how to change it over. Also if you do a "search" several of the RV forums, you will find photos and instructions/tips from owners who have replaced their converters.



Bill
 
I just put two new batteries in my RV after much deliberation. I got the NAPA group 27 made by DEKA. About $95 each. These are dedicated deep cycle which is what you want. Not dual purpose, strictly designed for deep cycle. Model 8301. I also run the 3 stage charger and Charge Wizard, ran a 8g line from my truck to the RV Batteries and installed a disconnect in the RV next to the power panel. It disconnects power to the RV but keeps the RV charger online. With that disconnect I don't have to keep an extension cord on the RV because there is little drain. If I don't use it for more than a couple of weeks I'll plug it in just to keep them topped off.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NBR8301_0213748737

Look at this chart. .

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1081.pdf

DEKA Deep Cycle Batteries...

A deep cycle battery is called upon to deliver a long,
slow discharge of fewer amps... for several minutes or
hours... in a deep cycle application, such as running a
trolling motor or heavy marine accessory load (e. g.
depth finders, fish finders, radios, radar, lights, coolers,
house power, etc. ).
In this case, the power comes from deep within the
plates, not merely off the surface as in starting.
Therefore, deep cycle batteries are specially engineered
with heavier, thicker plates with fiberglass reinforcement,
special power-producing active material and special
heavy-duty separators.
With these features, the battery can withstand the
potentially damaging effects of continual deep discharge
and recharge. The unreinforced, thinner plates of a starting
battery cannot handle this constant deep cycling,
and will fail in short order.

#ad


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#ad
 
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I have 4 , 6 volt Deep cycle batteries in my 36' 5er. I also have 200 watts solar on the roof. . The solar has a cut-off at 14. 4 volts. i can run a lot of power during the night and by the afternoon, the batteries are back up to charge... This is the battery I put in.

Interstate Batteries
 
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They are about 65 lbs each. I have 2 on my TT and got 7 years out of the last set. I was thinking of adding 4 more in the truck box and connecting them with a "forklift" cable like the one Yo Hoot used. I have a 1750 HD inverter and an 80 watt solar panel but would like to add another one as well. We don't have A/C.

Some people have remarked that I could buy a generator for the cost of the solar panel and batteries but I like "quiet " operation. Besides lifting a heavy genset into the back of my 4X4 isn't my idea of fun.

Try this link Interstate Batteries Golf Results Page - Golf Car 5. 0 - 7. 0 Volts

Shadrach
 
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The post on 25 is what I have been told about using the shore power on all the time. It Over charges batteries unless like Bill said you have the rite converter. I have been using the Battery Tender for quite awhile and have never had any problems like boil over or overcharging because it charges the Batt's to a ceratin voltage then stops when it drops below a preset voltage it charges again. We just have started using our solar panels to charge the batt's and so far They seem to like it, not boiling or anything. I have also been told by Many RV people that are far more it tune with this than I and all have said not to run your batt's down below 50% AT ALL most have said stay at a 30% discharge then recharge and the Batt's will last much longer. So far so good with that plan of attack. The batt's that I use (Trojan) are kind of expensive so I pay attention to them.
since I don't have wet batteries anymore, I'm thinking charging may be a non-issue for me. AFAIK deep cycle batteries are made to be discharged, although I've never discharged any of mine that I know of in the RV below 12v.

I have discharged an AGM deep cycle too far that I put in my grandsons electric john deer toy car. I let him run it too long. According to the charger, it was below 10 volts. It would not charge with the charger on any setting. I placed a bigger fully charged battery in parallel and that alowed it to charge back (that time).
 
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I have no experience with AGM batteries but allot more home solar systems are using them. But with the number of batteries required in these systems the price would be astronomical. The Trojan batteries are electrolyte filled and its not that big of a deal to check them ever so often. As with most products the more in use the price comes down hopefully that can happen with AGM batteries. On second thought I do have experiance with AGM I have a canoe and the battery that runs the trolling motor is a blue top Optima one charge I can troll the lake all day. You dont expect me to paddle do you?
 
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