Rv power converter has a .5 amp draw when not plugged in.

[kcv67]

My Arctic Fox 24.5n Inteli Power 9100 Model PD9160A converter has a 0.5 amp draw when just sitting, not plugged in charging. Is this normal? I isolated it from the rest of the camper because I thought I had a draw on the batteries some where. The convertor was the culprit.
So the big question again does the converter always have a draw?
Casey

 

[Tuesdak]

NO! Mine doesn't and I have a TriMetric on it that would tell me. You may call them and see if they have any ideas or discounted repair. Disconnect the charge wizard if you have one is all I could think of for it's led light. But .5 amp is a lot.

Progressive Dynamics, Inc.
507 Industrial Road
Marshall, MI 49068 USA

Ph: (269) 781-4241

 

[Ozymandias]

No, it shouldn't have a draw.
It is a charger, not supposed to be an un-charger.

 

[HPSimpson]

I agree with Ozy NO, no draw period!

 

[DavidC]

Seem's to me that when the RV is not plugged in one of the LED's on the charge wizard is lit up solid.

 

[HPSimpson]

David, Yes the red one is on I have notice that, but never really thought about it.

 

[TFucili]

I would expect milliamps. .5A is quite a bit.

 

[DavidC]

Accuracy of the meter plays a part

 

[AH64ID]

I’m not even sure how it can draw as it uses AC power and outputs DC power.

 

[DavidC]

I’m not even sure how it can draw as it uses AC power and outputs DC power.

I'm sure there's a feedback from the DC side. The lights on mine show what state the batteries are in, fast charge, float etc.

 

[AH64ID]

I'm sure there's a feedback from the DC side. The lights on mine show what state the batteries are in, fast charge, float etc.

I guess that’s true of mine too now that I think a just it. .5 amps still seems extreme.

 

[Ozymandias]

An LED takes 0.00000 Amps.
That thing is just broken, that's all.

 

[Tuesdak]

LED's are like 20mA. That is 0.02A. Does it actually have the Charge Wizard pendant? The LED on mine is always on even without AC power.

With 0.5A I keep thinking the propane alarm, CO alarm, radio memory, fridge board (waiting for the on button to be pressed), and smoke alarm. Some alarms may be hard wired in and the source of the draw. The CO alarm in my AF does not have a fuse but the propane alarm does.

I don't know how you isolated the converter, but, the 0.5A is mirroring the typical RV draw from the above hardwired alarms. I will double check the amp draw on my RV next time I am in it. I have solar so I don't bother to pull the fuse on the propane alarm like the PO did for storage.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

I have seen diodes short out and cause a drain on a system - more than if they were working normally. Very rarely do they short - normally they open up. How rare - I don't know -- but in 45 years of working on cars and electronic stuff, I've seen it twice - both times were on a vehicle.

Just something to consider.

 

[kcv67]

So I went back through testing put an Ammeter in line from power source. I pulled fuses as I went as I did before. This time I found the .5 amp draw on the radio. I don't know how I missed that before. I had all the fuses pulled and the convertor was the only thing hooked up so I made a mistake diagnosing some how. The draw for the convertor is less than .01 amp my ammeter does not read any lower.
The radio has a 2 stage shut off which I knew and sometimes it does not get shut off all the way. Should just unplug it I guess.

Thank you for all the input and advice. TDR is the best for knowledge and experience.

Casey

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Cool! I love a simple fix!! Amazing what a little more coffee can fix! (other additives may help or hinder various activities).

 

[Tuesdak]

Further easy button: Do you have a radio on off switch in the bedroom? Mine does but doesn't mean all AF units do.