2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission RWD, Upper Control Arm Pivot Bar

[tomblue01]

I finally have a replacement for my driver's side UCA. It's just as old [well, technically it's two years older] and worn as mine, but it doesn't have a wallowed out ball joint hole nor a welded ball joint attached to it! I ordered some bushings from Rock Auto, and I attempted to remove the pivot bar on my recently acquired UCA [not the one on the truck]. The FSM doesn't say anything about changing out the bushings on the UCA, nor does it mention removing the pivot bar. I've read several posts where folks said they changed out [rwd] control arm bushings, but none mentioned how.

Is the pivot bar supposed to be removed in order to access the bushings? I'm thinking perhaps not. It doesn't seem to be part of some turn-buckle style setup. Do I need a special slotted cup to press the old bushings out using a ball joint press?

 

[tomblue01]

I've been thinking along the wrong lines. A double jaw puller of the proper size just might do the trick. Sadly for me, I don't have one nearby, so it looks like I'm off to the parts store tomorrow.

 

[tomblue01]

Need Suggestions, Please!

Well, how do I get these blasted things off? As you'll see, the puller bent up the lip, and the bushing didn't budge.

 

[BillBaker]

Did you get them out?!?..... could always drill out old bushing with multiple passes then get a hacksaw or sawzall blade in there to cut out the metal sleeve.

 

[Timd32]

Usually pressed out.

I did find some videos the first one checkout 6:45

The second uses the press kit I'm more familiar with using.

Guess you could DIY a press set up like the first video, but our auto parts store I think it's like $10 for the kit for a few hours, free if you buy the parts there and don't break it. Not sure if the locat tool rental places have these, we have a few of those around here, that you can rent everything from circus tents to front end loaders and jackhammers.

I don't think they will pull out.

https://youtu.be/91wdKd9-Wh8

https://youtu.be/aPbL9HTHZg0

 

[tomblue01]

No. Haven't removed the old ones yet. Looks like burning them out [most of the bushing at least] seems to be a common solution for those without a hydraulic press. I'm temporarily in western VA now, so I've contacted a friend who has a friend who might have a hydraulic press. ... Yeah. I'll probably end up burning them out, removing the pivot bar, & then using a typical ball joint press for the remaining outer shell.

Tim, your first video link led me to some other links where I watched one guy actually torch the bushing. In any case, it made me realize that my searches have been too specific. "Ram 2500" does not need to always be in the youtube parameters. I had seen the ChrisFix vid previously, but I hadn't seen other one - the first vid you posted. His [the first vid] UCA is very similar to mine having the pivot bar interfering with the pressing out of the bushing. His video doesn't mention the type of truck he has, which is why it never popped up in my searches. You'd think it become evident: if what your looking for "isn't on" youtube, then start generalizing your search. Well, it didn't hit me until I watched your link. Thanks for that reminder!

Valuable Lesson: When your specific search fails, broaden your parameters!

Bill, on the video where I watched him burn out the rubber portion, he used a hacksaw to almost cut through the outer shell. He then took a flathead screwdriver & used it as a chisel - like you mentioned. It worked!

I'll get to this, but not tomorrow. When I do, I'll make post for those few 2 wheelers out there who might do theirs down the road. What is the percentage of RWD vs 4WD? I know up north it's closes in on 100%, but what about the warmer latitudes? Perhaps I should stick with TDR members. 30-70?

 

[tomblue01]

Successfully Removing The Pivot Bar

Notes:
1) Cutting off the extraneous rubber makes it easier for drilling holes.
2) Drilling holes makes the burning better. 6-8 will do nicely.
3) Burn both sides of the bushing. Takes just over 2 songs worth of applied heat to soften the rubber enough to pluck/push/remove it from the bushing.
4) It's messy, and it stinks. Should've laid some tin foil down on the asphalt in order to readily collect the easily smeared, half melted pieces of rubber.
5) Keep wearing gloves even after everything has cooled down. Small rubber bits spatter onto various things like the torch or the midpoint of the control arm, and when they cool down, they don't act like the solid rubber they came from - they act more like tar. It stains your fingers yellow regardless of the cleaning solution applied to your skin. [The stains go away in a couple of days.] A degreaser removes the splatter from metal objects.
6) You only have to clear all the rubber from one bushing. On the other, after sufficient heat, use the pivot bar to push the rubber [and the bar itself] out.

 

[tomblue01]

Oh yes. That inner metal part rusted itself to the pivot bar. Hammer & chisel. Getting that bugger off took longer than burning out the bushings. Squirt it down and keep tapping away on it. It'll come off.
Now that the pivot bar is out, a standard ball joint press extracts the remaining outer bushing shell.
Fine sand paper and some light sanding. A bit of grease and she's ready for fresh bushings.