zjones,
I'd guess at around a 55 HP increase with most of that coming from the POD injectors. More if you work the pump a bit.
zjones, its only my opinion but I think the golden rules are:
1) keep baseling readings for starting point
2) keep readings of EACH adjustment/results
3) start easy on each change and drive it after each one.
The governed speed (high idle) can be adjusted.
Before you do any adjusting, take the truck out for a test drive and check the following:
- Pick a gear, say 2nd, then open it up WOT. Watch the tach as you rev up and pay attention to the RPM and the exact point at which you start to "feel" the truck "fall off". Hold it at WOT and watch were the RPM basically stops. You need to note those 2 readings for reference.
The governed speed (high idle) can be adjusted as noted above. Just below and in front of the AFC housing is a long screw. If you slowly open the throttle manually, you'll see a plate near the front of the pump, that moves back toward the firewall. That stop plate hits the front end of the governor screw.
The back end (firewall end) is covered with a metal cap that can be pryed off with some tongue wiggling and a screw driver.
Under that cap is a long screw with 2 locknuts, I think they are 10mm.
Loosen the locknuts, turn the screw CC 2 turns, (CC when looking at the screw from the firewall end, facing toward the radiator)
Start with 2 full turns, tighten the locknuts and test drive, watching for the same things I mentioned.
I have a personal (opinion) limit of around 3,000 RPM. Currently I'm topped out at around 2,750 RPM. Piers' opinion is that 3,000 is safe to run without any real worries if all else is in good shape.
As to the pump itself, it can be tweaked safely if you keep your BOMBING URGES under some control...
My personal rules to go by:
- ALWAYS keep before/after results/readings
- ALWAYS watch EGT's
- Make modest adjustemnts (one at a time) and test drive
- Get a "pre-mod" dyno run in if you can
Larger injectors usually require a pump timing increase to help make the most of those injectors. ( they also reduce stress on the pump as an added bonus) It is reasonably inexpensive. . It takes a good shop about 1 hour to do + or -.
If the very precise "spill port timing" is used it takes longer and is far more accurate, and more expensive.
Keep a close eye on your EGT's at the high, upper end since your going to the 12cm housing. There is a slight chance of higher EGT's if you're towing, carrying heavy at highway speeds and working it hard. Remember, 1,200*F - 1,250*F is the max safe upper end. At around 1,350*F you've got 1 minute out of 5, at 1500*F you've got 30 seconds to Chernobyl (as Piers put it to me)
Well thats it... hope that helps with your question(s) and future BOMBINB
Good luck.
Bob.
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
) & has rebuilt inj. pumps before so all we will need is instructions. )
hmm or should that be settle for no other!!
