?'s about Brite Box and headlight wiring in general

[JHansen]

My truck is a Sport-so the lights are far better that a standard truck from the get-go. Unfortunately it's getting to that time of year when I'll be going to and coming from work in the dark-and you can never have enough headlight around here. So I'm gearing up for some headlight upgrades...



1. Already got a set of 9004XV Sylvania bulbs sitting here to be installed-should have picked up the 9007's too but I had brain fade at the time (figured that the 9004's were the low beam side which is where I could use the most improvement). So that's first on the list-decent bulbs. From what I've read the super-expensive ones like PIAA don't give the bang-for-the-buck that something like the Sylvania's do-anybody with any specific recommendations?



2. I know from reading past threads about the Brite Box that it powers both the low-beam and high-beam filaments of the bulb when on high beam. Pretty sure also that on a Sport it lights up both sets of filaments on the outer 9007's but only the high-beam ones on the inner 9004's (please correct me if I'm wrong). Also understand that it has a power wire to run to the battery. So am I correct in thinking that as well as providing extra lighting from the extra filament, it also eliminates a ton of the voltage drop that comes from the stock wiring? And does it provide a heavier ground path to take care of that side of the equation too?



3. Electrical stuff really doesn't bother me-but sometimes my execution leaves something to be desired Considering making my own setup with Bosch relays-but does anyone know a source for plugs and sockets for the factory headlight connectors? I don't want to cut any wiring up front-to me my truck is still new and I would probably physically shed tears if I had to start cutting and hacking on it! I do understand that the newer trucks are constant power/switched ground.



4. Anyone know how the Brite Box will respond to my Canadian daytime running lights? These are a must-keep for me.



Thanks in advance

Jason

 

[Un-Hemi]

Jason, I have purchased the headlight sockets from both Canadian Tire and UAP/NAPA. You may have to sacrifice some headlight bulbs to get the mating ends; I've not seen anything like them in the auto supply stores.



Although I am not familiar with the britebox, it should be possible to retain the Daytime Run Lights, perhaps using a relay to switch between the stock wiring to the DRL module and the modified wiring and the britebox. Anything is possible with relays! It might be best to contact the manufacturer of the britebox for their comments and assistance. Do they say anything about DRL anywhere in the britebox instructions? Purchase of the DC factory service manual for the circuit diagrams is recommended if you don't have one already.



Unfortunately, some modification of the stock wiring will probably be necessary, although, like you, I would want to minimize the alterations.



I have some concerns about running both filaments in a 9004 or a 9007 lamp. You would be generating 120 watts of heat in the bulb designed to dissipate a maximum of 65 watts (55+65 watts are the standard power bulbs), and if it didn't overtemp the lamp's envelope, it may cause melting of the plastic headlight housing if it is left on for an extended time. Reliability may suffer. Yeah, I know. Other guys are getting away with it, but remember, we become experimental test pilots when ratings are exceeded like this! How's it go? I are my own Warranty Station?



I have all the parts to convert my non-sport truck to sport headlights, and am going to design my own system of relays and switches to give me a great deal of control over my headlights and driving/fog lights. Whether I end up doing what the britebox does remains to be seen. I want to relieve the stock headlight wiring of most of the current load that it normally carries. I've had too many electrical failures on too many different Dodges to leave it the way it is! It's gonna be one of my winter-time projects while the Turbosaurus is out of insurance.

 

[JHansen]

Thanks for the info Tom!

Like you I've seen the plugs in Canadian Tire etc-but nothing as far as sockets. Worse things than cannibalizing a few bulbs to get them I suppose. Would like to find sockets with heavier wire than stock stuff-according to my service manual the power supply to the headlights are 18 gauge! What's up with that? Looking for something closer to 10-12 gauge-but I'm guessing that it may not exist.



And the wiring diagrams in the new service manuals suck! Either that or maybe I bumped my head this morning before I started my quest... . I'll figure it out-just think they could have done a better job of drawing them that's all...



I'm gonna drop Geno's a line to see what they have to say about the DRL's coexisting with the Brite Box. I've gotta keep them-no matter what. If I can find the sockets and plugs that I want I'm thinking along your lines of fabbing my own setup-even if I don't light both filaments reducing voltage drop (and there's gotta be a ton with 18 gauge wire ) should greatly improve light output.



Thanks again for your comments Tom



Jason

 

[Un-Hemi]

Yeah, like I said, the factory wiring is marginal at best! The short length of the 18 gauge pigtail on the aftermarket sockets (6" or so) will cause little voltage drop; it's unfortunate that the aftermarket sockets aren't available with heavier wires attached. I've purchased them from two separate sources, but the wire size is the same. I wonder if Ford or GM might use heavier wiring on their sockets.



The wiring diagrams are, shall we say, "different", but once you twist your head the correct way, they make sense... . except for the DRL module. The service manual gives no clue about how the DRL works. I have my suspicions; I'll have a look at it with a scope as soon as I get a chance. Unfortunately, most of the members south of the 49th have never dealt with DRL, so it's unlikely that they could offer any suggestions.



If your service manual is the same as mine, it shows the grounding side of the LEFT headlight is only 20 gauge! At least it turns into 18 gauge at the S106 connection, wherever that is located. I speculate that they are equalizing the voltages on the left and right headlights. On my old '93 truck (wish I still had it!), the right headlight was always noticeably dimmer than the left headlight, even with a new bulb, probably from the difference in length of the wiring and the DRL module.