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S&S Diesel 6.7 SuperSport CP3 on a 5.9

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Tow haul indication

Turbo oil supply line

Darkbloodmon

TDR MEMBER
P/N : CP3-CU-SS

I ordered this as a replacement for my stock CP3 which was leaking, at the time I purchased this earlier this year in April it retailed right around 1100, versus a new OEM Bosch CP3 at 1300.

This is a new, modified 6.7 CP3 for 5.9 and 6.7 applications. S&S advertises this as a more internally robust unit capable of turning fuel past a stock CP3s flatline of 3500rpm to 5500. They also advertise this is a drop in replacement with minimal tweaking. This is a partial truth.

Before purchasing this unit for my 03 H.O. 6MT I asked a swath of questions for clarifications on fitment to make sure before spending the money that I would have no issues and it should come out and go it like a stock 5.9 CP3.

This pump itself drops in ok, you can remove the ccv drain for better clearance during install. What wasn't mentioned on any descriptions was that you have to modify the hardline going to the pump to the rail. I'll have pictures below. I was only told the pump supply had to be modified from the fuel filter housing. This wasn't so much an issue for me since I have a delete return block and an aftermarket lift pump.

I sent emails back and forth, asked them if they've tested this on an early 03 or 04 truck etc. etc. I'm told everything is as it should be and that all 5.9s need tweaking for this line. I would've liked to know this ahead of time or before I bought the pump and struggled with it.

So the solution is playing black smith with this line, since my truck is an early 03 my APPS is mounted on my throttle linkage assembly which is located on the manifold shelf. I remove it and reinstall the three bolts that hold it down and use those three bolts to as a pipe bender for this hardline I spent near two hours tweaking and test fitting this line back and forth until in threads in perfectly.

I finally had my first fire yesterday to check for leaks as this was installed awhile ago, and none on the high-pressure side. I'm happy with it, it gives me room for mild tuning down the road and it's a new unit with sturdier internals.

This is important common rail trucks are self bleeding, you do not need to crack the lines. I have rather new injectors, this new pump and I didn't like the idea of cranking all the air out. I learned this from a YouTube channel of one of PDDs employees when he was assembling his race engine and doing a first fire. Unplug the injector harness so the injectors don't fire then crank it for a bit as if you're trying to build oil pressure on a new engine. Repeat this a few times, then plug the injector harness back in. It should start with minimal stutter in comparison. You will have codes pop up so have a scanner ready and able to delete them. I liked this method better, but to each their own.

The last picture has two numbers 1 marks the pump to rail feed hardline, 2 marks the pump supply and return port. The clearance on these is pretty tight, you have to remove the return banjo to tighten the supply connector.

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Yes it is self bleeding, only thing you need to do is switch the ignition on and wait. That's it.

Just checked my service manual this is true, If I had known I would've done this method instead. Multiple ways to skin a cat. I'd take a cheap shot at you (in jest) but you'd fire back that you have a functioning truck, which is something I currently don't have. I have a generator on 31" casters at the moment.......
 
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The key on sequence just bleeds any accumulated air from each end of the rail, it doesn't prime an empty system. You have to spin the CP-3 to prime it from completely empty. When the fuel system is completely empty a 15 second crank to fuel started into the CP-3 and rail then hit it with some type of starting fluid and they almost always pop right off and run. In crank mode the injectors don't bleed air out and it will take longer to build correct pressure in an air filled rail. 200-250 rpm crank does not work as well as +700 rpms to purge the CR system.
 
The key on sequence just bleeds any accumulated air from each end of the rail, it doesn't prime an empty system. You have to spin the CP-3 to prime it from completely empty. When the fuel system is completely empty a 15 second crank to fuel started into the CP-3 and rail then hit it with some type of starting fluid and they almost always pop right off and run. In crank mode the injectors don't bleed air out and it will take longer to build correct pressure in an air filled rail. 200-250 rpm crank does not work as well as +700 rpms to purge the CR system.

You know.... this is what I assumed with just common sense, that the lift pump would not be able to prime the full system from empty as both my rail and CP3 were during install. I feel better about the method I used now.
 
The service manual blurb is for changing the fuel filter, not draining the whole CR system. All components being good, it will eventually prime and fire with long cranks, just about the time you start getting concerned about the starter. ;)
 
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