Safe boost levels?

[Lumpy]

I'm guessing anything over the 40-50psi range its about time for head studs, correct? I'm planning on doing them when I do a turbo and injectors.



Just wondering if this sounds right... I have stock injectors, stock turbo, 4 inch silverline turbo back, and an A. F. E. stage 2 intake. I'm running my smarty on SW3: Tm2 Tq3(winter conditions; slippery). It'd been dry here the last few days, and I got on it pretty hard today, Looked down at my guages, and full load at 2600rpm, my 0-60 autometer boost gauge was holding a steady 43psi.



I'm not complaining about having boost But, just seems like quite a bit on stock injectors and turbo. She doesn't smoke much, a puff on shifts, and a light haze at WOT... I may just be paranoid, but I figured I'd ask.



Thanks!

Kevin

 

[AH64ID]

I was never able to see over 37 on SW3, and that was only twice. Once on a 10° day, and once before I moved the boost reference line from the horn (reads higher than the manifold) to the intake manifold. My normal WOT boost was about 34-35. Now with the cam/turbo I only get to about 32, but a lot cooler and more air.

38 is what most people tell you to try and limit the HE351 to, I used 35 because of my elevation. It's not the boost that is so bad at that level, but the drive pressure. At 35 psi of boost I was at 55+ psi of drive pressure.

I also did studs when I did my turbo. Lots of people running 40-50 psi on stock bolts, but I error on the safe side. In addition 40 psi with stock cam/turbo may be similar cylinder pressure to my 30 with a cam/turbo, so I didn't want to risk it. ARP 2000's aren't expensive, and are easy to install. . just do it.

 

[cerberusiam]

That sounds about right. I have to have a good load and run mine out to 3000 rpms to get there but the auto is a different beast for transfering load.



The turbo will go to 40-45 psi easily but its starting to get out of its map and the drive pressures are limiting abilities, but, it still flows pretty good air. As for safety, what you need to worry about is dumping the throttle at high boost not neccessarily getting there. With the big compressor wheel and the tight housing interuption of the exhaust flow will cause a compressor stall and bark like crazy. A bark is 100 times worse than running at 40 psi constant.



With a manual its best NOT to go over 35 psi and try to shift. Even then its gonna woof at you but its not as hard on the turbo as 40+ is.

 

[Lumpy]

I've got my boost line in the horn right now, but have a cfm+ horn on the way, along with a boost bolt. That reading I was getting was in 6th gear, doing about 80mph. I figured up around 40 the turbo was going to be loosing it's efficiency.

Head studs, exhaust manifold, turbo, injectors and a clutch are on my wish list, now if I could only remember where I planted that money tree... . ? Lol. Eventually.

Thanks!