Safe to drive DRW with only one wheel per side?

[User113]

I am in the process of converting my truck from a DRW to SRW. I have placed an order with Rickson Wheels, but they won't be ready for about three months. In the meantime, I am also getting the fenders for the duallies replaced with the "fleetside" fenders. I can do that right now.

In the mean time, can I drive it around locally with only one wheel on each side of the rear axle? Yes, I know it will look like an old Citroën in its wheel stance, but as long as I don't do any hauling, is there any definitive guidance on the issue?

 

[p-Bar]

You should be fine . When my friend buys his end dump trailers they only come with singles when he picks it up from the rail yard

 

[mfurrh55]

As long as you use only the inside wheels,otherwise you will break the studs if you use the outers only, learned that the hard way back in 82

 

[dward]

user 113
I'm thinking of doing the same. What are the fleetside fenders? Are you keeping your original bed, I had a body shop give me a price of $3-4k to patch the holes after removing the dually fenders. Said it would be cheaper to buy a takeoff bed, but I have mine set up for my camper and Linexed so I'd like to keep it.
Also, how much longer is the rear axle? Do you plan to run a spacer on the front in order to have the tires track the same line.
To answer your question, I have seen several times guys running only the inside dual wheel.
Thanks

 

[RVTRKN]

As long as you use only the inside wheels,otherwise you will break the studs if you use the outers only, learned that the hard way back in 82

Thats correct, but isn't that when you do that for long term use? I use the inside as well, last time I had to run my truck that way back in March, I questioned myself as to which way it should be, but then I thought better of it.

I lost a front tire and used one of my duals as a spare, but I ran it like that for only about 250 miles. I was more worried about my cheap ash OEM General tires that separated the tread (bubbled) as my spare covered the first issue I had. Tires were still legal though, but were just about to the wear bars. I had a funeral to go to in a remote part of Nevada so I had to travel that many miles until I could get to Las Vegas and buy Michelin's.

 

[User113]

dward,

"Fleetside" are your "typical" SRW type bed, smooth from front to rear; as opposed to the "stepside" bed.

I am probably keeping my original bed, but I still am waiting for a couple of other bids from other body shops. The first bid (from my preferred body shop) was around $3,300 for taking the complete side panels off and replacing them with new SRW panels, and painting. They weren't too keen on patching the existing panels. Their price for doing a used bed ("insurance quality" used, as "new takeoffs" don't seem to be available for 2004's anymore) would have been $1,000 higher due to the additional prep work and paint (base coat and clear coat) for the entire bed.

The Rickson wheels I have ordered are custom backspaced 19.5" x 7.5" that I will probably cover with 265/70R traction tires on all four positions. The wheels will be made so that I will NOT need to change out the axle. All I will need to do is to remove the existing spacer from the front hubs. The wheels will track correctly and will be interchangeable front to back. See www.ricksontruckwheels.com for more details.

My question was to see if I could safely run the stock wheels until the Rickson's get finished, it sounds like that will not be a problem.

The only thing I really haven't decided upon is whether or not to get a tailgate that does not have the clearance lights on it.

 

[mfurrh55]

dward,

"Fleetside" are your "typical" SRW type bed, smooth from front to rear; as opposed to the "stepside" bed.

I am probably keeping my original bed, but I still am waiting for a couple of other bids from other body shops. The first bid (from my preferred body shop) was around $3,300 for taking the complete side panels off and replacing them with new SRW panels, and painting. They weren't too keen on patching the existing panels. Their price for doing a used bed ("insurance quality" used, as "new takeoffs" don't seem to be available for 2004's anymore) would have been $1,000 higher due to the additional prep work and paint (base coat and clear coat) for the entire bed

Last time i looked , The 2002 thru 2009 were the same beds, I see them on C.L. all the time from 300.00 -1000.00, Be cheaper to buy one ,maybe in your color too, and have liner sprayed in , than pay 3300.00 for some so-called body work, Just my thoughts, i don't like to waste money, Monte

 

[RVTRKN]

That was my thought as well, buy a new bed (There are a lot of beds sitting around) that were removed for the installation of a utility/flat bed conversion for 3rd Gen trucks.

 

[User113]

That was my thought as well, buy a new bed (There are a lot of beds sitting around) that were removed for the installation of a utility/flat bed conversion for 3rd Gen trucks.

Well, that's good to know. I will definitely look into this more. I hadn't actually done much searching myself, but armed with the above, I will. Thanks.

 

[User113]

Well, I was not able to find on Craig's List any suitable long beds within 200 miles of where I live. I did, however find half a dozen or so beyond that distance (I searched along the route I take regularly from Virginia to Maine and from Virginia to Missouri ranging from $200 to $1200. None of these were the right color, and most had rust, dents, etc. to boot, most also (particularly the "good" ones) did not come with a bumper or tailgate. (The $1,200 one looked factory new, as in it did not even have any undercoating on it, but it was just the bed, and it was in Tulsa, OK.) There was another one in pristine condition, a 2008 with lights, tailgate, and bumper about an hour from my daughter's house in Missouri, but the asking price was $3,000. So that was pretty much a bust, seeing as that is what I was planning to spend locally, painted the correct color. Good beds are not cheap!

Anyway, in my search I ran across American Tire & Transportation (www.atp4you.net) and decided to go with them. They will Line-X, undercoat and paint a "like new or Excellent" bed the color of my choice, include a bumper and lights, and deliver it to my house for about the same price as I would have paid locally for just the painted fleetside fenders, so I decided to give them a try. I did not see anything unfavorable about them on any of the truck forums I belong to. I will document my experience.

 

[RVTRKN]

lots of 2500 CTD service trucks here in SoCal, I know it's far from you but have you check the SoCal area?

 

[mfurrh55]

There's a bunch all over Tx. too

 

[mfurrh55]

just ran across a white long bed 2002-2009 in great shape for 300.00 in Cleburne tx. on C.L.has sprayed in bedliner, missing tail lights and tailgate is all

 

[AH64ID]

Every time I have driven thru Montana in the winter I see several DRW's only running the inners.

The Rickson wheels I have ordered are custom backspaced 19.5" x 7.5" that I will probably cover with 265/70R traction tires on all four positions. The wheels will be made so that I will NOT need to change out the axle. All I will need to do is to remove the existing spacer from the front hubs. The wheels will track correctly and will be interchangeable front to back.

How will you be able to swap front to back without changing the axle out? If you properly backspace the wheels for a SRW rear on a DRW width axle they will not be proper for the front axle. I am not sure how you can have 1 backspacing work for both axles.

A 265 is a big tire, do you think you will need a lift?

With my Vision Type 81's my 245's barely clear, so 265's would rub but the backspacing may be different.

 

[User113]

How will you be able to swap front to back without changing the axle out? If you properly backspace the wheels for a SRW rear on a DRW width axle they will not be proper for the front axle. I am not sure how you can have 1 backspacing work for both axles.

Well, that is what they tell me. I'm sure that taking the 1 inch spacer off the front hub has something to do with it.

A 265 is a big tire, do you think you will need a lift?

With my Vision Type 81's my 245's barely clear, so 265's would rub but the backspacing may be different.

Again, I was told that they are 34" tires, and that they would fit. Did you check out their website? I will start a build thread on this to let y'all know how it turns out.

 

[AH64ID]

Well, that is what they tell me. I'm sure that taking the 1 inch spacer off the front hub has something to do with it.

The spacer is much more than 1", and returns the axle to the same width as a SRW front axle.

The DRW axle is 4" wider. That means if you have 4 wheels of the same back-spacing the rear tires will stick out 2" further than the front axle will.

Generally when I see DRW to SRW with custom wheels the wheels cannot be rotated front to back to front.

To make the wheel so it fits the wider axle in the same track width of a SRW means it probably won't be able to be installed in the front. Making the track width 2" wider per side in the front would reduce clearance to the point I am not sure a 265 would fit, maybe even have clearance issues on a 245.

If you remove the DRW adapter and then install a 2" spacer up front you could run a backspacing that would work, but without a 2" spacer up front I just don't see how it would work.

Again, I was told that they are 34" tires, and that they would fit. Did you check out their website? I will start a build thread on this to let y'all know how it turns out.

I have been on their website lots, and researched them quite a bit before choosing the Vision Type 81 19.5" wheels.

None of their photos are with fleetside beds, nor do they show a head on photo to see how the track width works out.

265's are about 34.4" tall, similar to your average 35. Fitment is all based on backspacing.