Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Salvage Engine - Replace Bearings, Oil Pump?

[MMcCallie]

I'm about to install a '94 12 valve. It is out of a wreck, appears to have been a front collision. I don't know much about it, its been sitting in a warehouse for a few years & there's no one to ask. The fan has some bent blades & the water pump is locked up.



The engine sits nestled in a pallette on the back of a trailer. It is merely strapped down. I took it to a local diesel guy to get it started up & hear it run before we drop it in. He tried jumper cables directly to the starter, but it has so much torque that the engine rocked hard & almost turned over.



He said hearing the engine run won't be an option until it is mounted in the truck, but he thinks it will run fine. He's recommended we swap out some parts while the engine is out. He said he always puts in a new oil pump & bearings when installing a salvage engine.



The oil filter looked clean, barely any signs of metal shavings. The engine had 94,000 miles on it, supposedly ran before it was pulled. It has a 160 pump & complete electrical harness & computer.



Is he right? Do bearings need to be replaced? Do these oil pumps go out around 100k? He said the engine pretty much has to be pulled to drop the pan so now is the time.



Are there any other parts i need to service while the engine is out? I am on a very limited budget & hope to get the engine swapped this weekend. Should i mod the 160 pump or just wait & save up for a good 215 later on?



Thanks,

Matt

 

[Joe G.]

I don't think I would mess with the bearings until it was run and you have some idea about oil pressure. At 94K that engine is barely broken in. Pull the injectors and turn the engine to see if it's frozen. Watch the valves to make sure they are all working without sticking. That is, that the valves close as the rocker arms come up. I would worry more about rust than bearings.



In answer to your other post above, the stock water pump really moves the coolant. I don't think you need to worry about trying to find a heavy duty version of it.

 

[moparguy]

Matt, if I were in your situation, I'd pull the timing cover, deal with the kdp, it's very easy with the engine out. I'd also bump the timing to 16 or so while the cover was off. To do this it would be necessary to fab up some type engine mount so you can turn the engine over. Set the valves and install a new front crank seal, and replace all hoses, some are almost impossible to get to when the engine is installed.



Pull injectors, good idea, you can learn a lot that way, check compression while they're out. If any issues, much easier to deal with vrs installing in the truck and finding you need to pull it back out.



Having said all the above, if I had confidance that I was given accurate info on the engine's past, then I'd likely do the first paragraph stuff, clean the engine well, install it and cross my fingers. I would not change the oil pump and rod bearings as pm.



Good luck, RR

 

[MMcCallie]

Thanks for the tips. Though i know little about the Cummins, it sounded strange to think internal parts would be worn with such low mileage. For a Cummins that is.



Does the engine need to be running to check for compression & see if valves are sticking or not? I do plan on the KDP kit from TST. Its in the shopping cart. Just not sure if should add anything else to it while i'm there. Haven't done any mods yet, but the mechanic said the turbo has too much movement side to side & in & out.



The mechanic said he can borrow tools to measure compression, adjust the valves, & set the timing once its running. I really do wish i could hear it run first. Not sure its worth all the hassle of building an engine stand for just this one engine to be installed in a few days. It was supposedly running fine when it was pulled.



This fan is busted so i think i'm gonna go with an electric setup this time. I'll have plenty of room in front if i need to do anything up there after the engine is installed.



He did mention i'd be wise to replace all of the hoses. Does anyone make a kit with all of the right size hoses already cut & ready to install?



Thanks guys,

Matt

 

[Joe G.]

Check the valves by turning it by hand with the injectors removed so you don't have to fight compression. You want to watch to see if the rocker arms push the valves down without a struggle or trying to bend a push rod. You also want to watch to see if the valve follows the rocker arm back up. If a valve is sticking you don't want a running engine to bend pushrods or slam the valves closed with the piston. For compression turn the engine with the starter. Disconnect the connector for the fuel solenoid or remove all of the injectors before you do that so it won't start. The engine is most probably ok, but it's best to check to make sure.

 

[stacerbob]

If your mechanic is going to "borrow" tools to do this simple jobs you need to find another mechanic. If he is a diesel mechanic he should at least have a compression set???

 

[MMcCallie]

Diesel Mechanic

He's a self proclaimed hoosier. Very easy to talk to, very reasonable. I live way out in the country, middle of nowhere. He's under 20 miles from me. He has a pole barn where he works on whatever comes in. We're probably gonna do it at my place though.



He went to school as a diesel tech, but hasn't worked on them much in about 9 years. I just met him a couple weeks ago. He mostly works on bigger diesel trucks, usually swapping engines.



He does some work at a shop in town & the shop won't do a job this big. He's doing it as a side job, as is another mechanic who works there. Figure the 3 of us can get it done pretty quickly. The diesel guy is whom everyone says is the best diesel mechanic around. Actually, his is the only name i've heard for diesels around here. He does all sorts of work, i think between the three of us, we'll get it all taken care of.



I'm hoping this engine runs fine when we drop it in. I didn't think it would have that much kick to it when trying to start it up. I can't wait to get this thing working.

 

[MMcCallie]

Bolt that can shear off in pump?

He also said there is a bolt that gets sheared off. He pointed to the front of the pump. I'm not sure what he's talking about. I asked him if he meant the dowel pin & he seemed to be saying there is something else. Is there something else i should be taking care of on this engine before i install it?