Saw blade re-sharpening

[magothy1]

Looking for someplace to send some table saw blades to get sharpened, any suggestions ? East coast for lower shipping would be my first choice. Saw a site for Burns Tools in Mass. , I think it is, anyone use them ? I have a project coming up this winter that involves a good bit of angled ripping. My local guy has gone out of business, he was dang good, too. Thanks, Steve

 

[Jim W]

Sorry, I am not in your area. I live in IL and I needed saw blades resharpened also. Could not find a local store in my city, so I looked up on the internet for a wood working club. I then contacted them for information on a shop, found one three towns over that did an excellent job.

I wood also contact your local Woodcraft shop, or wood dealer they would know also.

Just my $0. 02

 

[p-Bar]

call a local cabinetmaker and ask him where he has his sharpened

 

[HSpiering]

You will find it cheeper to buy new than to have them sharpend.

 

[Grizzly]

I agree with HSpiering. Saw blades are not worth sharpening anymore. You can buy good carbide tip blades at Home Depot for less then you can have someone sharpen them. Years ago I used to get them sharpen for 10 cents per diameter inch. In other words, it cost me $1. 20 to sharpen a 12" blade. Not anymore however.

 

[p-Bar]

Depends on the quality of the blank if you buy industrial quality blades then you sharpen. If you buy HD then you throw away

 

[MRFost]

If you buy the 20$ blades, throw them out. If you buy the $145 blades, I'd try sharpening them. Me -- I have some intermediate price blades that need a fresh edge.

 

[Grizzly]

If you buy the 20$ blades, throw them out. If you buy the $145 blades, I'd try sharpening them. Me -- I have some intermediate price blades that need a fresh edge.

Why would you want to buy a $145 blade when a $50 will cut as good.

 

[MVenditti]

Check out Forrest MFG. Great blades come in a box to send back for sharpening or tooth replacement. I have them on chop saw and table saw.

 

[p-Bar]

Why would you want to buy a $145 blade when a $50 will cut as good.

We(cabinetmakers) buy 150. 00 blades for the quality of the blank (metal disc that carbide is brazed to) . When cutting large amounts of lumber blades get hot and the cheap ones will start to warp the expensive ones won't. Can't have that in our business. So that's it in a nut shell. The cheap ones are probably fine for the "weekend warrior"

 

[Grizzly]

We(cabinetmakers) buy 150. 00 blades for the quality of the blank (metal disc that carbide is brazed to) . When cutting large amounts of lumber blades get hot and the cheap ones will start to warp the expensive ones won't. Can't have that in our business. So that's it in a nut shell. The cheap ones are probably fine for the "weekend warrior"

Well, I'm not a weekend warrior and I used to buy the expensive 10" blades for my 10" Delta Unisaw, but now I find that a $50, 10" Ridgid Titanium from HomeDepot works just a good and It doesn't warp when it get hot.



I'm not a full time cabinetmakers, but I do build them upon request. Most of my time is spent on furnisher making.



What brand of table saw do you have? Do you use a radial arm saw? I don't because I don't like them. I do most of my cross cutting with a 12" DeWalt Miter, Compound, Slider saw.

 

[magothy1]

Forgot to come back here with my results. I sent them off because I don't like the buy 'em and toss 'em routine, but that's just me. I sent mine to Burns Tools in Fall River, Mass. Blades came back very sharp, I forget the price, but I was happy. I had a friend give me a fairly inexpensive rip blade, said he liked them and he's run a bunch. My resharpened blade was better, this is running bevel rips long ways on a 2x4 yellow pine.