It's a pretty quick swap. The hard part is fishing everything through the maze of brake lines, etc on that side of the firewall. Reaching the clip that holds the rod onto the pedal may take a bit of work, too.
It's been a few months, so I'm going from memory:
-unbolt the slave from the transmission
-free up the hydraulic line between the master and the slave (there are a few zip ties holding it in place)
-remove the linkage from the pedal (a clip and a pin - careful with the clip since it's spring loaded and will try to hide)
-while you're on your back under the dash, unplug the clutch interlock switch
-remove the clutch master cylinder from the firewall. There's nothing to unbolt, just twist the whole unit counterclockwise about a 1/8th - 1/4 turn and it will unlock from the firewall. And be careful fishing the assembly out of the truck, so you don't snag any wires and create other problems.
-transfer the starter interlock switch to the new assembly. I managed to bust a clip. A little patience and I wouldn't have had a problem.
-reinstall the new setup in reverse order.
Things to remember on the reinstall:
-swap the old spacer that went between the firewall and the master cylinder to the new master cylinder. It's a little thicker so the assembly will lock to the firewall more securely.
-leave the plastic strap on the slave cylinder until it is bolted in place. The first time you push the pedal it will snap. This will prevent the slave from over extending and will keep the plastic bushing in place during assembly (and make sure you remove the old one).
-I started with the rod adjusted all the way in (between the master cylinder and pedal). I've since adjusted it out a couple of turns (compensate for thick floormats).
I think that's about it. Anyone else?