Screw Extractor Advice

[rbattelle]

As I discuss in this thread, I am finally in need of a set of screw extractors. Having never owned a set nor used a set, I need some advice.



First, could anyone recommend a good set? I'm seriously considering this set. I'd prefer to spend under $200 (under $150 even better).



Second, what is a "proper" technique for removing a broken screw that's rusted in place?



-Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

These also look interesting...



-Ryan

 

[metal tech]

Unfortunately it all depends on the severity of the rust. I'd take the caliper off so the screw points straight up, then PB the top of the screw. Hopefully the PB will soak down the threads and then the easy-out will work. A little tapping around the outside of the screw can help break the rust loose, as can the addition of heat. The old trick of letting candle wax drip onto the threads can help too. The wax wicks down the threads and provides a lube to prevent galling. Try not to use the smallest easy-out, if that thing breaks a dental burr is about the only thing besides an edm machine that will remove it.



Al

 

[mberry]

Metal tech has it just about right. If you cando it safely, use an air hammer on it gently, but firmly to try and loosen the rust. Al knows what I mean and has probably used the tool I mean from time to time. Anyway, my point is to take your time and try not to force it.

 

[SGibson]

It looks like you already have a pilothole to drill to, so just drill it out in steps(1/8,5/32,3/16 bit dia. ) stay as perpendicular as possible and remember the longer the bit the straighter the hole, as you drill this out larger and larger the body of the bleeder will become weaker, after you reach your final size put the ez-out in the hole turn it counterclockwise until it bites in then clamp on some visegrips on the sq. drive of the ez-out and turn counterclockwise while tapping the sq. drive with a ballpeen, if you can find a spray oil in your area called "royal mist" try that, it kicks PB dead where the sun don't shine.

 

[EricBu12]

heres a craftsman tool



http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...rtical=TOOL&pid=00920616000&subcat=Drill+Bits

 

[DieselTweaker]

Ryan



Both are nice sets, Ive used the large set you have posted about very nice keep your bit's sharp and it works great. The second set I havent used but one of the tech's i use to work with had something like that same set up and loved it I think he broke stuff off, just he could use them.



All I can say anytime you have to any kind of work like that just take your time dont rush your self, all it takes is one bit or extractor to break off and you just made one heck of a mess!

 

[Matt400]

Hi Ryan,

The first set you posted looks good. I like to make sure and drill all the way through the broken bolt/stud for the largest possible remover.

After drilling I spray the hole with WD40 and then pressurize with shop air and a rubber tipped nozzle. Refill and pressurize 2-3 times before attempting removal.



I find that the WD manny times works its way into the threads from the back.

 

[RKerner]

As I discuss in this thread, I am finally in need of a set of screw extractors. Having never owned a set nor used a set, I need some advice.



First, could anyone recommend a good set? I'm seriously considering this set. I'd prefer to spend under $200 (under $150 even better).



Second, what is a "proper" technique for removing a broken screw that's rusted in place?



-Ryan

The set you selected should work out if they are made out of good steel. I used to use the spline type with good results. I have seldom, if ever, had good results with the spiral type. Usually, there isn't enough depth to get a good enough grip inside the drilled hole. Or, after drilling and pounding in the spline thingy, you end up with too much pressure pushing the stuck threads even harder into the hole.

Left hand drills are way better. Judging by your picture, this is an easy one as long as there is room to use a drill. The bleeder passage is the drill guide and keeps the bit centered. Using either right hand or left hand bits in increasing size, drill until you have just the threads left. Then, collapse the rest of the threads into the hole and pull them out. Typically, you can feel and hear when the threads start to come out. Otherwise, drill until the threads are exposed and use the correct tap to clean the hole out. Pay attention to not drill too deep, just deep enough to get to the bottom of the bleeder passage. Use a little magnet to remove the tapered bottom of the bleeder if it gets separated from the bleeder body.



Personally, I would use some quality bits and get after it and not go for the extractor kit.



Rick (former ASE Master Tech)

 

[tgbol]

I have a set of left hand drill bits that work really well. Ninety percent of the time the screws will come out while still drilling. As for a rust desolver Mopar Heat Riser Solvent is about the best there is.

 

[rbattelle]

I took delivery of the Hansen (Irwin) extractor set, which includes a set of left handed twist drills. It's my hope that the twist drills will be enough by themselves. I've been PB Blastering them for a few days.



-Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

The set I bought came with both spiral extractors and something called "multi-spline extractors", pictured below.



They have a hex-end on them. Are these supposed to be hammered into the hole, or screwed in like a tap?



-Ryan

 

[Van Blom]

SCREWED IN! If you beat on it you will just rivit the bolt into the hole.

Paul

 

[Dl5treez]

Yup, screwed in. Their "threads" are left handed so as you turn it to the left it'll bite in and hopefully pull the bleeder screw out.



I replied on your other thread about using a left-handed drill bit.

 

[rbattelle]

Okay, I thought so but I wanted to be sure, since no instructions came with the set.



-Ryan

 

[DieselTweaker]

Ryan I have a very large set of those I got from matco very handy.