"search" is great!

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Changed the rear axle lube tonight and in the process found a leak at the right hub area. Went to the web site and did a search for rear axle seals and 2 very helpful posts came up. This is great! Thanks Rodney and Keeno along with several others for all the info along with part numbers for better seals. Sure saves a lot of trouble sharing things like this.

Can anyone tell me about how long it takes to replace one of these seals? I've never had one of the axles out or the hubs off and it's time I learned.

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear with gear locker, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 137K

 

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I've been down this road a few times. Here is my process:
1. Remove the tire
2. Remove the nuts on the axle hub
3. I use a 3lb hammer to smack the axle to loosen and remove the cone shaped 'washers'
4. The axle will then slide out (This is when I clean it off and put the blue gasket goop on so that it has time to set-up)
5. There is a tang on the axle housing to prevent the nut from backing off that is removed with needle nose pliers
6. The large (2 9/16 with rounded corners, I think) socket that I got from NAPA is used to remove the nut
7. I then pull the drum out a little to remove the bearing
8. Remove the drum (Heavy and awkward and may need to back the brake off)
9. I use an old hammer handle to push the seal out the back of the drum buy lying the inner part of the drum down and using hammer handle on the inner bearing and knock it out
10. Clean the drum and install a new seal and don't forget the inner bearing (I don't have a seal driver that big so I use the hammer handle again an CAREFULLY go in a circle until it is in place)
11. I put some wheel bearing grease on the seal which I find helps it last
12. Reinstall the drum and outer bearing
13. Install the large nut. There is a torque spec but I tighten the nut and then back it off one flat. There is another prcedure of multiple torque specs in the service manual but this is how I was shown an what I do
14. Install the tang
15. Replace the axle with cone washers and nuts
16. Install the tire and adjust the rear brake
17. Fill the rear end again. (I like to the jack the opposite side of the truck up to get fliud to the bearings and then re-check the level
This is how I do this.

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90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft

 

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Hey Paccool!

Great to hear that you had good results with "search"!

If you follow through my axle seal posting you'll find that my problem was actually a cracked drum and not the axle seal that was replaced numerous times. This was an area that "Rodney" had suggested to inspect & was right on the money. It would be next to impossible to find a more knowledgable group of folks! Thanks again!

Paccool, the well laid out axle seal approach that "Matt S' has provided looks awesome. I would think an hour per side would be a accurate estimate for you first attempt at axle seal replacement. You'll get quicker if you have to do them 3 or 4 times, Keeno style! No hidden surprises, you'll want to check your service manual for the torque spec on the 'Big Nut', other than that have a good time. I found it to be a rewarding experience (the 1st time)!

Keeno

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1992 W250 5spd. 3. 54 gears, LSD, JRE enhanced VE Injector Pump, BD High Output Injectors, Banks "Stinger Plus" consisting of a replaced 12cm2 wastegated housing, 3 1/2" JRE modified exhaust/muffler, pyro/boost gages, K&N, Skyjacker 2 1/2" front suspension lift to clear 305/70R/16 Goodyear MT's, Mag-Hytec, Amsoil, Rhino liner, Fully Chrominated Aluminum Aftermarket Accessory T-handle Shift Knob

[This message has been edited by KEENO (edited 09-13-2000). ]

 

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In addition to Matt S. instructions consider the following points.

1. ) I am not sure if your drums have the oil slingers. If so then try to clean out as much of the oil as possible. Otherwhise after the job is finished you might get the residue still leaking out and you might think that the new seal is leaking.

good luck
2. ) When you mount the drum/hub assemble try to center it so that you do not damage it.

3,) to assist with the installation of the new seals, I took a piece of plywood and cut a round disk just slightly smaller than the seal and used it to help drive in the new seal.

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92-LE,Cummins,Tach,4x4,5spd,3. 54,Borgeson steering shaft,

 

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My '93 does not have the cones behind axle nuts even though the service manual says it does, it has bolts with no washers. All I have to do is remove the bolts.

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'93 W350 Club Cab, Bright White, 5 sp. , 132K, Factory Options: LE, 4. 10 Limited Slip, 7600 lb. rear springs, tachometer, front stabilizer bar. Mods: Banks stinger plus, Linex bedliner, 25,000 lb gooseneck ball, 10,000 lb receiver, Tekonsha brake controller, POWER WAGON injectors-WAY faster than stock!.

 

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There is an axle gasket on the 92's I assume they all have them. This gasket will need to be replaced.
Gene
92 350 4x4

 

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Well darn, I was going to mention the cones and making sure that you clean the drums good, so that you don't think you have a leak, after you are done. But I see you are in good hands and everyone beat me to it, so good luck.

Rodney

 

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Well, this is turning into one of "those" jobs. Pulled the pickup about half way into the garage tonight to do the work. Everything went real good until I checked the old bearings. Found some pitting but of course it was too late to get more bearings. Also found grooves on the housing where the seal rides. One other thing, the seals I pulled out were the same CR seals that I bought to install. As I sit here I can't remember the number but it is the one that everyone recommended. Don't know how long they have been installed but the rear end was rebuilt at 96K and I'm guessing they were put in at that time so they lasted about 50K.

Since I was sitting half way into the garage, I put it back together so I could move it out and close up. will get the new bearings and do it all over again tomorrow night.

I saw something mentioned about a sleeve of sorts that can be installed to give the seal a new surface to ride on. Can any one tell me more about that?

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear with gear locker, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 137K

 

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The part to cover the groove is called a speedi-sleeve, made by chicago rawhide among others. A good parts store should be able to tell you what you need for your application.

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1995 W350 5 speed dually. Banks stinger, pyro, boost and tach, with more to come... Hey, 'stroke this buddy!

 

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Well, I picked up all the bearings and another new seal today. The parts house said I would need to Mic the area the seal goes at as the speedy sleeves fit real close and the proper one will be needed. Will do that tonight when the bearings go in and will wait for the sleeves until they start leaking again. Will get to do this again, soon I suspect!

Thanks to all for the help, hope I can return the favor in the future.

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, Auto w/4. 10 rear with gear locker, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 3. 5" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, 146K

 

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I made a mistake and hit an extra key and I don't know how to change my last post if I can. The number for my speedy sleeve was 99287RS. Sorry.

Rodney

 

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Rodney, to edit and make corrections just click on the little icon with the pencil it will then take you to message that you posted. You can then make the appropriate changes.

 

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Thanks, I don't post that often, so I never gave it much thought on how to do it.

Rodney