Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Seating wheel bearing ??

[Jeff H]

I gotta replace a u joint on the driver side wheel.

Looking at the haynes manual. In the tune up and maintenance section. They say 20 foot lbs on the axle nut to seat the bearings. But if you go in the drivetrain section. They say it takes over 100 foot lbs on the axle nut to seat the wheel bearings. I think the difference is between the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks?

Could some one give me the correct spec on torque spec for the axle nut? Also what is the size of the nut?

I have a 95 2500 4x4 ctd.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Dunno if this applies, but you might check it out:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133644&highlight=rotor

 

[biggy238]

I know it's redneck but I just tightened the hell out of mine and they've been fine for 35K... I had to buy a socket for mine but I can't remember this late... I'll look tomorrow.

 

[marksmith]

Socket is 1 11/16 If I recall... ...





I too tighten the heck outta mine. Little tricky getting the right load on it when I pulled the hub apart to throw some grease at the bearings. But almost 'stars' tight is where mine are at at the moment.

 

[JFaughn]

the size is 1 11/16 and the tq. is 180 ft. lbs , then replace the haynes with a factory manual.

 

[biggy238]

I knew that the socket was 1 X/16. Replace the haynes. It's trash. . I have one.



Marksmith be carefull about that greasin stuff.



I pulled mine apart to do my brakes the first time (didn't know better, i'm young) and greased mine when they went back together.



Since the hubs are on-serviceable, they used an odd grease (can't remember at the moment what it its) I read on here that it can't be mixed with standard wheel bearing grease (you may or may not have done this) The stuff liquifies when it mixes together and heats a few times. Mine did exacly this, and the inside of my bearings were toast. One roller was even welded to the hub flange. (these trucks are really loud) I wound up buying new calipers, rotors, pads and hubs within a month of eachother (not consecutively). It was a bad financial month.



Just keep an eye on them.

Kyle

 

[marksmith]

Thanks for the heads up.



The have been like this for 10K miles or a touch more. Haven't seen any problems rear its ugly head since they've been on.



Next time I will Carb'n Clean the old grease out and put my own in.



I cannot forsee myself paying the money they want for new hubs if/when my bearings go out. The bearings/races are replaceable and cost less than 40 per side for the dang things.



400 bucks for a hub... just ticks a guy off.

 

[Jschafer]

I think the 20 ft lbs might be for the 2wd not sure. I have a Haynes manual (not to brag it up by any means) it list the spec as 175 ft lbs for the 4x4 hub. just replaced one this past week. If the bearings and race's are replaceable I would like info on that. I paid around $ 200 each for the aftermarket ones in my truck, lifetime warrenty but the first one just failed with less than 40k on it. My original bearings made it 275k

 

[Jeff H]

Will I be able to reuse the wheel seal? Or should I just replace it.

Who makes the wheel bearings for Dodge truck? Hope they would be Timken bearings? If not Does any one know the part number for Timken's.

 

[marksmith]

They are a Timken bearing... dont know the number.



These are the ones inside the hub. If you take out the inner bearing you will need a new seal.



I packed mine as best as I could without taking the inners out of the hub.