Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) second lift pump

[AKostman]

I have just purchased a second lift pump to install back by the fuel tank (98. 5) The kit comes with all hardware, wiring, etc. The pump is another Carter original equipment and a local mechanic says they were designed to push, not pull.



The claim is it will last longer and prolong the life of the original pump since it is supplying fuel to it. This is probably a stupid question but has anyone else tried this approach and did it work?



Thanks

 

[keimmmo]

Many of us have relocated the factory lift pump just ahead of the fuel tank. It is a great mod! When you relocate the pump, I would recommend eliminating ALL the banjo fittings all the way up to the injection pump to improve fuel pressure and flow! That too is a great mod!



DO NOT run two factory pumps on the truck!!! I installed a second factory pump as a pusher pump and left the original in place. It produced too much fuel pressure and caused hot starting problems. Too much pressure can also damage the injection pump!



Steve Keim

 

[CHornsby]

I run two OEM pumps in parallel and have no problsm whatsoever.

 

[rweis]

I think Steve was saying do not run 2 lp's in series (ie one on the frame feeding one on the engine). I have read that the VP wants 13. 5 psi input (no less than 10 no more than 16 (and LOTS of volume, ie full flow fittings) because of a diaphram internal to the VP that is only DESIGNED to flex +- 2. 5mm. More or less psi will make the diaphram flex more than design and result in the diaphram's seal failure (generating a 0216 code).



My . 02



Bob Weis

 

[keimmmo]

Yes, if you run two pumps in series, you get around 30psi of pressure. Way to much for the injection pump! Now, I see no problem running two pumps in parrallel to give more available volumn without increasing the pressure.



Steve Keim

 

[AKostman]

thanks

Thank you for all the info. It sounds like a lot of plumbing to go parallel. So how about running the rear pump only until it gets tired and then use the front and replace the rear?





Thanks

 

[keimmmo]

I run a factory LP relocated to just in front of the tank. I have eliminated the factory LP from the side of the engine. I ALWAYS carry a spare! If I understand you correctly, you are proposing to do exactly what I have been doing for several years. It has worked great for me!



Steve Keim

 

[nanpaul]

I just removed the fuel pump and relocated it next to my fuel tank. I discovered that the two existing banjo fitting on the pressure side of the pump are for 5/16" hose. The banjo existing fitting on the suction side of the pump works well on the 3/8" hose. I am currently trying to find two banjo fittings with a barb connection for 3/8" hose. Suggestions where I can order the needed banjo fitting would be appreciated.

 

[AKostman]

Try www.o-f-i.com (Portland Oregon)



Oregon Fuel Injection.



I purchased my pump kit from them which contained these fittings.

 

[AKostman]

The pump I purchased from Oregon Fuel Injection puts out 7 psi so does not over pressure the system. A local mechanic has been installing the kits for some time and says they work fine and has had no problems.

At first I bypassed the front pump and had 7psi which concerned me so I hooked up both pumps. So far it is working fine.

 

[keimmmo]

The banjo fittings do not flow well! Many of us have replaced them with straight fittings. The Vulcan kit provides all the fittings and brackets to relocate the factory lift pump to in front of the fuel tank. It gives better flow and pressure than the factory system while keeping things simple with only one lift pump. You will have all the pressure you need with just the factory pump and straight fittings!



Do you have a fuel pressure guage? If so, what pressure are you running? Some times adding a pusher pump will give too much pressure and cause hot starting problems down the road... been there.



Steve Keim

 

[wlowe]

I installed a 7 psi pusher pump about a year ago. Works fine, no hard start problems, runs about 22 psi at idle, 16 WOT. Most of the hard start problems are because the pump was wired directly to the ignition/battery, which causes immediate, constant pressure during startup. If you use a relay that is triggered by the OEM pump the ECM controls the output voltage. The pump will run for a couple of seconds when you first turn the key then shuts off until the engine has cranked/started. My pressure at startup is usually only a couple of psi.

 

[BK]

The vulcan kit is the way to go when installing the factor LP back on the frame rail.

The full vulcan kit the way to go if your doing lite bombing.

If you want to save a little money and not doing any bombing. . Geno's has a smaller vulcan kit, for about $50 less.

Geno's actually has both. .



http://www.genosgarage.com/products.asp?dept=178