2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Self paint my truck, question about body trim and badges

[KRStone]

I'm going to do a self-paint job on my truck.



The paint has continued to flake off and I'm getting too close to metal to keep ignoring it. I feel I can do a job at least as good as maaco or scheib.



My '96 Lariat has the plastic/rubber trim down the sides that separates the bottom color from the middle color.



Are these stuck on with adhesive or will I find holes in the body panels with clips on the trim?



I'm considering not putting new ones back on and just going without. Has anyone ever done that? Did it look okay?



What badging should I worry about replacing and what should I just leave off?



I want to get these details decided before I start the project.



KRS

 

[ewcmr2]

Trim strips are just attached with adhesive. I left all the badging off after painting, no one has commented that it looks good/bad without them.

 

[KRStone]

Trim strips are just attached with adhesive. I left all the badging off after painting, no one has commented that it looks good/bad without them.

Did you paint it yourself?

Real auto paint or rustoleum?



KRS

 

[ewcmr2]

I painted it in my driveway. Stupid California green laws meant I had to use really expensive water based auto paint...

Next time I'm going to Vegas for the weekend and bringing back good old acrylic enamel!

 

[JR]

Youll be much happier if you buy a quality automotive paint. The last vehicle I painted was our 4runner its metalic gunmetal gray, a hard color to make look good. Shows the slightest imperfections and is hard to keep from orange peeling. My local Napa carries the Martin Senour brand they can match the color of your vehicle by the vin. Not as high tech as some of the newer color systems where they can match the faded color of your vehicle if you are just painting a panel or a portion of the vehicle, but it is good paint so far its held its color and gloss. And hvlp guns are far superior than the older style cup guns. Lets you utilize much lower air pressure, reducing overspray and less wasted material

 

[HHhuntitall]

Hey!! Lets not knock the Rustoleum too bad!!! I've painted a LOT of bumpers and trailers with the Rustoleum Professional paint, and when using a decent enamel hardener, the paint holds up better then the factory Dodge paint!! (not that that's a really good reference!! :-laf) You're limited on your colors, but compared to automotive paint, it's a lot cheaper!! Luckily, in The Republic of Texas I usually have surplus "Tractor" paint laying around when I need to "touch up" some of these older trucks that have had battle damage... .

 

[AEdelheit]

DuPont Imron 333 is a great paint that you an still buy in California. It's a Polyurethane 2 part paint that is extremely durable and keeps its gloss for a long time, worth looking into. If your gonna go through the work of prepping it's not worth skipping out on good paint, IMO.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Hey!! Lets not knock the Rustoleum too bad!!! I've painted a LOT of bumpers and trailers with the Rustoleum Professional paint, and when using a decent enamel hardener, the paint holds up better then the factory Dodge paint!! (not that that's a really good reference!! :-laf) You're limited on your colors, but compared to automotive paint, it's a lot cheaper!! Luckily, in The Republic of Texas I usually have surplus "Tractor" paint laying around when I need to "touch up" some of these older trucks that have had battle damage... .

Yep, I used it the same way with a good enamel hardner even for painting metal gates and fence posts. It holds up better than anything else I've used. It's too bad Rustoleum isn't available in Minneapolis-Moline Prarie Gold (PG2) for using to repaint my old tractor.



Bill

 

[JR]

Hey!! Lets not knock the Rustoleum too bad!!! I've painted a LOT of bumpers and trailers with the Rustoleum Professional paint, and when using a decent enamel hardener, the paint holds up better then the factory Dodge paint!! (not that that's a really good reference!! :-laf) You're limited on your colors, but compared to automotive paint, it's a lot cheaper!! Luckily, in The Republic of Texas I usually have surplus "Tractor" paint laying around when I need to "touch up" some of these older trucks that have had battle damage... .

Well hell junior international harvestor red it is!:-laf if thats what makes ya happy then go for it!but automotive paint will certainly look much better if your going to spend time to prep it proper i would go automotive. But if all your worried about is a coat of paint to protect your metal and the truck gets rode hard and put away wet, then break out the brushes my friend and get to slappin

 

[HHhuntitall]

Well hell junior international harvestor red it is!:-laf if thats what makes ya happy then go for it!but automotive paint will certainly look much better if your going to spend time to prep it proper i would go automotive. But if all your worried about is a coat of paint to protect your metal and the truck gets rode hard and put away wet, then break out the brushes my friend and get to slappin

HA!!! :-laf No brushes for me, just a good brass hammer, a slide hammer, and a little bondo!! Rust prevention is the PRIMARY purpose, but let's not forget, there is much more than IH colors available... . Ever looked at the blue and gray on a New Holland? Or perhaps the Versatile Yellow-Gold? Realistically, no doubt that automotive paint is the way to go, but for a beater, that I will be repainting and hammering on again in two years..... meh, let's forgoe the big bills!!

 

[KRStone]

Here is my truck, paint is ALOT worse now.



Local auto paint shop quoted $500-ish for paint. No Can Do.



Factory colors had some pearl in them. NOT going to even attempt to match that. Just get close to the colors.

 

[KRStone]

The tailgate is a good example of what was happening elsewhere on the truck paint a few years back.



Now the tailgate and both rear quarter panels have shed all of the original grey paint and have VERY thin primer left

 

[HHhuntitall]

Hmmm, belt sander and lots of wet sanding by hand... ... A good primer, sanding, and then some quality paint..... I'll try to upload some pics of one of my trailers later this evening... . I painted it with some Rustoleum Professional Machine Gray. It's ok, definitely not the color of Dodge's gray, but it's close... . The red may have to be IH red!! :-laf

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I think they look better without the side molding. Base-model trucks didn't have it. Have to be careful in parking lots though. Or I like the 24v style moldings.



DIY paint is going on my truck this winter...



IMHO, with sanding materials, masking materials, primer, and worthwhile quality paint, doing a pro-quality job for under $500 will be tough. The cheapo shops use low quality paint and tend to do a poor job masking and sanding. If the guys at the cheapo shops take pride in their work and take the time to do a good job, they'll probably get fired for working too slow. I worked in one of those shops for a while, 20 years ago. I did body and mechanical work, but never painted a customer car. I did paint a couple of my own cars after hours and I'm proud of the work. I wouldn't do it for somebody else for less than $2500, and really, I probably just wouldn't do it at all.