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Separating turbo housings, different twist maybe.

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computer and TPS question

Need advise on hit and run..

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Got a hx40-16 off a C-series Cummins. Well it was mounted upside down on the exhaust manifold. So the two housings and center section are all out of wack, compared to our setup. When bolted to our manifold, the oil drain is on top and oil supply is on bottom. Then the compressor outlet faces the engine pointing below the exhaust manifold. So the center section needs flipped over, and then probly the compressor housing will need to be clocked.



Here's my problem/issue. Right now I have it mounted on my donor engine. That way I can loosen the bolts and get the center section flipped around. Got all the bolts loose, clamps removed, hit the compressor housing with a rubber mallet, instead of the compressor AND center section moving, the center section stays rusted in place and the compressor housing itself rotates around. WTH? I thought that big snap ring hold the c. housing in place?? BTW, I've got only one center section bolt left that I can use to try to help separate the turbo from exhaust housing. Its threaded as far out as it will go, and still no separation.



The search feature using 'housing' didn't yield nothing except, Nascar Mark mentioned using small blocks or pieces of wood as spacers and beating them evenly between the two housings will help part them?... What do you guys think? Is that what I need to do and this is normal, just a rusted up turbo? Or do I have another issue/problem that needs dealt with, the compressor housing rotating around the center section? Tia.
 
The snap ring will not, in some cases, hold the comp housing. It's just a snap ring. It will not have the clamping force the band clamp (t bolt clamp) will impose upon your H1C. I have in some cases, also been able to rotate the comp housing with a snap ring in place.



Bill, You gotta soak that thing in some quality penetrating oil for some time. Also warming the flange may help although I have never had to attempt that.



GL
 
Got them separated. Tried the wooden blocks, but it wouldn't budge, they just got smashed. So I did what everyone else said to do, use one of the bolts to help ease them apart... but since the bolts were too short, I did the ole find a LONGER bolt with same threads in the toolbox trick! Those 10mm bolts that holddown the intake manifold plate are same threads and a little longer, they did the trick. Used some extra flat metal I had laying around to back the 10mm bolts against. Worked on one side, while making sure the wheel kept free. Then to opposite side to make sure I was working on it evenly, same process, and it came apart. All out of pb so that might have made the job a little more difficult... had to use wd:rolleyes:. Now to find out what type of flange for the downpipe will be needed, then I'll put it back together with some antiseze between the center section and exhaust housing.
 
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