Setting a weight distribution hitch

[willy1947]

Does anyone know how tight the chains should be on a weight distribution hitch?



I went from a 1994 2500 to a 2004 3500 DRW and noticed when I hook up to my trailer, the chain tension isn't as tight as before. But it is till pretty snug.



Anyone think this is a problem? I can move it up one link, but I think that may be too tight. Just trying to avoid buying a new hitch



I've towed once with it, and it seemed fine.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[HBarlow]

Willy1947



You didn't provide trailer info so I'll answer your question in general terms. Tongue weight is the important factor.



The purpose of a weight equalizing hitch is to distribute trailer tongue weight between tow vehicle and trailer axles. The entire tongue weight of a heavy trailer resting on the rear of a tow vehicle can overload the rear axle, unload the front axle, and destablilize the towing vehicle by reducing front wheel steering and braking traction. This was important years ago when trailer pullers were sedans and light pickups. It is not very important on a Dodge Ram 3500 which can easily and safely carry the entire trailer tongue weight on the hitch ball (within truck and hitch specs). An unloaded Dodge-Cummins is heavy on the front wheels so the tongue weight of a heavy trailer will balance the weight between front and rear making the truck more stable.



The proper setup method for light trucks is to park truck and trailer on a level surface, disconnected, and measure the distances from the bottom edges of front and rear bumpers of the puller to the ground. Then, with trailer connected, measure the ride heights again. The goal is to create some spring deflection at the front as well as at the rear. More precisely, adjust the trunnion bar chains to distribute approximately 1/2 of the tongue weight to the rear axle and 1/4 to the front axle. The other 1/4 is shifted to the trailer axles. These figures are approximate to simplify explanation.



I tow an 8500# TT with a 3500 using a Reese dual-cam hitch assembly. A Reese dual-cam hitch needs tension on the trunnion bars to enable the anti-sway feature of the dual-cam to function but I allow most of the tongue weight of my trailer to ride on the rear axle of my Dodge. The Dodge Ram doesn't need weight transfer to the front wheels. When hitched up for travel with a full load of fuel in main and 70 gallon auxiliary tank, a Generac, and all the tools, equipment, wood leveling blocks, and other junk I carry, plus the tongue weight of my TT, the Dodge sits close to level instead of high in the rear as when unloaded.



I hope this answers your question.



Harvey

 

[willy1947]

It's a 8. 5'x22' enclosed cargo trailer. It's about a 10,000# fully loaded. I carry a Jeep inside and the front has been converted into a living quarters/workshop.



I have an EZ hitch, with a anti-sway bar, and weight distribution.



When loaded and connected to my new truck, the truck sets perfectly level. The trailer is a little high in the front, but not too much. I have to purchase a different hitch to lower it anymore. But I think 1 more notch lower may be too much.



I'll keep and eye on things and see how well it continues to tow. I am thinking about having an awning installed and may have the trailer place look at everything then. I may see about getting a little larger drop for it.



Thanks for the reply,

Dave

 

[HBarlow]

The rule of thumb used by the trailer industry is tongue weight of 12% to 15% of gross trailer weight for stable towing. With a properly set up hitch your trailer would put about 1200# to 1500# on the ball, figures that I think exceed the weight rating of the OEM Dodge hitch platform. If your weight estimate is correct (you may want to weigh it) you might want to consider an aftermarket Class V hitch with higher weight capacity from a quality manufacturer. If you do a lot of towing, your Dodge hitch platform will fail. Notice I didn't say "might fail", I said "will fail. " Mine did and I've only towed a TT with about 1000# of hitch weight. At around 90k miles the hitch became so worn that I had take-up slack caused by an elongated hole for the pin that secures the hitch head in the receiver. When I removed the OEM hitch I discovered major cracks at the rear mounting ears of the Dodge platform. In a few more thousand miles of towing the rear mounting ears would have separated from the hitch platform and placed even more stress on the middle and front mounting ears. If I had not discovered the problem the entire hitch platform could have separated from the truck! Scary to contemplate.



Trailers towed with a nose-up attitude usually demonstrate sway and wander. The upward tow angle places more weight on the rear trailer tires and less on the front. It also changes the effect of air flow over the trailer. An adjustable hitch draw bar and possibly a hitch ball with a taller base would allow you to set the towing height so the trailer tows level.



Harvey

 

[BV]

WD hitch setup

My instructions which can with the Reese hitch indicate that you want to back up to the trailer, measure the ball height, hook up trailer then measure the ball height again. The idea is to put just enough tension on the chains/bars to bring the truck back to level or close to it.



CAUTION: I learned the hard way that you do not want to bring the ball height past the unloaded height because it removes weight from the drive wheels. We had a tense few seconds when the back end broke loose on a wet corner