Here I am

Setting up garage for safe welding

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Portable Saw Mill

New Horse in the Stable!!!

JStieger

TDR MEMBER
After about 8 years of envying people that can fabricate awesome things while I continued to pay for the services, researching, and a college night course on welding, I finally pulled the trigger and bought a Millermatic 211 Autoset.

The following are safety items which I already have or will have prior to even starting:

-fire extinguisher
-flammable storage cabinet
-welding blankets
-helmet
-leathers
-ear plugs
-water source

Looking online on various enthusiast sites I see that many people weld in their garages. Some of these garages are not the most spacious either. I have a 2 car attached garage, but I was planning on doing most of the work outside until I figured that if I reorganize my garage I can probably create enough safe area for welding.

I saw this welding table setup online that looks interesting.

#ad


This table is not mobile, but note that the wall backing is particle board.

1) Is this safe?
2) If not, what would be a better wall backing? Sheetrock, cement board, metal sheet? Don't even think about doing this for fear of burning the house down?
3) What is a good safe circumference to keep clear around a welding work area?

I guess another alternative is to make a mobile welding table that I can wheel outside when needed.
 
I prefer welding outside rather than in my shop/garage. Too much splatter, fumes and the thought of a fire.
---
Those little red hot splatter bb's like to go where leaves blow in and collect under your work bench while you aren't watching. That said, if it's raining I will sometimes weld just inside the roll-up door.
---
Grinding is another component of the weld process and the grinding sparks are an issue as well. (Don't weld or grind near your vehicles or other nicely painted products.)
---
Add a couple of wheels to one end of that table and a couple of handles to the other end and move it like a wheel barrow. Otherwise, I would wall off the area with cement board if you're set on inside welding.
---
Just my 2 cents.
 
OSB is actually quite flame resistant, it's engineered this way to make the houses we build with it safer. I wouldn't hesitate to weld around the osb, I do it all the time. Only you know what else you have laying around that will burn. Obviously it would be better to overlay it with some thin sheet steel or hardy board. A good rule of thumb is when your done welding, clean up and hang out for at least 1/2hr to do a fire watch.
 
All good ideas.
IMHO, wheel it over near the garage door. Inside but near the door where you can clean-up easier. Welding and grinding spatter will fly and bounce into nooks and crannies. Furthermore. Out near the door, you have room to maneuver longer work pieces without being cramped in a corner. Another consideration is the shielding gas for the wire feed. If you use CO2, or a mixed gas, or even flux core wire. Wind is your enemy! A breeze will blow away the cover gas and leave you with a porous weld deposit.
GregH
 
Also if you have windows in your garage doors, every spark that hits it will pit the glass and will result in a rust streak running down it once it gets some humidity. As already mentioned, the same applies to you vehicles paint and glass and rims, the siding on your house/garage as well. On the walls, I'd make sure that you put some trim at the bottom and top of the osb so that the little glowing bb's don't roll under or get shot into the cracks, same for the holes in the peg board, what's behind it? If you are working, don't step on your stainless running boards/steps with your boots, the carbon debris that is on the bottom of your boot will be driven into the surface and contaminate it and rust will appear there, if you have stainless that is. I own a fab shop and am very conciensous of this since my boards are stainless. The concrete can also get carbon deposits if you grind towards it in a localized spot as well as welding bombs dropping in a localized spot and it will end up being a rust spot. The surface in extreme cases will pop chunks of concrete out as well and pit your surface, in or outside of course. I've made 4" square areas 3/4" thick pop out from welding close to it, or torching. Just something to consider if your concrete matters to you. If you live in town some neighbours may not like the welding outside. I've witnessed blinded mice running around in the shop that would run into your foot because they had welders flash. I think this may be where the three blind mice came from.;)
This applies to your pets as well, cats like to try to watch.
 
Mpaulson, that mice deal is hilarious!
I do my metalworking outside. I saw a friend's shed burn down when he tacked something inside. I know NYC rule for fire watch is to stick around for an hour after all work is done. Or in other words last arc one hour at least before you close up.
 
This is what I'm using. The top is 3/4" and the whole thing's gotta weigh around 700+ lbs. I scored the vice on Craigslist and it's a slug. I might fancy up the table with some accessories but most of that seams more at home on my welding cart. I won't add castors, I like having in firmly planted on the ground when I'm yanking on the vice. I use a Harbor Freight 1000lb hydraulic lift table to move it around.
#ad
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Woodenhead,
That hydraulic lift table is really a handy idea! But, I'm sure you have more uses for it than just moving one table?
A couple of light duty (2.5 ton) hydraulic bottle jacks, captured at each end of the table, pushing on sliding vertical frame(s) with a set of 2 castors on each end, could be fabricated. Raise, position and lower. They would be a permanent part of the welding table. As heavy as that table is, all the help you could get would be GOOD! A solidly anchored table is a must when wrenching or crunchin' something in the vice!
GregH
 
Wind is your enemy and the garage can be a great place to weld. Just back out the vehicles and you have lots of room. I have a welding blanket to protect stuff if I'm in a tight area (eg. welding on a trailer to protect the tires and bearings). If water is handy then a hose and sprayer for those times when things go wrong. A chemical extinguisher is a pain to clean up. I bought a metal band saw for cutting because it's a lot better than a chop saw:
#ad
 
JStieger,
Those work great for small stuff! I made a platen for my portaband that allows me to do similar cutting as you have pictured.
GregH
 
Woodenhead,
That hydraulic lift table is really a handy idea! But, I'm sure you have more uses for it than just moving one table?
A couple of light duty (2.5 ton) hydraulic bottle jacks, captured at each end of the table, pushing on sliding vertical frame(s) with a set of 2 castors on each end, could be fabricated. Raise, position and lower. They would be a permanent part of the welding table. As heavy as that table is, all the help you could get would be GOOD! A solidly anchored table is a must when wrenching or crunchin' something in the vice!
GregH

Yes, the hydraulic lift table gets used for plenty of things, motorcycle/4 wheeler lift, adjustable step for getting under the hood, unloading heavy stuff from the truck...
I guess I could rig something up permanent but the lift table is already here and with 2600 sq-ft of floor space I don't need to move the table too often.
 
I have a chop saw, but bought this recently:

#ad

I love these, I had my my SWAG table for about 2 years now. Awesome for just about everything. I also have a Enco 7x12 band saw that I couldn't live without. Once I broke free from the abrasive wheels, I never looked back. My 4-1/2 angle grinder still gets a lot of work out with a cutting wheel though.
 
Back
Top