Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Several problems to work out. Need advice.

[tolmsted]

First the good news:



I replaced my injectors last week w/ Rv275's and the engine runs much better, starts better and has good response also.



Now the Bad news.



I also replaced the TPS and I still have trouble in 4 gear under engine load with hesitation and loss of power then surging engine. In the 1400rpm range. Guess I'll try resetting the TPS voltage again and see if it clears up.



Next problem: I have a code 522 "oil pressure voltage too low oil pressure sending unit (sensor) voltage input below the minimum acceptable voltage". That's a new one to me.

Can this be purchased from a local parts store?



I'll post a update here after the TPS rework.



Thanks, Tom

 

[BGlidewell]

Tom,
It would not hurt to check a local store. I got a replacement fuel pump from autozone and it was the exact same unit as was in the tank OEM for 1/3 the price.

 

[tolmsted]

Tom,

It would not hurt to check a local store. I got a replacement fuel pump from autozone and it was the exact same unit as was in the tank OEM for 1/3 the price.

Thanks.

Been checking prices, $$$$ out of site for this little unit,

Orilly's sic $211. oo

Rockauto $155. oo

Autozone $193. oo



Tried Cummins Rocky Mountian but need to call again as they did not answer the phone, business must be good for them. Duh... .

 

[JLandry]

You can purchase a genuine Cummins oil pressure sender for under $90 on this website:

Hoesli Diesel

Still not cheap but better than what you've found so far.

John L.

EDIT: Depending on the year of your truck, the current Cummins oil pressure sender (part number 4921511) may or may not fit your wiring harness. Do a Google search on the Cummins part number to find out more information on this.

 

[tolmsted]

UPDATE:

I was able to get the sensor from the local Rocky Mountain Cummins this morning. My cost was $78. 66 with a 10% discount being a RMC booster member. The part #4921511 has the three prongs and the factory wiring will just plugin. Oo.



Waiting for the engine to cool down so I can clean the area of work. I discovered this morning that the water-in-fuel valve piece of crap is leaking again and that fuel is all over the engine side, starter, bell housing, transmission, etc. What a mess!!!!!



This mess really makes me mad again so this time I'm going to plug that dam little drain tube with a wood piece of dowel and a small hose clamp and see if that will put a stop to the fuel spray. It really is upsetting that DC still makes that small plastic piece of crap. DUH.....



Sorry to vent folks but it's been one thing after another.



Thanks for the advice.

Cheers, Tom

 

[tolmsted]

Update #2

Didn't recalibrate the voltage for the TPS, but did the, slowly depress the pedal 3 times, and that so far, seems to have cleared up the hesitation problem I was having.

Next: got the cleanup of fuel spill/spray done and replaced the oil sensor.
Attacked that sucker from the top side. I'm getting older so I place an old moving blanket I have over the battery, radiator bellcrank, radiator top hose, etc. That makes it easier to lay on the top and reach down under the fuel filter to the sensor. The original sensor required an 1-1/4" SAE deep socket to remove and the new sensor required a 27MM deep socket to install.

The old sensor was hard to unscrew, maybe due to thread dope. The new sensor had a seal at the base of the threads and this made it very easy to install and tighten up.

Took it for a short drive and guess what? My dash oil pressure gauge really works now. Before, for years, it only went up to 40psi upon starting and just sit there. Now at idle it will be about 38PSI and go up to about the next mark @ 1,900rpm, assuming the next mark is 60PSI I'm pleased to see the action.

Just heard oil dropped below $100. 00 PB that's good news.

Thanks TDR Members for your help.

Tom

 

[JLandry]

Took it for a short drive and guess what? My dash oil pressure gauge really works now. Before, for years, it only went up to 40psi upon starting and just sit there. Now at idle it will be about 38PSI and go up to about the next mark @ 1,900rpm, assuming the next mark is 60PSI I'm pleased to see the action.

Congratulations on a successful repair!



Your oil pressure display numbers sound similar to mine.



Drive safe,



John L.

 

[AABEN]

didn't recalibrate the voltage for the tps, but did the, slowly depress the pedal 3 times, and that so far, seems to have cleared up the hesitation problem i was having.



Next: Got the cleanup of fuel spill/spray done and replaced the oil sensor.

Attacked that sucker from the top side. I'm getting older so i place an old moving blanket i have over the battery, radiator bellcrank, radiator top hose, etc. That makes it easier to lay on the top and reach down under the fuel filter to the sensor. The original sensor required an 1-1/4" sae deep socket to remove and the new sensor required a 27mm deep socket to install.



The old sensor was hard to unscrew, maybe due to thread dope. The new sensor had a seal at the base of the threads and this made it very easy to install and tighten up.



Took it for a short drive and guess what? My dash oil pressure gauge really works now. Before, for years, it only went up to 40psi upon starting and just sit there. Now at idle it will be about 38psi and go up to about the next mark @ 1,900rpm, assuming the next mark is 60psi i'm pleased to see the action.



Just heard oil dropped below $100. 00 pb that's good news.



Thanks tdr members for your help.



Tom

thanks for the info

 

[tolmsted]

You take care John L.