Here I am

Shakedown fer 'Old Ugly"

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

burn water

Running Out Of Fuel

Status
Not open for further replies.
Drove 'Old Ugly through town and up the mountain today, about 50 miles. Observations;

1. The engine with the new cam and lifters is more noisy than it was before. It may take a while to settle in.

2. The South Bend Clutch performed very smoothly in severe rush hour traffic start and stops. I think I hit every light the first 15 miles in the metro area.

3. The new thermostat runs hotter than the last one. Will check for air in the coolant system.

4. The rear main seal is holding. More on this seal later after I get some miles on it.

5. One leak, on the output seal, rear t-case. It may or may not seal itself. Will be watching closely. May have to replace it.

6. The speedometer dont work. Driving by the seat of my britches!

GregH
 
Air in radiator

Found a couple inches of freeboard when I opened the radiator cap. Topped it off. Arranged for a new t-case seal and possible sending unit fix for the speedometer. Next week. Got lots of hauling to do this weekend. The truck got put to work right away. Picked up some used cabinets on the way home yesterday, to install in the shop. They are 8' long and 3'-4' tall. Have to unload them and then do trash hauling. That cam and clutch will be broke in in no time. Just have to keep the gear oil jug handy:rolleyes:. GregH
 
No Start!!!

Tried to start this AM. Turned over smartly but no start. Only 250 miles on odometer since last fill. Can normally go 360+ miles before the fuel light comes on. Has my fuel mileage taken a dump with this new cam? Or is there an air pocket? Who knows? Right now I am pretty frustrated cause I am on foot. 3 vehicles down at once. GregH
 
might want to check the fuel return lines down near the rocker cover. . during the cam swap some might be sucking air? etc. .
 
might want to check the fuel return lines down near the rocker cover. . during the cam swap some might be sucking air? etc. .



Ill get some fuel as soon as I can get on the road. I will check the fuel line connections before I try to start it again. Thanks. GregH
 
Not a good thought but... . did somebody steal fuel? Or was the gauge where it was when you started your project?
 
Not a good thought but... . did somebody steal fuel? Or was the gauge where it was when you started your project?



The Gauge hasnt worked for many years. I have been relying on knowing the approximate mileage and the low fuel light. It usually comes on with 5 gallons in the tank. The low fuel light is not on! The truck started and ran fine before the trip to Cummins and when I drove it home. Just in case, I will get a few gallons of fuel, check the fuses and then try the manual lever on the lift pump. As well as try the fittings on the fuel lines around the nozzles. If that dont work. I'll post again. Not going to do much tomorrow. Gotta have a break. I hate vehicles#@$%!! Thanks for your help. GregH
 
After working on mine and disturbing lots of stuff I had a small, I mean tiny, air leak between Lift pump and VE. If I ran every day all was OK, but if I parked it for 2-3 days it would bleed fuel back toward the fuel tank and I had to crank it a bit to get fuel back to the IP. Finally found the leak through very frustrating process of elimination.

I feel for you and hope you are just out of fuel.

Ken
 
Never ending vehicle maintainence!

Moab4X4 and Dave, Monday, my friend and I put a new radiator in my moms Ferd Taurus. What a pain. Another of FERDS better Ideas? That plastic tank on the driver side just blew out for no apparent reason! I got the truck fueled up yesterday with several trips with one gallon fuel containers. Had other family responsibilities today. Will try to start "Old Ugly" tomorrow. Will be checking everything and will use the manual pump on the lift pump to bring fuel up to the filter, at least. Will also check fuses to make sure there is a reason the low fuel light has not come on. Thanks gents. GregH
 
Daniel, Thats an extinct possibility:-laf. Am going to change the fuel filter and then the lift pump. I could not get it to fire today. One step at a time. GregH
 
Throwing parts at it!

Replaced the fuel filter today. The manual lever on the lift pump seemed to work well flushing out the last bit of fuel as I snugged the filter against the gasket. Still would not even stumble, let alone fire. I can install a new lift pump with some reasonable weather and if my back and neck cooperates. Cummins cost for a new lift pump installed is $550 plus the haul charge. There is no guarantee that is the problem. Pump cost is $113 plus a gasket.

The haul charge is $60 hookup plus $3 per mile @ 50 miles!!!:{. I am no longer amused :mad:GregH
 
When you are cranking it are you cracking the injector fuel line nuts open?. . if your not it will take a LONG TIME TO BLEED / START. . I'd crack the lines and crank until fuel is spraying out and then close them down as they each bleedthe air and start spraying fuel... That should work. . if your getting 12volts at the fuel shut off solinoid (sp?) and you can not get fuel to bleed out of the cracked open fuel injector lines... . then take out the fuel shutoff solinoid and remove the rubber plunger and spring and reinstall it with out them. . try that... . the manual lever will still allow you to shut it down. . that basically guts the solinoid. . like mine . . hehe

Let us know if that works. .

Thanks

Deo
 
When you are cranking it are you cracking the injector fuel line nuts open?. . if your not it will take a LONG TIME TO BLEED / START. . I'd crack the lines and crank until fuel is spraying out and then close them down as they each bleedthe air and start spraying fuel... That should work. . if your getting 12volts at the fuel shut off solinoid (sp?) and you can not get fuel to bleed out of the cracked open fuel injector lines... . then take out the fuel shutoff solinoid and remove the rubber plunger and spring and reinstall it with out them. . try that... . the manual lever will still allow you to shut it down. . that basically guts the solinoid. . like mine . . hehe

Let us know if that works. .

Thanks

Deo



DEO, thanks for the reality check. I have to rethink this. Going to get my engine book and do a little studying and then find my 17MM wrench and crach some injector nuts. The frustrating part of this is, I have never run out of fuel before and I have never had to bleed my fuel system. But if that is all it is, it would be a GIFT from ABOVE. GregH
 
If you don't bleed the air out till non bubbling fuel is purging the cracked open injector nuts you its 90% unstartable. . I bet this is you issue. did you fill you fuel filter before installing it and the bleed the filter with the manual lever while cracking the banjo bleeder on the head ? thats may help too. . let uus know how this works out for you...

Thanks

Deo
 
DEO, I always fill the fuel filter. After its installed to the gasket, I back it off enough to manually pump fuel up until it overflows at the gasket then tighten it. The rest I have never done. I'll be tackleing this as I refamiliarize myself with the system, using the Cummins engine book. Thanks again. I got nothing to loose at this point. GregH
 
Bleed out fuel system

Well, here's where the rubber meets the road. Loosened the banjo bolt above the fuel filter. Pumped the manual lever a couple of times and got a good flow of fuel. Retightened it. Loosened the injector fuel nuts and turned it over for about 20 seconds and got a pretty good flow of fuel. Some of it bubbly. Tightened the injector fuel line nuts. Recharging the battery right now. Going to go through the bleed procedure at the injectors one at a time this go around. GregH
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top