Here I am

She left me stranded today

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Got a 1990 1st gen 250 4x4 for project vehicle

Fuel heater O-ring.

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Well i was pulling into a parking spot today and the fuse block had some how come in contact with my foot when i was pressing on the brake. The truck stumbled a bit, and like an idiot, i tried to push the block back up under the dash. The truck died and never would restart. I had noticed the fuse block had started to sag and i had meant to re-secure it in the very near future. Now it looks like i'm going to be shooting some wires. Anybody ever experience anything similar to this? When i bought the truck the fuse box was tied to the column with zip ties so i don't know where the correct place is for it to mount. Luckily this was on base so it can sit there for a couple days until i figure it out. Has anybody done a complete re-wire on there truck? I know it sounds a bit extreme but if i'm planning on keeping the truck until the body rots off it might be something to look into. thanks!
 
Ahhh, I'd say look at the fusible links on the fender behind the battery. If you shorted through the fuse block, and have no fire at the primary fuse pins, I'd go to the links first. They're where most gremlins hatch.



As for rewiring the whole thing, I'd look for a good donor truck and pull the loom from that if you have to replace a lot of it. I've done partial loom rebuilds, and it's pretty tedious work. Of, course, if I didn't try to add my own relays and switches in there, it might help with the time.....
 
I agree on the fusible link out neer the battery . How ever the fuse blocks is in the stupidest spot there ever could be . They were in the best spot when they were in the

glove box like the 70's dodges were that was nice , if any one produced a better location

to move them id stand in line to buy one . The fuse block is suppose to be in the so called cradle and the tab sits in the square hole , pull the 4 screws and its accessible , but its still a pain though
 
Well, I think it would work well attached to the firewall, if it were more accessible. Peterbilt and KW both do that, and you can easily reach them standing from outside... ... the second gens aren't too bad. But for repair work, they're all a PITA!!! If I could move mine, I'd probably go with an all weather block under the hood, myself. Lots of time and work there, though.
 
Thanks for the help guys, i'll start with those links. I'm a total greenhorn when it comes to electrical troubleshooting but I do have a buddy to help out. It's just down the road from where I work so i'll shoot over there on lunch. Hypothetically speaking, how hard would it be to relocate the fuse block to the firewall or glove box, or heck anywhere than where it is? Is it just disconnect the wires and pull them back through? If I ever did have somebody do a rewire that might be something to consider. Thanks!
 
I don't think there's currently enough wire to move it to the firewall where it will adequately clear the clutch or brake pedal... ... That's kind of a dead end street. I suppose there could be a way to mount it to the steering column..... I've tie-strapped a lot of 'em to it before.
 
Hey everybody, thanks for the help! Took her to the local electrical guru, replaced a fusible link and cleaned up A LOT of the wiring bumper to bumper. They did in a day what would have taken me a week to do. New license plate lights as well as new trailer wiring. Turned out great, now back to all the other issues i'm trying to straighten out. Need to do gears and put some more work into the suspension. Need new bushings for the front shackles and need to identify a lot of the suspension "racket". The saga continues:D
 
Did you ever ask Alcan about your springs being too long?

Not as of yet, that's first on my list Monday. I'm going to measure them this weekend and send them some pictures if i can. I'm hoping they're willing to work with me on this. I've been putting it off because i've been driving it every day.
 
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