Shifting Reccomendations

[JThacker]

What is the best way to scoot down the road faster and not abuse my clutch too much when shifting. #1 Once shifted up release the clutch completely before rolling on the fuel or 2# Before releasing the clutch fully rolling on the fuel first? Seems like #2 gets me down the road faster but at what cost to my clutch? Thanks.

 

[rashwor]

#2 is murder on a clutch.

 

[GCroyle]

Minimize Slip time

The more you expose the disc and castings to slipping, the faster the clutch wears. From a standing start you are asking the disc to accelerate (via slippage) from zero RPM to the engine RPM, the higher the engine RPM the longer the engagement (unless you spin the tires) and more facing material will be worn off. Tom and Ray on Cartalk NPR described the best (least amount of clutch wear) engaement from a standing start as having the engine on the verge of stalling throughout the engagement. Once things are rolling, the smoothest shifts happen when you match road speed-> gear selection-> engine speed, or "matched shifts".



The more you play, the more you pay.

 

[fkovalski]

... Tom and Ray on Cartalk NPR described the best (least amount of clutch wear) engaement from a standing start as having the engine on the verge of stalling throughout the engagement. ... .

AGREED, but 1 question... . does the "verge of stalling" have any negative affect on the engine? i. e. negative aspects of "lugging"?

 

[GCroyle]

Verge of Stalling

Good question / comment. Don't have a definitive answer, but to extend service life of the facings and castings, think in the direction of verge of stalling, but I wouldn't put the engine into an imminent stall or lugging situation.



Case in point, we just completed a courtesy installation on a Mitsubishi Eclipse 2001 3. 0L that now has it's 5th clutch in 47,000 miles. I just returned the car to the owner, but I made him take me for a drive through our town and observed his driving style. It did not take long to notice that he would run it up to 2,000 + RPM during a prolonged friction zone engagement. This was just grinding away facing un-necessarily. We had a frank discussion and I pointed out the error of his friction zone technique. But there was more, the "installers" had their two cents worth on helping kill the systems.



The OE flywheel had three installations, OE plus two R&R's for SLIPPAGE and the flywheel was NEVER resurfaced. One shop took a grinder / buffer to it, but the dowel pins were never removed, it looked like you know what, then a new F/W was installed and it is clear that the proper cleaning of the new F/W was not done at install. Obvious drip stains from the top 3 bolt holes showed that this F/W was at least "wet" in the bolt holes and this contaminated the facings while the installation was in process.



Any clutch is only as good as the details used to install it.

 

[Buffalo]

On the third Gen. , stickshift trucks, it's almost impossible to stall the engine by letting the clutch out & not giving the engine some throttle when the clutch starts to engage.



DC recommends that you let the clutch out & once it engages, start giving the engine some more fuel. The computer senses the load being put on the engine & gives some more rpm's. It works great.



I've let the clutch out with my trailer hitched up, on a hill & the clutch engaged beautifully. Once it was engaged, then I started adding fuel.



The DC clutch is the nicest, most foolproof clutch I've ever used. And I've had many, over the years.



Joe F. (Buffalo)

 

[fkovalski]

On the third Gen. , stickshift trucks, it's almost impossible to stall the engine by letting the clutch out & not giving the engine some throttle when the clutch starts to engage... .

In which gear? I agree with you on this with respect to 1st gear, but I hardly ever start out in 1st (maybe uphill with my TC. ) But, most of my "move from stop" position is done launching from 2nd and I have almost stalled it (and prolly could if you offered me a $1 bill :-laf )

 

[Troll]

I dont like the way my truck launchs in second gear, I agree that it gets you across intersections faster, however it sure sounds like it is lugging the engine too much and it feels like it is slipping too much also. I do not have any proof, I just dont like the "mushy" feeling. I am also quite sure that lugging a "mere mortal" engine is not good for it, but I have not read much about lugging the CTD and its effects; however it can't be good for it.

 

[formula]

I always make sure that my clutch is fully engaged before putting on the power. If you get your clutch - shift - throttle timing down then you can shift quickly, save your clutch and still have good power. One thing that's a bit wierd to get used to is that to avoid having the rpm flare up when you release the clutch you need to quickly get off of the throttle just before. When I upshift, I start to release the clutch and floor the throttle as the shifter is dropping into the next gear. It only takes a split second for this to happen, but the clutch does not slip, the gears do not grind and it also helps to ensure that the clutch disc and the flywheel are synched up to prevent bucking and make for a smooth shift.



On another note... ... The ECM sure does make things easy when pulling the boat up the ramp. Just put in 1st and ease out clutch, no throttle needed. I had the gf drive it up the ramp a couple of weeks ago..... she apparently did not understand EASE the clutch out. Truck and trailer sideways all the way up the ramp :-laf :-laf



Sean

 

[SHobbs]

Usually start in 1st, 2nd just dont sound right. 2nd seems like a little lugging and clutch slippage, I have never liked starting 2nd. Once rolling I just float my way through up and down.

 

[betterthanstock]

I have big tires and start in second (empty).



For the first half-second, no throttle, then just as the engine (or transmission?) wants to make that scratchy, lugging sound, I give it gas (diesel).

The whole process takes about one and a half second, and the rpm stays around 800 by the time my foot is clear of the clutch pedal.



For a faster start, accelerate to 900-1000 rpm, and quickly, one second or so, slip the clutch as you add even more fuel. Beware of slipping the tires, especially in the rain.



As long as you slip for less than 2 seconds, and your rpm is no more than 1000, you'll never burn the clutch. How long it will last until it wears, we'll find out. I'm at 55K, with big injectors for the last 10K or so. But a normally worn clutch, replaced on time, can re-use the flywheel and pressure plate /bearings etc. An overheated, slipping clutch, driven till it won't move anymore, will cost you big $.

 

[michaelRitz]

I have a question more on the racing side though: How do you fellows that sled pull or drag race boost up at the green light(sled) or tree?? Thanks for all replys

 

[macdaddy]

4:10's and first gear launches with stock tires are out of the question.

At least with my beast.



I am sure with 3:73's, 3:55's,and or taller tires you'll have to start her in granny.



Mac

 

[MCummings]

Yall aren't gonna like the video's of my 4th gear donuts... .



How about 3,200RPM 3rd gear starts? Yah, that SB DD is hatin' life, but is very faithfull. Hasn't even whimpered once.



Merrick



Did I mention my truck is a dually... ? :-laf

 

[Smokey 01]

how you shift has a major affect on whether or not the clutch will hold. If I shift agressively my clutch will not hold in 6th with the juice on and if my clutch is hot I can slip it with just the diablo programmer. I usually let off but don't let the r's come down when I'm shifting fast and if I time it right the stocker will hold. I need to get my Con FE put in but I just can't find the time. BTW My truck has 91000 and I always take off in second and as far as I know it is still the stocker.

 

[MotleyCrueCab]

Before i had my cummins i owned a 65 stang with a pretty ****** engine and a t 10, i shift the my truck the same way..... Keep my right foot on the floor, and when it stops pulling, shift... . It might be hard on parts. . but it shure is fun. ANd i learned that getrags take a lot more arm effort to shift than a t 10... go figure...