Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) shimmed the pump plug

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear leaf springs

Status
Not open for further replies.
well like the title says is put a little shim on that plug in the front of the pump. see 95 in sig. my mods are 3k gsk boost zero plate slide forward timming is advanced(not sure how much was done when i got the truck) and i have guages(duh) well i have to say it was not the hardest thing ive done though a little tedious(sp?). what i saw is a difference but im still deciding good or bad. as of right now i still can only hit 36 psi boost i think mostly cause the clutch is slippin very severly. but i notice more smoke and the turbo seems to lag a little more though once it hits it goes. i still need to tune it i feel theres too much fuel going to it on the low end and i need to tighten up the afc wheel but ill play w/ that another day and get back to ya'll. this is the first truck i have tried it on and i am planning on at least one more truck plus maybe a couple others and when i get those results ill also post those for those who are interested. the other truck currently in mind is the 94 belonging to my cousin it is also a 175 pump and he has simalar mods the biggest difference is the clutch holds better and his turbo is a little better its an h1c. he can already build a little more boost then i and so we'll see what we can do. also i might play w/ some different thicknesses. well ill kkep ya'll posted on this and dont be afraid to ask questions.
 
the biggest problem i read about is with a shim the rack support bushing is no longer being held tight, atleast one guy on that long thread on the subject had his rack drop out of the support bushing
 
Buy the Bosch plug and do it right. I installed the plug without removing the pump. Plug cost less than $15. I ground the cover so that instead of only having a recease in it, it now has a slot to slide the old out and new in. Took less than 30 min start to finish.

Kevin
 
You're going to need a clutch that holds in order to feel the improvements. The auto trucks are the same way, you can't feel the power until it gets to the ground.
 
Extreme1 said:
You're going to need a clutch that holds in order to feel the improvements. The auto trucks are the same way, you can't feel the power until it gets to the ground.

yeah i know i need a clutch thats next on the list and its not far off.



as for the rest of ya ive heard a few and cons and am aware of the risk. i was unaware however that you could grind the relief hole to make a slot. khaines is it possible for me to get a part number from ya and maybe some pics of what you did. i didnt think the metal of the case was strong or thick enough to handle that but if i see some pics and could get a description of what all you did to acheive this that would be great thanks.
 
The Bosch part number for the Mack application is 2 423 462 000. It cost me $5 at my local Mack dealership. Once you get it you'll see the difference :) ... Good luck, marc
 
So this mod allows more rack travel for more fuel? I don't think I'm interested in a mod like that, being my '96 makes enough smoke as it is when the pedal is totally mashed. It's pretty clean until the last 5% of pedal travel, then it's a lot more smoke without any increase in power. It would seem doing this mod would mostly result in smoke instead of power.



Vaughn
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
So this mod allows more rack travel for more fuel? I don't think I'm interested in a mod like that, being my '96 makes enough smoke as it is when the pedal is totally mashed. It's pretty clean until the last 5% of pedal travel, then it's a lot more smoke without any increase in power. It would seem doing this mod would mostly result in smoke instead of power.



Vaughn

well i think untill you get another turbo or basically more air no this mod will not help you though they say that this mod alone will increase your boost. like i said in my original post i havent seen anything yet but as already mentioned i need a good clutch to be able to tell.
 
Mhannink said:
well i think untill you get another turbo or basically more air no this mod will not help you though they say that this mod alone will increase your boost. like i said in my original post i havent seen anything yet but as already mentioned i need a good clutch to be able to tell.



Got a pretty good sized turbo already (HX40 variant), and don't have that much fuel. . . it's not a case of not having enough air. I just figured it was a P-pump thing being it does it with this pump as with the original one that came on my '96 (that one did it a lot worse though, even before turning it up, so maybe it did have an issue).



Vaughn
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
Got a pretty good sized turbo already (HX40 variant), and don't have that much fuel. . . it's not a case of not having enough air. I just figured it was a P-pump thing being it does it with this pump as with the original one that came on my '96 (that one did it a lot worse though, even before turning it up, so maybe it did have an issue).



Vaughn



more rack travel increases the duration of the injection event... this is where more timing will help clean things up...



obviously, bigger/better injectors and some DV's and that kind of thing can bring in more fuel with less duration, but this is one of those mods you "gotta do" if you want all the fuel you can get :)



I was talking a turbo/turbos that could support 55+psi of boost... another 10-15lbs of boost would probably clean up that 5% smoke and then some.



also, the rack cap isn't going to do all it can till you fix the AFC ;)
 
firemanmarc said:
The Bosch part number for the Mack application is

2 423 462 000. It cost me $5 at my local Mack dealership. Once you get it you'll see the difference :) ... Good luck, marc



Bosch PN#1413462095



I got this part number 413 462 095-000 and ordered it, its sitting on the bench waiting to be installed



So what one is it????

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

TGroves said:
does anyone have any pictures of the plug and install and how to do it thanks



Check out the first picture in the thread i started here-->Mack plug



Michael
 
2095 Rack Plug Installation



Remove the intake horn - 10mm bolts and 7/16in intercooler clamp

Remove aneroid - 1/2in AFC line and 8mm bolts

Loosen 4 main pump mounting bolts - 15mm

Remove lower support bracket bolt by OPS - 10mm

Remove oil fill neck - 8mm clamp and 16mm bolt

Remove injection pump nut and washer and pull gear from taper

Slide the pump rearward, this allows access to the rack plug - 1 1/16in

Remove rack plug and sealing washer, lightly sand both sides of sealing washer

Install new rack plug with original sealing washer - 1 1/16in

Check for full rack travel and reassemble

A couple of things to note - this mod will not compliment rack travel if the AFC lever and fuel plate have not been modified - stacking sealing washers is a possibility - you will need to retime the pump after reassembly - grinding the timing cover would also be an option but I like to avoid collateral damage. If injection pump is fully removed, torque rack plug to 45ft/lbs.
 
The plug looks like the one on your pump but, convex on the outside allowing the inside to be deeper. It should say 2095 somewhere on it, are stock plug is 2090. . I still have the plug here to send you if you want it... . Marc
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top