short in electrical system

[nicks]

Hi Nick here , this is my first post so bare with me. I have several issues going on with my 06 2500,5.9,Sport,2 WD, 192K miles,stock truck
This truck has been a great vehicle since the day I picked it up NEW back in 2005 in Daytona Beach Florida it has been a Florida truck it's entire life ( no salt or
harsh environments). I do all my own work and know this truck fairly well( I least I thought I did )

I will use bullet items to make it easier to read, OK here it goes

the symptoms are :

• have a short that drains both batteries in 1 1/2 days
• truck has 2 Auto Zone batteries that were 4 years old and both batteries did not come back after trying to charge them
• when battery cables are removed and then reconnected a major arch / spark occurs
• turn key on to start and all gauges sweep ALL the way/pegged to the max and check engine light along with many of the other cluster warning lights are flashing
• cranks over fine but vehicle will not start

test/diagnosis and work I performed :

• no blown fuses check every one
• checked all battery cables with TIPM lead wire disconnected (no arching )
• checked starter solenoid and wires " " " " " " " " " " " "
• checked alt. lead wire " " " " " " " "
• checked both new batteries for voltage and load tested both OK (they are on a battery tender )
• checked TIPM ,no signs of anything burnt anywhere
• disconnected every connector in the engine compartment
• " " the 2 connectors at engine PCM/ECM than touched the power lead to the TIPM and it still arches/sparks

parts I just replaced :

• just installed 2 new group 24 marine deep cycle batteries and both batteries are good ( charged them before installing )
• Dorman TIPM correct part # that matched up to the OEM # on the org. TIPM...
• NOTE: according to tech at Dorman the TIPM did NOT have to be flashed he stated to turn the key on for 12 seconds,then off for 12 seconds,then start the engine
• new Bosh 135 amp alternator

Results :

• still significant short / arc when battery cables are disconnected and reconnected
• all gauges seem to be working OK
• NO check engine light flashing or staying on
• engine still won't start

I'm not a stranger to repairing vehicles ( I was a fleet mechanic for 15 years ) and have build street rods,owned many cars and trucks etc, but I'm over looking
something. One question that comes to mind for all of you good trouble shooters reading this thread is "what systems/components are wired directly to 12 volts without being fused / overload protection ? The size of the arch/ spark when the battery cables are reconnected would most certainly blow a fuse, not sure what the amperage draw is being I have to get a new quality multi meter.

 

[seafish]

You need to use a DVM ammeter to find the parasitic draw.

Use this excellent video as a guide--

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

 

[p-Bar]

didn't watch the video but put a meter on as this guy probably describes and start pulling fuses.

 

[PWong]

"what systems/components are wired directly to 12 volts without being fused / overload protection ?

Grid heater.
If the heater relay is defective (contacts stuck close) the heater would be ON when key OFF.

 

[PWong]

Grid heater.
If the heater relay is defective (contacts stuck close) the heater would be ON when key OFF.

If this is the case then the batteries would be drain down very fast! If it takes 1 1/2 days then it's not the heater elements stayed ON.

 

[nicks]

thanks for the reply back guy's. Were is the grid heater relay? I thought everything run's threw the TIPM ?

 

[nicks]

I have to watch the video( will have to get to it later ), but I have pulled every fuse and short is still there ( checking after each fuse is pulled ), and all the fuses are good

 

[nicks]

If the relay for the grid heater was stuck closed ( and it has power to it with the key off ) I would think that it would be melted and burnt up with the amperage that goes threw it along with the grit heater itself ?

 

[nicks]

Does anyone know where I can get a good wiring diagram/schematic for my 2006 ?

 

[PWong]

Does anyone know where I can get a good wiring diagram/schematic for my 2006 ?

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2006/docs/wd/dr/wiringdiagrams/drwdoptions.pdf

 

[PWong]

thanks for the reply back guy's. Were is the grid heater relay? I thought everything run's threw the TIPM ?

The skinny cable connected to the PS battery positive post is the cable the feed B+ power to the heater element through the relay. Try disconnect that cable and see....
Follow the skinny cable from battery positive post would lead you to the relay, somewhere near/behind the PS battery.

TIPM cannot handle the grid heater and starter circuits.

 

[PWong]

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2006/docs/wd/dr/wiringdiagrams/drwdoptions.pdf
Grid heater relay circuit is on diagram 8W-30-23.

 

[PWong]

I have to watch the video( will have to get to it later ), but I have pulled every fuse and short is still there ( checking after each fuse is pulled ), and all the fuses are good

What's the draw, how many ampere???

It's a good video. Follow the instruction closely.

 

[PWong]

Also B+ power from TIPM to ignition switch is NOT fuse protected.
So look for those circuits after ignition switch that has NO fuse protection.

 

[nicks]

Thanks a bunch, for the link for the wiring diagrams Pwong. Looking at the Aux battery (pass. side ) and according to the schematic 8W-30-23 I do not see any fusible link / hd wire from the batt. + that I can trace to the grid relay. A few other things I forgot to mention is I pulled the D/S inner wheel well tub out along with the D/S battery try assembly as well. I now have a visual of ALL the wiring going into the back of the TIPM and the harness going into the fender ...ALL looks good ( no chaffed or cut wires ). It did give me access to anthor connector mounted to the firewall ( under the wheel well tub) which runs to the A/T and back to the fuel pump ( i'm assuming ) along with poss. the rear lights, and all looks good.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Something else to check; Some time back, a member here just happened to be looking out his window one night and noticed his brake lights on. Apparently there is s situation where they intermittently activate and drain his batterys. Don't remember what the cause was.

 

[PWong]

Something else to check; Some time back, a member here just happened to be looking out his window one night and noticed his brake lights on. Apparently there is s situation where they intermittently activate and drain his batterys. Don't remember what the cause was.

When the power steering reservoir is pressurized the brake pedal would fail to return to the fully release / up position.

 

[nicks]

OK, will check it out. I did watch the video and Eric does a nice job explaining the proper way to check for a draw on the electrical system. I will have to go purchase another meter and get the amperage draw tomorrow.

Are there any other fuse boxes in the truck poss. in the interior kick panels or under the dash ?

 

[nicks]

Thanks Seafish for that video from Eric the car guy ( I meant to send this to you earlier )

 

[seafish]

Yeah... that video IS a really well done youtube vid for a change.

IIRC, earlier trucks (for example my friends '98) DID have an additional behind the driver side dash END panel, but AFAIK, no other fuse boxes on a 3rd get other then the PDC/TIPM.

Be sure to let us know what you find.