Should I buy it?

[cbunt1]

I want to put this question forth for you 1st genners, since I know virtually nothing about the 1st gen trucks (my '03 resembles the 1st gen in name and engine block, but I don't see much else the same!)



I have an oppotunity to buy a 92 3/4 ton with the CTD for a 3-digit price tag. The catch is that the truck won't start. I haven't had a chance to spend much time with it yet (too muddy to get back there) so I don't know too much. The story is that the truck ran out of fuel (turns out the lift pump quit on him) and he never has been able to start it again. I cant tell if the grid heat is working, but I know we're seeing fuel in to the injectors--so my thinking is that the injector pump is fine (or at least not trashed completely).



Right now the battery is so dead that I can't just crank on it for a while (thinking that in the local temps -- no lower than the 30-40* range) I shouldn't need grid heat or any preheating to begin with. The fuel filter and w/s are new (replaced with the lift pump).



The body is in good shape (no dings, dents, very little rust) and the interior seems sound enough.



I know it has a busted shock tower on the front end, but I don't see any significant tire wear, and he claims it holds the road OK.



The question is, since I'm getting a truck and a horse for under 4 digits, the truck doesn't run, and the horse does (I am basically getting the truck for free) -- am I going to be able to get this truck running (likelyhood) and be able to sell it without loosing any money?



I know its a vague question, but I guess what I'm really asking is what catastrophic (defined: EXPENSIVE) problems will cause a truck to shut down as though it's out of fuel? Am I correct in thinking that since I'm seeing fuel on the outbound side of the injector pump, that if I can get air into the engine, and turn it over long enough to produce heat (i. e. compression) I should be able to get it running?



Any help would be appreciated. It sounds like a bargain, but I've been burned before on 'great deals' through my own ignorance, and I'm trying to reduce the dummy factor here (my own, that is!)



Thanks

--Chris

 

[bgilbert]

I wish I could run across deals like that, I love challenges. This might be as simple as the start/run/stop solenoid at the injection pump. First make sure it has power at that solenoid. It's a big round solenoid with two wires attached to it at the rear/cab side of the inj pump. It can be removed, tested, and reinstalled without (I think) the spring inside of it, which will allow it to run, but you won't be able to turn off the truck with the ignition key. You would have to pull the manual shutdown on the pump for it to shutoff. I'd jump all over the truck. Was the owner very Cummins mechanical? One if so, they could be hiding something. Two if not, it might be something very simple, and they just don't know about the Cummins. A decent 1st gen for under a grand, sounds like a steal.

 

[Greenleaf]

Three words... DO IT!



-GL

 

[cbunt1]

Not very mechanical at all. He was trying to find the glow plugs -- someone told him it wouldn't run with bad glow plugs. Somebody's done some jerry-rig work on it though--it's fly by wire (i. e. the governor rod linkage is connected to the pump with bailing wire)



I too think it is a great deal, but I want some opinions first. If the shutoff solenoid is gone, would I see fuel at the injectors?

 

[Greenleaf]

Probably wouldn't pump any fuel if it will not "turn on" or activate.



-scott

 

[MFalkinham]

I wouldn't try too hard to get it fixed out in his field. If you manage to get it running he might change his mind or want more $$$ for it.



Do the deal, get the title, tow it out of there, and get it running someplace else. Even if you can't fix it the Cummins engine alone is worth the purchase price (assuming the block isn't cracked).



- Mike

 

[RCCola]

if its 4x4 heck yea the front end is 1300$ if 2x still well worth it

good lick and we look forward to the stories

and yes pay for it, drag it home ,them get her running,

 

[JLEONARD]

I agree with Mike... . get it towed to your place, then work on getting it running.

I would start the bleeding process over agin... look closely for leaks at fuel lines and fittings.

Then get a good battery... . hook jumper cables to your truck if you have to to get it turning over properly.

You can always give it a couple shots of WD40 to get it running... WD 40 is basically kerosene and won't hurt anything.

NO STARTER FLUID/ETHER.

 

[cbunt1]

Well, it sounds like the consensus is that I can't get hurt too bad on it.



My thinking is this: Re-Bleed the lines, charge (replace the battery) / or hook a good set of cables to my 03, and crank away.



I was wondering about the WD-40. I've used it for years on tractors, etc (without glow plugs or grid heat) but I was wondering about risks with the grid heaters (if they work, that is). I figure if it will run on wd-40 (as a test) then it should be fine on Diesel as well--even if it does require a little work.



My biggest concern is the injector pump, but I keep going back to the fact that it squirts fuel at the injectors.



I think I'll buy it. the frugal (read cheapskate) side of me says that if you can buy a registered horse and a registered truck for less than a grand, you're OK. (reminds me, I gotta be sure it's got a clear title).



Thanks for all the advice. I'll keep checking back, and post my war stories over here. Looking at this truck, I see the allure the 1st gens have for all you folks--it seems like such a simple beast, with lots of upgrade possibilities!



--Chris

 

[Greenleaf]

I don't know about the VE pumps. Never understood how that thing works anyhow... . but a VP will shoot fuel out the injection line(s) and still not run the engine when the pump has exhausted all nine lives.



-S

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Don't crank any longer than about 20 - 25 seconds at a stretch. The starter will get real hot very quickly. You can repeat this a couple 'a three times but then it's gotta sit for 5-10 minutes to cool the starter.

The only reason you'll need to crank longer is if the start/stop solenoid is pooched or if you have lost your fuel prime.

If you've lost the fuel prime you can speed up the re-prime by getting an air hose with a nozzle wrap some rags around the nozzle and stuff it into the fuel filler pipe, pressurize the system while someone cranks the starter... that'll move fuel to the injection pump quite quickly... we do it in the shop all the time when we loose a prime on a truck... works great.



pb...

 

[bgilbert]

Disconnect the power to the grid heater before spraying anything into the intake. It has two cables attached with two nuts at the rear of the intake horn/grid heater. If the dead battery in the 1st gen doesn't look 10 years old, then I'd take it out and put it on a charger, then the next morning try starting. I also wouldn't hook my mucho electrical systems 03 up to it either. Find another vehicle to jump start it if necessary.