2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Should I sell now and take a loss?

[Fordiesel69]

See specs in sig.



I did not do my homework when I bought my truck. I just wanted the CTD so bad that I left everything else out of the picture. I bought it for 4k and now have $6700 in it and have only owned 2. 5 months. I know I will never get that out of it. Will I?



I am having issues that make me not like the truck.



Fenders need replaced.

Doors need shot blased and sealed on the bottom seam.

A complete repaint.

Cold stumble / miss / smoke that I cannot fix.

Exhaust fills cab at every red light unless HVAC is in off position. No ex leaks!

Front suspension and steering still need rebuilt, shocks, etc...

Needs new cosmetics, headliner, carpet, small seat stiching, and new grill.



After all this, I could have paid a little more than double the price and got a better rust free truck. What should I do? Stop now and take a few k's loss or go deeper and who knows?

 

[ShortB]

From the sound of things, I don't think you'll get your $6700 back, but you might get close to $5000 to the right buyer. It mostly just depends on your personal finance situation since there's pros and cons to fixing it or selling it, and neither are concrete as far as $$ is concerned.

 

[bmoeller]

I took a loss on my last F250 diesel. The last 4 times I drove it, something else broke. I put $2k in it shortly after I bought it, and just nickel and dimed me to death. I said screw it, and bought the Ram, even though I had to get a loan. Best move I ever made. Been a GREAT truck.

 

[DCreed]

I would say from reading this post and looking at your sig that you're not in love with this truck and therefore it's time to break it off and get the rig of your dreams before the trans or other goes and you really take a loss. JMO.

 

[WPeschel]

If I was you I would put it on Craigslist for 6000obo for a month then make your decision... If you like the truck and plan on keeping it then it is ok in my opinion to drop some money into it... I bought my 1998 for 13k and i already dropped around 1k into it for the mods, and a used wrecked full replacement front bumper made by tough country that sells new for 1300bucks, that I am re skirting... The front end also needs a new track bar, and steering box... I have a friend that works at 4 wheel parts and he gave me a used track bar off of an 04 dodge that they lifted, now all I have to do is buy a track bar mount. . Just do a little at a time. . I have a friend that loves to work on 12valves and he does all my work if I just help him. . He also gave me a southbend FE that was not strong enough for his truck for half price. . Just remember if you add performance parts you are not increasing the value of your truck...

 

[abranz]

I had a similar experience with my 96. It required alot of work to bring it around but it is now the most dependable truck I've got period. The 06 is constantly in the dealer with check engine lights and electrical issues. I enjoy fixing up older vehicles though. I think second gens will be the most sought after pickups in history shortly, especially 12v's.

Tony

 

[Forrest Nearing]

where are you located?



the exhaust smell in the cab is going to happen with any of these trucks unless you have stacks.



I'm interested in the truck

 

[rweis]

I... ... . I think second gens will be the most sought after pickups in history shortly, especially 12v's.

Tony

I totally agree (well, maybe not in history). The 2nd gens are the last generation you can work on reasonably well (have enough room to do the work) and fairly cost effectively (mechanical injectors, etc).



Once you rebuild the fuel system from tank forward and back to tank, rebuild the auto transmission so it does not leak (ATS, DTT, SUncoast, Gorrend), and on 4x4 rebuild the front end, then you have a pretty decent truck.



Bob Weis

 

[DonTX]

I think you have to think outside the box with these. I bought mine off this forum a couple years ago now, have put little into it, drove it 30k miles, and was recently offered a couple thousand MORE than I paid for it! Was tempting, but I love this truck too much to part with it at any price!

 

[Fordiesel69]

You be the judge.



Here are the pics:

<embed src="http://p. webshots.com/flash/smallslideshow. swf" flashvars="playList=http%3A%2F%2Fcommunity. webshots.com%2Fslideshow%2Fmeta%2F562378076BmNNmb%3Finline%3Dtrue&inlineUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fcommunity. webshots.com%2FinlinePhoto%3FalbumId%3D562378076%26src%3Ds%26referPage%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fgood-times. webshots.com%2Fslideshow%2F562378076BmNNmb&postRollContent=http%3A%2F%2Fp. webshots.com%2Fflash%2Fws_postroll. swf&shareUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fgood-times. webshots.com%2Fslideshow%2F562378076BmNNmb&audio=on&audioVolume=33&autoPlay=false&transitionSpeed=5&startIndex=0&panzoom=on&deployed=true" menu="false" quality="best" width="425" height="384" name="WebshotsSlideshowPlayer"base="http%3A%2F%2Fp. webshots.com%2Fflash%2F" wmode="opaque" allowScriptAccess="always" loop="false" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http%3A%2F%2Fwww.macromedia.com%2Fgo%2Fgetflashplayer"></embed><br /><br />My 95&rsquo; Dodge Ram

 

[wilsonsh]

Don't give up too easy.

See specs in sig.



I did not do my homework when I bought my truck. I just wanted the CTD so bad that I left everything else out of the picture. I bought it for 4k and now have $6700 in it and have only owned 2. 5 months. I know I will never get that out of it. Will I?



I am having issues that make me not like the truck.



Fenders need replaced.

Doors need shot blased and sealed on the bottom seam.

A complete repaint.

Cold stumble / miss / smoke that I cannot fix.

Exhaust fills cab at every red light unless HVAC is in off position. No ex leaks!

Front suspension and steering still need rebuilt, shocks, etc...

Needs new cosmetics, headliner, carpet, small seat stiching, and new grill.



After all this, I could have paid a little more than double the price and got a better rust free truck. What should I do? Stop now and take a few k's loss or go deeper and who knows?

I guess you have to figure what it will cost you to sell your current truck and buy the newer rust free one or fix this one.



If you sell your truck now, let's say you get $5k, you are out $1700... not too bad. Now, assuming your better rust free truck is $10k... now you are into this one for $6700 more than your old one and you will still probably have to do the steering(draglinks, tie-rods, trackbar, ball-joints, steering box and whatever else... ) lets say $1500. Fix the motor... when you buy used, you inherit whatever problems they didn't tell you about $1500. Then your whatever "nickel and dimes"... $1000 (trust me, this is low. ) Now you are into a truck that looks good and will still probably cost you about $500-1000/yr (nickel and dimes):



Sell $1700

Out of pocket for good looker $5000

Steering $1500

Fix motor $1500

Nickel and dimes $1000

From today it will cost you $10,700

Not bad for a reliable good looking truck that will not depreciate very quickly... if anything hold steady at that price or even increase.



Now, if you keep the truck you are looking at paint and body work:$6k-8k... lets say $7 since it is mostly outer body. Plus motor fix... lets say $2000 total. And the steering... . $1500+. Nickel and dimes along the way... $2k.



Paint $7000

Motor $2000

Steering $1500

Nickel and dimes $2000

From today it will cost you $12,500



This is more. Some of these numbers are low or high but you gotta be honest... and expect to do some of the work yourself. Can you live with a truck that looks... not REALLY bad in my opinion for a while so you can fix the rest of it... or do you want to be done with the body/paint now? This is a fun truck to work on, and you will work on it, but the Dodge CTD cult is very strong and all the guys/gals on the forums you've found love to help! These are some of the last vehicles we may ever be able to work on!

Sorry this is so long, I was in your shoes when I bought mine on impulse and did the same math. It needs a paint job (OCD is a tough habit) and I've fixed little things on the motor and thrown money at the steering... heck, I thought about selling it when a guy took me for a ride in a CTD that was done... trust me, it's worth it! GOOD LUCK!!!

 

[CGALATE]

Your truck doesnt seem too bad. You obviously wanted an inexpensive truck. a nice looking truck will thousands more, i went the same route you did. I bought a 95' that could have been in better shape, but i got a sceamin deal and like you i wanted a CTD. My first work truck was a ford, the CTD blows it away.



I would get the engine problems taken care of and then decide how bad of a deal you got, a $7000 truck sounds good to me.

 

[WPeschel]

I guess you have to figure what it will cost you to sell your current truck and buy the newer rust free one or fix this one.



If you sell your truck now, let's say you get $5k, you are out $1700... not too bad. Now, assuming your better rust free truck is $10k... now you are into this one for $6700 more than your old one and you will still probably have to do the steering(draglinks, tie-rods, trackbar, ball-joints, steering box and whatever else... ) lets say $1500. Fix the motor... when you buy used, you inherit whatever problems they didn't tell you about $1500. Then your whatever "nickel and dimes"... $1000 (trust me, this is low. ) Now you are into a truck that looks good and will still probably cost you about $500-1000/yr (nickel and dimes):



Sell $1700

Out of pocket for good looker $5000

Steering $1500

Fix motor $1500

Nickel and dimes $1000

From today it will cost you $10,700

Not bad for a reliable good looking truck that will not depreciate very quickly... if anything hold steady at that price or even increase.



Now, if you keep the truck you are looking at paint and body work:$6k-8k... lets say $7 since it is mostly outer body. Plus motor fix... lets say $2000 total. And the steering... . $1500+. Nickel and dimes along the way... $2k.



Paint $7000

Motor $2000

Steering $1500

Nickel and dimes $2000

From today it will cost you $12,500



This is more. Some of these numbers are low or high but you gotta be honest... and expect to do some of the work yourself. Can you live with a truck that looks... not REALLY bad in my opinion for a while so you can fix the rest of it... or do you want to be done with the body/paint now? This is a fun truck to work on, and you will work on it, but the Dodge CTD cult is very strong and all the guys/gals on the forums you've found love to help! These are some of the last vehicles we may ever be able to work on!

Sorry this is so long, I was in your shoes when I bought mine on impulse and did the same math. It needs a paint job (OCD is a tough habit) and I've fixed little things on the motor and thrown money at the steering... heck, I thought about selling it when a guy took me for a ride in a CTD that was done... trust me, it's worth it! GOOD LUCK!!!

I agree I paid 13k for a rust free texas truck with high milage 212k... . The truck is almost perfect with a few small dings here and there... No rust... BUT the steering like yours is wore out and I also did not do my homework The engine is a 175 hp engine witch didnt come in the 98s. . The things I need to fix are oil pressure sending unit, heater core, steering box and pan hard... Just hang in there I would definately hang onto it and plan on keeping it FOREVER...

 

[Hammer]

Arrrrgggghhhhhhh!!!!!!.....

I know it may be a bit on the homely side but I'd keep it and redo it for a couple of reasons.



The first one would be that when I got it done I would have a truck that suits me and was built by me. I know it would take some time and work but think of where it would be at with your wants and needs added to it. To sell it now,buy another truck and then add all you want afterwards you would still be changing most of the parts that you are on the ride you have now.



The second one would be the colors. Light Aqua Metallic was a Mid Year color only(late 95,early 96) and was gone by mid year 1996 due to a "lack of interest" said Ma Mopar. When that paint is freshened up and all shined up it is one of the sweetest paints Ma Mopar had out on trucks. Numbers made were low and Sport versions with the paint were even lower.



I see your a PA owner and will offer this,think it over good before you allow your emotions to sell. I would be glad to take a road trip and help you sort it out some if you want on one of my days off before you sell it off. However,if selling it is what your inner needs have to do,let me know as I would be glad to get a person here to nurse it back to health... ... ... Andy



On Edit... .

Stumble-Air compromising the fuel system somewhere. Could be fuel line related,leaking fuel heater or lift pump,or a bad connection at the fuel tank.

Exhaust leak-Sounds like a cracked exhaust manifold to me which is common on 12v's. They usually crack on the underside where the turbo mounts or inbetween #5 and #6 cylinders. Also note the manifolds shrink and push out exhaust gaskets which will cause a leak when warm.

Front Suspension-Could be bad,but,I'd bet ball joints are ok unless the tuck was really abused. The older 12v's were not prone to failure of them due to their design. Tie rod ends and drag link,maybe I'd have to see it underneath in person.

Shocks-I am replacing mine soon due to the coating rusting and looking ugly for show season. They are Skyjacker Hydro's and are a year and a half old,if you want them pay the shipping from York,PA to your house and their yours.

 

[KevinSmith]

I'll trade you my 84 ferd witha 6. 9 in it. I would even pay for shipping cause I'm such a nice guy.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I say if it runs/drives well, just hang onto it... like someone else said, throw it on craigslist and see how it does.



the thing I really love about trucks vs. cars is if you've got some dents/dings/scratches/etc. it's acceptable... while it doesn't add value, it does add character.



but you get one little ding or scratch in a car, and it kinda kills the whole deal